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Old 04-21-2010, 01:09 AM   #31
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What paint did you use?.. cuz it going to get pretty effing hot up top
I used this header paint from the auto parts store. It's rated for 2000 degrees (Fahrenheit) when cured properly. I'll be curing it in-place, as close to their recommended procedure as I can. Obviously the areas that don't get cured from the burner heat, don't need to handle high temps anyway.

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Old 04-21-2010, 01:44 AM   #32
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I used this header paint from the auto parts store. It's rated for 2000 degrees (Fahrenheit) when cured properly. I'll be curing it in-place, as close to their recommended procedure as I can. Obviously the areas that don't get cured from the burner heat, don't need to handle high temps anyway.
Nice, that's the same paint I used on the wind screen/burner mounts on my rig. I used black. Mine have been through about 6 hours of burner operation and are holding up great! I cured mine in the oven, just because I could.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:06 PM   #33
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Nice setup. I actually drew up plans to build my stand so I could store my kegs on the bottom. The only thing that concerned me was the height. I might be reaching up and over the keggles. How's the height of the stand for you?

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Old 04-21-2010, 02:14 PM   #34
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It looks like the height of 2 kegs, plus 6 inches for burner mounts plus 3-4 inches for casters.

I'd say

24"+24"+6"+4"=58"

If the brewer is around 6 foot tall they would have no problems, well maybe stirring a mash might be tough, otherwise it seems like an acceptable height.

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Old 04-21-2010, 02:28 PM   #35
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That's damn close! The height from the floor to the top of a mounted keggle is 59". I used 5" casters. ;-)

I'm 6'3" and here is a picture with my arm extended over the mash tun on top of the stand. It's plenty low-enough to stir the mash or watch for hot break.



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Old 04-21-2010, 02:38 PM   #36
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That's damn close! The height from the floor to the top of a mounted keggle is 59". I used 5" casters. ;-)

I'm 6'3" and here is a picture with my arm extended over the mash tun on top of the stand. It's plenty low-enough to stir the mash or watch for hot break.



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That might be doable. I'm 5'10". I plan to go electric so I could eliminate 2-3" off the height for the burners and use 4" casters.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:44 PM   #37
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That might be doable. I'm 5'10". I plan to go electric so I could eliminate 2-3" off the height for the burners and use 4" casters.
Check the pics early in the thread to see where I used angle iron on the inside of lower storage rack. This saves you around 1.5" since the keggles can go in on an angle then be seated for storage.

If you save 1" on the casters, 1.5" on the lower rack, 6" without burners, you're going to be way fine.

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Old 04-21-2010, 02:50 PM   #38
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My casters are 4" tall, the stand is 21" and the kettles are 19" tall. 44" total, and I am 5'11" tall.

I like it because the valves are still within reach and I dont have to stoop, plus is it really easy to get into the kettles.

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Old 04-22-2010, 11:56 AM   #39
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How did you attach the pilot lights to the burners?

Build looks awesome. I'm closing in on finishing my single tier...I think yours has the edge.

I think I'm going to try using the 1/2" pipe going into my Honeywell valve to support it since I didn't build mounting brackets. Hopefully it'll be strong enough.

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Old 04-22-2010, 12:45 PM   #40
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How did you attach the pilot lights to the burners?
Build looks awesome. I'm closing in on finishing my single tier...I think yours has the edge.
I think I'm going to try using the 1/2" pipe going into my Honeywell valve to support it since I didn't build mounting brackets. Hopefully it'll be strong enough.
Thanks Brian! Looking forward to seeing your build thread.

To mount the pilot burners, I first straightened the L-brackets attached to them. I then fed the pilot and thermocouple protrusions up through one of the triangle-sized holes in the banjo. I marked the two bracket holes on the burner underside with a sharpie and drilled them out for two screws (note to self, replace with stainless steel). I did put rectorseal on the screws before installing them just to prevent gas leakage there. Here's a picture:



I was initially going to do the same thing, black pipe to support my valves. I wanted everything from the valve up to the burner to be rigid, and everything from the valve down to the manifold to be soft. That way the valves move with the burner height adjustment and the pilot/thermocouple lines are not being bent repeatedly. However, I quickly realized that there is no "official" way to go from black pipe NPT to the 3/8" flared orifice fitting with rigid fittings (some on this forum have done workarounds, like brazing the two together, etc but I didn't feel great about doing that). Anyway, the options for me were copper tubing union, or a flexible hose, neither of which would give me the rigid support I wanted. Thus were born, the brackets.

In case you need any, this is a good place for those flex hoses in all sorts of sizes:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/gasconnectors.html

The brackets mount to the bolt pattern that is already on the valve. Coming out the top of the valve is a brass 1/2" NPT to 3/8" flare elbow. Attaching that to the burner orifice is a 12" x 3/8" flare to 3/8" flare flex hose from PlumbingSupply.



Below the valve is the standard yellow flex hose from Lowe's that comes with a 1/2" NPT to 1/2" flare adapter.



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