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jlandin · 05-19-2010, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FenoMeno

About to start ordering my parts for your Electrical build. Now that you had a few brews under your belt, are there any easy changes you would make--different PID/valves etc?

Honestly, I've been super pleased with it all. At this point, I wouldn't change anything.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FenoMeno

Also, is your system set up for hp or lp?

My system is setup for low pressure LP (liquid propane). I'm not sure what you mean by HP (maybe you mean high pressure LP?).

Quote:

Originally Posted by FenoMeno

Finally, was there a reason you chosse the 24v system? Thanks--looks awesome!

The valves themselves are cheap and wiring/connectors are too. If ever I need to replace one, it won't hurt my wallet or feelings much. Also I like the safety aspect of the lower voltage, since they are mounted beneath pots of liquid and all.

Have fun with your build!

--
Josh

jlandin · 05-19-2010, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FenoMeno

I was considering the Auber 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller. #•Model: SYL-43X2
Thought the alarm outputs would be nice and Ramp mode for step-mashing? Did you consider this model when you made your choice?

It's my understanding that the SYL-43X2 doesn't support an on/off output mode (only PID style). It would be useful for an electric system, or with gas valves that support a range of "openness". The valves I used are either fully open, or fully closed so while the controller I used is a PID, it supports on/off mode which is required for valves like this. It's much like a fridge (or freezer) works. The compressor is either running, or not.

--
Josh

FenoMeno · 05-19-2010, 10:24 PM

ah ha, got it. thanks

Allenkr · 05-19-2010, 10:54 PM

Hello Jlandin, Love the Rig.

I am working on the plans for my own system. I am currently using a BK14 burner, and I have troubles with it icing up my 20lb propane tank. You indicated the you where going to repeat the drilling process again (in post 47). What is the drilling process and what does it do? Is the drilling what alows you to run three of these burners on one tank (post 77) when I have issues with one burner on one tank?

Tanks for any insights you can proved.

jlandin · 05-20-2010, 12:33 AM

The Banjo burners are high pressure propane burners, so the orifice holes (in the brass fitting entering the burner) are smaller. To convert these burners to low pressure propane you have to drill the holes in the orifice to be bigger. That's what I did.

I really only ever need to run 2 burners at once when I'm mashing and heating my sparge water at the same time. Even then the Mash is turned down really low so I'm not pulling a lot of propane.

If the tank is freezing up on you, others have recommended putting it in a tub of warm water.

--
Josh

Brewpatrol · 05-20-2010, 12:49 AM

Awesome rig! Do your pilot valves only work with low pressure propane? I have the same burners but was going to go with an STC valve and a pilot valve for extra safety. Looks like you bypassed having to use a solenoid valve like that of STC or Asco. Can what you did/use be done without having to convert your burners to low pressure?

jlandin · 05-20-2010, 02:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewpatrol

Awesome rig! Do your pilot valves only work with low pressure propane? I have the same burners but was going to go with an STC valve and a pilot valve for extra safety. Looks like you bypassed having to use a solenoid valve like that of STC or Asco. Can what you did/use be done without having to convert your burners to low pressure?

Thanks! Right, the Honeywell VR8200 valves that I used are only good for low pressure propane. They have an integrated safety pilot valve built into them.

--
Josh

Allenkr · 05-20-2010, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlandin

The Banjo burners are high pressure propane burners, so the orifice holes (in the brass fitting entering the burner) are smaller. To convert these burners to low pressure propane you have to drill the holes in the orifice to be bigger. That's what I did.

I really only ever need to run 2 burners at once when I'm mashing and heating my sparge water at the same time. Even then the Mash is turned down really low so I'm not pulling a lot of propane.

If the tank is freezing up on you, others have recommended putting it in a tub of warm water.

--
Josh

Thanks for the info. I think I would like to try this. what size hole did you finally drill your orifice to?

jlandin · 05-20-2010, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allenkr

Thanks for the info. I think I would like to try this. what size hole did you finally drill your orifice to?

Sorry, it seems I lost the paper listing the sizes I tried and where I ended up.

The best thing to do is to drill it one size bigger and try it until you get the flame you want. I think the orifices come with a .055 hole in them, so I'd start at a .060 and move up until you are pleased with the flame. In general you want very little orange wispy tips, and the rest of the flame blue.

--
Josh

Pombe · 05-24-2010, 04:47 AM

Hi,

I'm in the process of designing and pulling together a BOM for all materials that I will need for my Brutus 10 rig. I've determined that I'm going propane instead of electric and was just wondering if you had any feedback on your propane usage per brew session. I see you're brewing 10 gal batches which I what I am planning on doing also.

Great build, inspired me and the BOM you listed has helped greatly.

Thanks,
G