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Old 03-31-2012, 01:42 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post
Yes they are.



It's supposedly best to keep the pressure under 15psi until after the majority of fermentation has occurred. Yeast are believed to start doing strange things at higher pressures. It's near impossible to set the pressure on my spunding valve accurately until there's pressure present, but using a CO2 tank to give it an initial blast of pressure a little higher than my desired fermentation pressure allows me to dial it down to right where I want it. This also helps make sure the lid is fully seated when using a corny keg.
The only thing keeping me from going too low is paranoia of a blow out. I would hate to ruin my brand new gauge and valve. This batch I'm brewing tonight involves a few new toys, one being the spunding and the others a new wort chiller and a kettle valve with a filter. So as long as it can be drank, I'll live with a little funkyness from this experimental batch.


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Old 04-02-2012, 01:15 AM   #12
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Seems to be doing the job quite well. It appears that one click on the knob equates to 1 psi increase or reduction.



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Old 04-02-2012, 01:59 AM   #13
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This looks like it would be neat to try, to have carbonated beer when its finished fermenting is a nice bonus.

I suppose if you were going to go strait from the cooler into the keg, it would be possible to use oxygen to oxygenate the wart, set the initial pressure to seal the keg and your starting pressure for the spudding valve. Multitasking

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Old 04-02-2012, 11:44 PM   #14
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My version of the "spudding valve" Grainger had all the parts in stock...except for the keg attachment.







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Old 04-03-2012, 02:41 AM   #15
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My version of the "spudding valve" Grainger had all the parts in stock...except for the keg attachment.
At what point (attenuation?) do you start cranking the pressure up for carbonation? I'm stuck with a swamp cooler on this batch but I did pick up a 5cu/ft freezer today for a keezer build. If I recall from the thread, you really have to cool it in the 40's to get volume of CO2 with a reasonable pressure. I think I printed out the chart from that thread and have it somewhere.
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:18 AM   #16
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[QUOTE=CS223;3957057...but I did pick up a 5cu/ft freezer today for a keezer build...[/QUOTE]

Hahaha...didn't take long.

What did you throw out to make room?

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Old 04-03-2012, 12:12 PM   #17
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My version of the "spudding valve" Grainger had all the parts in stock...except for the keg attachment.
I got mine at grainger as well, and except for the tee and the hose length, it's basically the same as yours. Funny gauge on the side of the valve though
. At 30 on the valve it reads about 7 on my real pressure gauge. I also found that the valve gauge was not constant either. Yesterday I had no hissing at all after 2 days and thought that fermentation stopped early, so I unplugged the device for an hour and plugged it back in, and sure enough the pressure went up so I guess I'm good.
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Old 04-03-2012, 01:57 PM   #18
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. At 30 on the valve it reads about 7 on my real pressure gauger. I also found that the valve gauger was not constant either. Yesterday I had no hissing at all after 2 days and thought that fermentation stopped early, so I unplugged the device for an hour and plugged it back in, and sure enough the pressure went up so I guess I'm good.
Noticed the same thing I hooked up my co. bottle to test it initially on an empty keg think it's going to take some messing with to get set up accurately.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:45 PM   #19
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Here's a link to an article describing how to build and use a closed fermentation system. It includes directions on using 2 corny's to pressure transfer after fermentation....basically your beer never sees O2 or the light of day after being pitched...until of course, you drink it!!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7125050/beer/Closed-Pressurized-Fermenatation.pdf

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Old 04-27-2012, 04:40 AM   #20
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Those of you fermenting under pressure in a corny: what size batches are you doing?



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