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Old 10-09-2008, 03:17 AM   #11
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you could get the foam rubber seal that people use for truck toppers. It's self adhesive on one side. It should form well and fill the gaps.
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some people will tap anything that has a hole.
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Old 10-09-2008, 06:33 AM   #12
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you could get the foam rubber seal that people use for truck toppers. It's self adhesive on one side. It should form well and fill the gaps.
that would be good if i didn't need to open the lid...I need something to seal when the lid is closed although i had it chilled down and i didnt feel cold air excaping.

On a side not i didint have the temperature wire hanging low enough so the top of the freezer was at 53 and the bottom is frozen solid. When i lowered the level of the wire it registered at 36 and im glad i didint freeze the rest of my beer....it would have been an interesting mess
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Old 10-09-2008, 02:06 PM   #13
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that would be good if i didn't need to open the lid...I need something to seal when the lid is closed although i had it chilled down and i didnt feel cold air excaping.

On a side not i didint have the temperature wire hanging low enough so the top of the freezer was at 53 and the bottom is frozen solid. When i lowered the level of the wire it registered at 36 and im glad i didint freeze the rest of my beer....it would have been an interesting mess
No you're not understanding me. The seal stuff you can get at any auto parts store and hardware store. It's about .250" thick, adhesive on only one side and is made of a soft foam (comes in a roll). It's also used as door seals.
Just cut it and stick it to the top of the wood. The stock seal on the lid will press into it and seal off. It wont stop you from opening the lid.
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Old 10-09-2008, 02:56 PM   #14
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I have a slight airgap in the front where the weatherproof rubber seal meets the wood but i dont know what to do about it but its not big at all- just not perfectly airtight like everything else. Any ideas?
I used silicon caulk on the inside of my cooler to prevent air and/or condensation from moving down the cord into the wood.

Nice project
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Old 10-09-2008, 06:35 PM   #15
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No you're not understanding me. The seal stuff you can get at any auto parts store and hardware store. It's about .250" thick, adhesive on only one side and is made of a soft foam (comes in a roll). It's also used as door seals.
Just cut it and stick it to the top of the wood. The stock seal on the lid will press into it and seal off. It wont stop you from opening the lid.
oh i understand now. Ill have to go pick some up next time i go to the store. Should work perfectly

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I used silicon caulk on the inside of my cooler to prevent air and/or condensation from moving down the cord into the wood.

Nice project
As did i my friend. I caulked the entirty of the inside but where the lid closes was where i was worried about. I tried to take a picture but it but it didint show up to well, and in fact i can barley see the gap on it but here you go.
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:02 PM   #16
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the stock seal is magnetic, thus it does not work well on wood. The foam seal should fix the problem.
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Old 10-10-2008, 01:23 AM   #17
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so i drilled for the shanks:


Shot of finished outside with taps installed. I went with the cheap 15$ micromatic faucets because although ive been told perlick is the best i couldnt warrent spending 35 bucks for a single faucet...Im a poor college student damnit!


I sanatized my keg and threw in a batch of Edworts apfelwein. Right now its sitting at 12 PSI. The Carboy in the center is my Munich Dunkel placed back in after its diacetal rest. I only have one gas line hook up so far because theres only one keg but the others are sitting to the side SOON TO BE HOOKED UP


So at this point im pretty much done. Now all i have to do is finish lagering and then use the rest of the space for more beer.
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Old 10-10-2008, 05:01 AM   #18
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I had the same problem with the tiny air gap on the front of my Kegerator. I reduced the tension on the spring that assists in opening the lid. just a little. It's got just enough pressure to hold open, but now it closes flat. Might give it a shot.
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Old 10-10-2008, 05:48 AM   #19
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I had the same problem with the tiny air gap on the front of my Kegerator. I reduced the tension on the spring that assists in opening the lid. just a little. It's got just enough pressure to hold open, but now it closes flat. Might give it a shot.
i dont think my spring is adjustable...If you look back a few pics theres a closeup of one of the hinges but everythings internal.
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Old 10-10-2008, 02:14 PM   #20
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I have a name for your keezer as it were. "The Goat Locker" This name is honorific given to the Chief's community in the Navy as the goat is the Navy's mascot. They are the backbone and one could argue the glue that binds the navy together. A fitting name for a keezer full of good beer and stenciled goats for decoration. You now only need to Paint an anchor on it an invite some Navy or Coastie Chiefs over to christen it. S.
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