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Old 06-02-2012, 11:03 PM   #31
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Yep...teflon tape.

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Old 06-09-2012, 10:39 PM   #32
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OK. I just tsped my plugs and it doesn't seem like there are any leaks.

Let me ask you this.
Cranked all the way counter-clockwise gives me shut-off?
So, dialling it clockwise is opening the spund and allowing pressure to escape?
Do I have that right?

Just making sure I have the logic right, as I am going to use it next weekend.

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Old 06-10-2012, 05:16 PM   #33
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You could try it on a pressured up corny to see which way is what.

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Old 06-10-2012, 08:55 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
I think I prefer fermenting in a sanke. The cornies are just too small, my opinion. With trub loss, etc, it's less than a full keg. There's nothing at all wrong with doing it this way, mind you. Beats the crap out of siphoning. Lot's of pluses. But I think the sanke is the way to go. You can build a similar spud valve and use a keg tapper.

Very nice valves, though guys. I'll be curious to see if you don't move on to a sanke.

Cheers.
Can you point me to a diagram of a spunding valve for a sanke? That does seem the way to go to me as well...
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Old 06-10-2012, 09:14 PM   #35
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Can you point me to a diagram of a spunding valve for a sanke? That does seem the way to go to me as well...
A spunding valve is a spunding valve, so building one is the same either way. I have a couple, and I use them on both corny kegs and sankeys. To use one on a sankey, it's easiest to simply attach a spare sankey coupler, cap the liquid out port, and put the spunding valve on the gas in port. You'll need to take the little ball that acts as a check valve out of the coupler.
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:17 PM   #36
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A spunding valve is a spunding valve, so building one is the same either way. I have a couple, and I use them on both corny kegs and sankeys. To use one on a sankey, it's easiest to simply attach a spare sankey coupler, cap the liquid out port, and put the spunding valve on the gas in port. You'll need to take the little ball that acts as a check valve out of the coupler.
Thanks JuanMoore. I guess what I really meant to say is can you describe the rest of the parts to mate the valve to the keg...

You just have a new bundle of joy? Congrats if so!
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:57 PM   #37
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Thanks JuanMoore. I guess what I really meant to say is can you describe the rest of the parts to mate the valve to the keg...

You just have a new bundle of joy? Congrats if so!
Ah, gotcha. I used 1/4" flare fittings and swivel nuts like the OP. That way they can be secured to either a ball lock QD or to a 1/4" flare tailpiece for the sankeys. The flare tailpieces are really nice for being able to easily switch between cornies and sankeys. Here's what they look like-
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/SANKE...P1702C118.aspx

And yes, thank you, we just brought him home from the hospital a couple days ago.
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:58 PM   #38
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Ah, gotcha. I used 1/4" flare fittings and swivel nuts like the OP. That way they can be secured to either a ball lock QD or to a 1/4" flare tailpiece for the sankeys. The flare tailpieces are really nice for being able to easily switch between cornies and sankeys. Here's what they look like-
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/SANKE...P1702C118.aspx

And yes, thank you, we just brought him home from the hospital a couple days ago.
Congrats and I hope he sleeps through the night for ya soon!! Got 5 kids myself, youngest is 4...

I have that flare fitting for the sanke so looks like I have everything I need to make this work for either my sanke or my corny kegs. I am going to give this a try in the next couple of weeks and see how it goes. Looks like yet another improvement to my process I will be happy with ( just upgraded to a plate chiller last month and am loving it!).

Tony
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:10 PM   #39
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CS223,
I have my first pressurized ferment going (I think), but I am not seeing any pressure reading on the gauge.
I am using a two-keg setup with a quart of boiled water in the bottom of the "blow-off" keg. I removed the poppet from the "in" post on the fermenting keg and the "out" post of the blow-off keg. These are connected via the proper ball-lock QDs and a short length of clear hose.
I do get gas escaping when I hit the pressure relief valve on the blow-off keg, but not from the fermenter. I do not see any evidence of krausen in the hose, but I did use Fermcap-S in the fermenter for the first time ever.

Does it normally take a while to get pressure to read, or do I have a problem? I had tested the setup prior to "going live" with it and had the valve/gauge set to 12.5# from a spare leg off my CO2 regulator.

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Old 07-03-2012, 01:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High_Noonan View Post
CS223,
I have my first pressurized ferment going (I think), but I am not seeing any pressure reading on the gauge.
I am using a two-keg setup with a quart of boiled water in the bottom of the "blow-off" keg. I removed the poppet from the "in" post on the fermenting keg and the "out" post of the blow-off keg. These are connected via the proper ball-lock QDs and a short length of clear hose.
I do get gas escaping when I hit the pressure relief valve on the blow-off keg, but not from the fermenter. I do not see any evidence of krausen in the hose, but I did use Fermcap-S in the fermenter for the first time ever.

Does it normally take a while to get pressure to read, or do I have a problem? I had tested the setup prior to "going live" with it and had the valve/gauge set to 12.5# from a spare leg off my CO2 regulator.
With that much volume to pressurize, it's probably going to take a while. I set my valve to 5 PSI on an empty corney then put it on the fermenter. I just pitched some Notty on a Centennial Blonde now sitting @ 65F and it hadn't yet hit 5 PSI after 24 hours, the needle moved off the peg though. That's without a blow-off keg. It's going to depend on how fast your fermentation kicks in, and the blow-off keg is quite a volume to pressurize. I wouldn't sweat it.

One thing I might have done differently was to leave the poppet in the fermenter, that way once you were certain after a couple days that there was no krausen leaving the keg, you could move the valve directly to the fermenter. I'd be a little concerned that there would be insufficient pressure to carb with using a blow off keg. Lots of variables though. You want to crank up the pressure when you get to within 4-6 points of FG based on the carb chart. You can leave it set at a lower pressure until you reach that point.

On the same note, you can plumb it it so your fermenter self-racks itself to the secondary. I've seen it mentioned elsewhere in a thread, I don't know how much that would gain in the way of leaving trub behind. I haven't tried it, I just cold crash and counter pressure rack to the serving keg.

Think I'm going to try shaking the keg, tilt it in the keezer so the OUT port is down, cold crash and then rack to the serving keg. I think if I do it this way, I won't have to toss as much beer when I transfer because the cake will be away from the dip tube. I didn't bother to bend my dip tubes.
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