so i was going with this until this morning when my co2 tank was empty and i had beer all over the bottom. It comes out that after all that, the damn threads of the disconects were where the problem was. I remedied that with a bit of teflon tape and its sealed right up You were right also, the beer continues to absorb co2 for quite a while until its saturated (i figured that should be overwith in a few days but it took much longer)
now i just have to find out if the old weatherstripping is still magnetic. I was looking a your thread but somehow i missed the stainless addition. Very nice. Thanks for the idea!
I feel your pain. The whole loose connection thing, ya, been there. Seabee John has been there multiple times. So don't feel bad. I think it happens to everyone at one point or another. Also ya on the second part. It takes much longer than you would expect. I freaked the first time I checked a keg and cracked the CO2 and she hissed. Then it dawned on me, Bernulli ! Oh yea. LOL. Chit, that stuff I learned in college really does have a practical application. LOL. Sean
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so i ended up finding the leak when i came home again and i had beer all over the bottom of my keezer. The area around the nut didint have a proper seal so it was oozing out beer and leaking co2. Crappy design on that one i guess. I switched it to a solid one piece disconnect and everythings ok. Oddly enough, i also have pin lock kegs and from what i can tell, they leak due to poor design of the same disconnects. I may be jumping the gun but if anything touches the disconnect it will disengage and his air out of the bottom where its actually hooked in (and yes i checked and there seated properly)...im pretty sure thats not supposed to happen....pic for reference
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so i ended up finding the leak when i came home again and i had beer all over the bottom of my keezer. The area around the nut didint have a proper seal so it was oozing out beer and leaking co2. Crappy design on that one i guess. I switched it to a solid one piece disconnect and everythings ok. Oddly enough, i also have pin lock kegs and from what i can tell, they leak due to poor design of the same disconnects. I may be jumping the gun but if anything touches the disconnect it will disengage and his air out of the bottom where its actually hooked in (and yes i checked and there seated properly)...im pretty sure thats not supposed to happen....pic for reference
That nut at connection #2 above is a flare fitting. Do not use teflon tape on flare or compression nuts. When you take that nut off, is the end of the male threads rubber? If it's all metal, you need a gasket in there.
If the leak is between the disconnect and the keg post, you might have an Oring issue. I also have pinlocks and have found that the quoted #111 Oring you typically find on the forums is really mean for ball locks. There are two solutions I've found. First, the #111 size works if it's silicone. Size #112 also works well. It fits in the post groove a little loose, but when you put the disconnect on it seals well.
leak at 1 and 2. On the pinlock kegs im leaking from 1, and on my ball lock and pinlock im leaking from #2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
A couple things...
That nut at connection #2 above is a flare fitting. Do not use teflon tape on flare or compression nuts. When you take that nut off, is the end of the male threads rubber? If it's all metal, you need a gasket in there.
At first i didnt have any teflon tape and when it leaked from around the nut i added it. The tape doesnt intrude on the end where the seal is made only around the threads. It stopped leaking as far as i can tell. Theres no rubber on the head of the coupler where i screw in- only a small red peice of plastic which is integrated with the tap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
If the leak is between the disconnect and the keg post, you might have an Oring issue. I also have pinlocks and have found that the quoted #111 Oring you typically find on the forums is really mean for ball locks. There are two solutions I've found. First, the #111 size works if it's silicone. Size #112 also works well. It fits in the post groove a little loose, but when you put the disconnect on it seals well.
Paint that wood collar.
What do you mean oring? i dont see any type of o-ring located on the bottom of the disconnect- only plastic and a small black peg which sticks out....could you please elaborate? And i did int paint the collar because i chose to polyurethane it instead. PLus its sitting in my garage so im not going for aesthetics.
edit: I misread your post. I changed the orings on the posts so i doubt there leaking from that point although maybe i got the wrong size? they seem snug
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Last edited by scinerd3000; 12-23-2008 at 07:52 PM.
finally got it figured out....it was a faulty fitting. Got a new one and its solved That paint is the bomb...ive used it on EVERYTHING. Someone else on here painted there kegs
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You were right also, the beer continues to absorb co2 for quite a while until its saturated (i figured that should be overwith in a few days but it took much longer)
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