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Old 01-15-2011, 04:25 PM   #1
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Default MY HLT's progress

Just wanted to show how my HLT is coming along.
My thanks to all the guys out their sharing info.













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Old 01-16-2011, 02:56 PM   #2
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Niiiice.

Do you have a SS coil to connect to those compression fittings?



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Old 01-16-2011, 03:29 PM   #3
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Nice welds!

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Old 01-16-2011, 03:36 PM   #4
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Looks fantastic!

Did you "pull" the couplings through or just make a nice tight fit up?

Ed

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Old 01-16-2011, 04:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
Niiiice.

Do you have a SS coil to connect to those compression fittings?

Yes, I am using 25' of 1/2" .020 stainless tubing for the coil. I agonized over whether to go cheaper and use copper, but after hearing about the pro's of using stainless I went with that.
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Looks fantastic!

Did you "pull" the couplings through or just make a nice tight fit up?

Ed
Ed,

I just used a step bit to get the hole close, and used a flapper wheel on an end grinder to get the fit snug enough that the coupling would stay put with out tacking. You can use a file, but power tools speed up the process.
On the half couplings I play it safe and thread a nipple with teflon tape in the coupling to make sure the coupling stays round until the welding is complete. Remember what I said about welding on small short pieces?
The teflon tape insures that the threads don't gall from the heat. Stainless steel threads are notorious for galling.
I've mentioned this in another thread. A center drill works better than a drill bit or step bit for starting a hole in stainless. I learned this from my machinist boss.
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:19 PM   #7
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Ed,

I just used a step bit to get the hole close, and used a flapper wheel on an end grinder to get the fit snug enough that the coupling would stay put with out tacking. You can use a file, but power tools speed up the process.
On the half couplings I play it safe and thread a nipple with teflon tape in the coupling to make sure the coupling stays round until the welding is complete. Remember what I said about welding on small short pieces?
The teflon tape insures that the threads don't gall from the heat. Stainless steel threads are notorious for galling.
I've mentioned this in another thread. A center drill works better than a drill bit or step bit for starting a hole in stainless. I learned this from my machinist boss.
So you used a flapper wheel small enough to fit inside the hole?

I'm familiar with galling. I had to cut a 2" plug out of a fitting when I had my kegs welded... what a pain.

I know I put WAY too much heat into the purge I made and that is probably part of why it distorted so much. But actually, it becoming kind of oval is a benefit. GreenMonti suggested I make it oval (he meant after it was welded), so it would fit the contour of a keg a little better. I didn't do it on purpose, but didn't worry too much about it. I have a lot to learn about heat distortion and working with it. I work with wood, so I'm used to material movement, but not so much while in the assembly process.

I read somewhere about heating one side of an object causing distortion. If I had pre-heated the entire purge with a propane torch prior to welding, would it have distorted less?

Ed

Edit: Sorry for the off topic post, forgot what thread I was in.
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Old 01-16-2011, 07:44 PM   #8
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The more heat you apply to a metal the more it will expand.
If the heat is not applied evenly to the entire part it will expand more in the area that the heat was applied. This is what causes distortion or warping.
In the case of welding your applying a lot of localized heat to the object, so your going to cause that area to expand, and move. The issue that you need to be aware of, is welds shrink as their cooling.
What happens is, the heat from welding causes the area to expand, you then add filler metal, and when you stop the weld and the area around it starts to cool and begin contracting. Only problem is it's hard to control the amount shrinkage when a weld cools off.
That's why it's important to control the amount of weld metal deposited. The more weld you apply the more weld mass you create, and the weld will shrink, pulling on the surrounding weld area distorting it.
This is most evident when tack welding something together, but you may have already seen this for yourself while practicing.

The answer to pre-heating the purge cup is no, it would have made matters worse. You only have to pre-heat thick metals, some alloys, and metals that are in freezing temperatures prior to welding.

These flap wheels come in various sizes

This is a common abrasive for cleaning the oxide layer off stainless prior to welding.

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Old 01-17-2011, 12:56 AM   #9
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You mentioned you're planning a ss coil. Are you planning to bend it yourself?

Ed

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Old 01-17-2011, 03:17 AM   #10
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Yes Ed, I have already coiled it.
It is approximately 10 inches in diameter.
I received in a large coil about 16 inches in diameter.
Started wrapping around a large acetylene cylinder about 12" in diameter and then moved to an Argon cylinder that is 9" in diameter.
You are advised to not and try to take it down in size too drastically all at once.
Gradually step it down in size.
I worked it by hand, although it was tough, and I had to take a break every now and then, it worked well. Wouldn't you say?





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