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Old 04-12-2010, 04:24 PM   #1
jlandin
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Default My new brew system, a brutus 10 with some nice modifications

Edit:

This build is complete! The final cost and parts sheet is at post #80 HERE.




Original Post:

This DIY Projects forum is dangerous I tell you!! I had a perfectly good day-tap keg setup, and now I have an 8 keg 4 tap keezer. I had a perfectly good all-grain, single tier, single pump, keggle-on-cajun-cooker-based system, and now I'm building a brutus 10 like system! SWMBO thanks you!

Ok, here goes.. I'm going to try to document this build with as much detail as possible to help others who build a similar system. If I leave something out, and you want clarification or more pictures, let me know and I'll try to accommodate. When I finally finish the build, I will post a parts list with a tally of the cost as I've done before.

Initially I thought I'd make a brutus 20 for the footprint advantage, but I make several big beers and was a bit scared of the potential limitations of CRDFM. So I decided on the brutus 10 with a few modifications to the original.

Here are some of the key features I was looking for:

- Automated temp control for HLT and direct-fired MLT.
- Ability to store the keggles inside the stand when not in use.
- Nothing extending outside of the rectangular stand frame (plumbing, control arm, etc) when not in use.
- Thermocouple auto shutoffs for the pilot and burners (thermocouple).
- Three kick a** banjo burners (BG14).
- All low pressure propane.
- Adjustable height for all burners.
- Hand-off-auto style switches for burner controls.
- Detachable control panel so I can bring it in the house when not in use (don't want it to corrode here by the beach).

The storage is key, because I want to roll the system under my workbench in the garage when not in use. I've never seen anyone on here do this! I'm generally pretty handy but had never welded before. I didn't even own a welder until this project, but I had been looking for a good excuse to get one. I picked up a good deal on a 230V Miller 175 MIG welder on craigslist and I have really enjoyed that machine!

Next up I'll post a timeline of pictures for the progress thus far.

--
Josh
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Last edited by jlandin; 05-12-2010 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Added completed image and link to cost sheet.
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Old 04-12-2010, 05:09 PM   #2
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Starting the frame... I used 1.5" mild steel square tubing.




Notched out the ends:



Top and bottom frames:

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Old 04-12-2010, 05:12 PM   #3
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Welding in the keg rests. I used 1.5" angle iron. Those too are notched out.







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Old 04-12-2010, 05:18 PM   #4
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Height check for storage of kegs inside the stand. I wanted to leave room for the burner height adjustment too.



Fittings, some McMaster, some ebay, some onlinemetals.com....



I sent the kegs off to a welder to be TIG welded. Here they are all finished:



Boiler (without its thermometer)...



That looks about right for storage... Added 5" total-lock casters..

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Old 04-12-2010, 05:24 PM   #5
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Adjustable burner rack and aluminum wind shields for the burners...







I welded stainless steel nuts to the underside of the frame (here they are just tacked) and screwed in 4 stainless steel threaded rods for adjustment...

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Old 04-12-2010, 05:29 PM   #6
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Gas manifold time...





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Old 04-12-2010, 05:43 PM   #7
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I'm using Honeywell VR8200 furnace valves with integrated pilot for my HLT and MLT. I got the following from Pexsupply the valves, thermocouples, and pilot burners. Both the pilot burners and the honeywell valves come with the LP conversion kits.

Making splash shrouds and brackets for the valves...



Mounted...







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Old 04-12-2010, 05:49 PM   #8
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Very impressive. Keep us posted on any updates!

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Old 04-12-2010, 05:53 PM   #9
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sick build...love how everything can be stored under the rig!

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Old 04-12-2010, 05:56 PM   #10
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Building the control box was fun. I got a plastic box from a friend that was used for some kind of sensors. It has a clear plastic back cover.

I order the following from Auber two PID controllers, two Panel Mount RTD connectors, and two RTD probes. I also picked up some switches from Radioshack and got some power modules from a local electronics store (not radioshack).

Designing the user interface...



Three way (hand-off-auto) switches in place, adding the pump switches...





Pump power outputs without the covers (planning to swap these with female connectors anyway)...



RTD Inputs and 24V valve control outputs...



Power in...



RTD tees (Lonnie Mac style)...



Here's the box wiring looking in through the clear back...



From left to right:
- 2 x output power modules 110V (pumps)
- 110V Terminating block (top)
- 110V to 24V Transformer, 40VA (middle)
- 24V Terminating block (bottom)
- 2 x SYL-2362 PIDs from Auber (in on/off mode)
- Input power module 110V (fused).
- The HOA switches are on either side of the transformer.

Testing...



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