Originally Posted by daveooph131
I'm getting ready to build a kegerator with the same unit...Couple of quick questions.
1) How sensitive are the coolent lines. If you knick them with the puddy knife are you ok? I mean I know you don't want to hit with the drill but...
2) Did you just measure where you drilled your initial holes in the unit, and then do the same measurment on the piece of wood so you knew where to drill?
3) Do your tower bolts run all the way into the fride or to they just run into the wood and then stop before the coolent lines?
4) Lastly, when you pour your first pint let me know, I'm wondering how many feet of beer lines I should get...so I'm curious to see how 10 ft work for ya.
Thanks for the post, inspiration for my soon to be project
1) I assume the coolant lines are aluminum, so if you were to hit them with the putty knife or any sharp knife for that matter you should be fine unless you were really putting some pressure on them. I mean, they aren't made of aluminum foil or anything, so while care should be taken, they aren't going to be punctured extremely easily.
2) Yes, first you'll have to decide where the hole under the foam insulation in the fridge will be, then you can measure your wood and top. Fortunately, the grid on the underside of the top, and the grid the top formed in the foam insulation makes it fairly easily to make the measurements. Don't get me wrong, it is difficult to be extremely precise, but if I can do it anyone can do it. I am handy, but I am no engineer.
3)The tower I purchased from Kegconnection
was supplied with screws, which aren't too long to penetrate all the way down to the coolant lines. So to answer, no I did not run the bolts/screws all the way into the interior of the fridge. It is unnecessary IMO. If you have a wood reinforcement the size I used, you will not have any trouble with stability whatsoever. My tower is very solid.
4) I will PM you in about 2.5 weeks when I pull my first pint off of this bad boy. The math says I only need 4-5' beer line (resistance) with the height of my tower, but I have heard horror stories of excessive foaming, so I went with the 10' lines as a precautionary measure. It is easier to shorten than lengthen, right? Apparently 2oz/second is the goal to achieve for the perfect pour. A well balanced system will have minimal foaming, and pour relatively quickly. the American Homebrewer's Association has a great draft beer resource which can be found here
Originally Posted by Jaybrinks
Nice Job!! I just finished my kegerator build....same fridge. Looks great! One thing I am not liking about this fridge is.......I have my OE temp controller set to 1....the lowest setting, and it is still under 30 degrees.....anyone else having this problem? I'm probably going to have to get an external temp controller
You are both lucky and cursed to have this problem, I have heard of individuals that have had problems keeping their fridge at a low enough temperature at the highest setting. It makes me wonder if at the factory, they installed the knob properly. Iis ther a possibility that it is turned all the way up, when it is actually showig a 1? Try setting it to the highest level and see if it warms up at all. Otherwise, I have all of the wiring info that you would need for a temp controller on this fridge. PM me if you need wiring info.
I have not even plugged mine in yet. No reason to use electricity unnecessarily. Having said that, I will be installing my Love TS-2nTemp controller ASAP. I special ordered the model w/the blue LED, (40 day lead time) It should ship June 30th.
But a fellow brewer has the same fridge w/picninc taps and has had not troubles whatosever.
p.s. PM me if you have any other qustions. I plan on outlining a write-up for the temp controller install.
Check out the link in my sig if you want to follow along, I update it as much as possible.