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Old 03-30-2012, 04:08 PM   #1
CS223
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Default My corny spunding valve build

ETA:
The discussion started by WortMonger regarding using the spunding valve. My main interest is in using it to carbonate in the keg during fermentation. According to the Wiki pressure fermenting apparently reduces fusel alcohols and esters and hastens the fermentation and reduces the krausen height which is a plus when fermenting 5 gal. in a corny. It's also supposed to give a clearer beer and allow you to ferment at higher temperatures which is a plus for me in FL since at the moment I don't have secondary refrigeration. I'll have to (counter pressure) bottle from the corny. Quite a bit of information to wrap my head around in the thread, I'm still an amateur & new to brewing.


Based on muse435's build using the following parts:

Ball lock Gas Disconnect Item #5120 $5.99

1/4"FFL to 1/4"MPT fitting Item #S6078 $6.99

Norgren Pressure relief Valve $22.44

Norgren Spec Sheet

The Ashcroft gauge came from Ebay $7.87 delivered.

The Norgren valve has 1/4" NPT female inlet & outlets and it has two 1/8" NPT female gauge ports which can also be used for attaching additional kegs to the same spunding valve with the addition of check valves. Two socket head plugs are included with the valve to plug the gauge ports if they aren't used. The valve disassembles without tools for cleaning. The adjustment knob is like that on the current Tap-Rite regulators, pull out to adjust, push in to lock.





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Last edited by CS223; 09-28-2012 at 08:12 PM. Reason: Added link to WortMongers thread. Updated link
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:35 PM   #2
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Outstanding !

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Old 03-30-2012, 04:53 PM   #3
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Is this for applying a little pressure during primary?

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Old 03-30-2012, 06:17 PM   #4
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That's a pretty heavy duty valve, hopefully not too heavy duty. It says it maxes out at 125 cu ft/ min and operates at between 5 and 125 psi. I made one too. I used about 5 feet of 5/16" tubing though. I don't want to use a blow off setup if I can avoid it. I used a 1-100 psi relief valve. The only thing that concerns me is how much relief it gives each time. When I was testing it on a primed keg, one keg pressure dropped to 0 while I was fooling around. I guess I won't know until I put it to the real test.

OP, what pressure do you plan to set it at?

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Old 03-30-2012, 06:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lud View Post
Is this for applying a little pressure during primary?
I had to look it up, myself. It's to adjust/release pressure during a pressurized secondary fermentation. See this link: http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-...ate-in-the-keg
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:23 PM   #6
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They're also fantastic for transferring between kegs under counter-pressure.

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Old 03-30-2012, 09:12 PM   #7
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Thanks for posting, I am very interested to see how it works for you.

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Old 03-30-2012, 11:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badbrew View Post
That's a pretty heavy duty valve, hopefully not too heavy duty. It says it maxes out at 125 cu ft/ min and operates at between 5 and 125 psi. I made one too. I used about 5 feet of 5/16" tubing though. I don't want to use a blow off setup if I can avoid it. I used a 1-100 psi relief valve. The only thing that concerns me is how much relief it gives each time. When I was testing it on a primed keg, one keg pressure dropped to 0 while I was fooling around. I guess I won't know until I put it to the real test.

OP, what pressure do you plan to set it at?
I added the spec sheet link for the valve. Folks are using another lower cost valve with success, the Norgren is middle of the road cost wise with the valve from McMaster-Carr being the most expensive used for the application.

I plan to start at 5psi then bump it up after the vigorous fermentation is over and after checking the attenuation. How high will depend on on the temperature I'm able to maintain with a swamp cooler & the amount of CO2 required to carbonate. I might stick a hose barb & hose on the outlet and stick it in a bottle of sanitizer to gauge the amount of CO2 coming out. Debating on using a secondary keg. I've had the valve apart, nothing special about it, easy enough to clean if it gets gunked up. I'm thinking of tilting the corny during initial fermentation to possibly help with keeping the krasen out of the valve and also to let the bulk of the trub settle away from the dip tube. Don't know if either will work, like I said I'm still an amateur. If krausen becomes a problem then I might do the two corny thing.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:01 AM   #9
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I have that valve in your link. As for krausen, use ferm cap as I plan to if you are doing 5 gal batches. I plan to start with 5 drops. As for pressure, I'm thinking whatever the lowest setting I can get to start with and then after 24 hours adjust if hissing along. I think I might try 20 psi and then ramp it to 30 at the last 0.01 left in gravity.

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Old 03-31-2012, 08:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfman_48442 View Post
They're also fantastic for transferring between kegs under counter-pressure.
Yes they are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by badbrew View Post
As for pressure, I'm thinking whatever the lowest setting I can get to start with and then after 24 hours adjust if hissing along. I think I might try 20 psi and then ramp it to 30 at the last 0.01 left in gravity.
It's supposedly best to keep the pressure under 15psi until after the majority of fermentation has occurred. Yeast are believed to start doing strange things at higher pressures. It's near impossible to set the pressure on my spunding valve accurately until there's pressure present, but using a CO2 tank to give it an initial blast of pressure a little higher than my desired fermentation pressure allows me to dial it down to right where I want it. This also helps make sure the lid is fully seated when using a corny keg.
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