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Old 07-14-2012, 02:34 AM   #11
day_trippr
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In the original post, kyle0226 explained he positioned the manifold up-side-down to make the slits visible...

Cheers!

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Old 07-14-2012, 03:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
In the original post, kyle0226 explained he positioned the manifold up-side-down to make the slits visible...

Cheers!
You, kind sir, are correct. I should have read the post more closely. Mark
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:51 AM   #13
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Nice job on the manifold. I like the spacing on the the cuts for draining the grain bed. You said that you made the manifold so that it can be disassembled for cleaning. If this is the case, I am sure that this won't be difficult to accomplish; I would recommend that you assemble your manifold with the slots on the bottom side closer to the cooler. I would imagine that you will have less opportunity for your mash grain to plug the slots, and you may also be able to drain more wort from the mash tun. I think that is what I would do. Great job. Mark
I believe his original post mentions that he turned the manifold upside down for the pictures. : )
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:08 PM   #14
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Did you have any issues with not soldering the joints? I would think you might be a loss of suction from all of the areas of the manifold. Copper doesn't generally press-fit very well together, does it?

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Old 07-24-2012, 07:56 PM   #15
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Did you have any issues with not soldering the joints? I would think you might be a loss of suction from all of the areas of the manifold. Copper doesn't generally press-fit very well together, does it?
I strongly suggest not soldering, I have not had any problems, and it works great. Once you disassemble the manifold for the first time cleaning you'll understand why. Logic tells me that holes don't let in nearly as much funk compared to slits and there was a fair bit of grain particulate.

I used a file to smooth the pipe ends, which is enough to make for an easy slip-fit. Be careful not to smash the piping out of round and you should be fine. All you want is a fit where it won't fall apart if smacked by a mash paddle. Suction is not a concern, because there are holes/slits all over the pipes.

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Old 07-24-2012, 08:28 PM   #16
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If you don't mind me asking you both, what route did you go with the bulkhead fittings? I'm getting set to purchase this cooler shortly and while I won't be going the manifold route (SS braid w/a slitted copper pipe insert), I'm working around the fittings and trying to get a good handle on what goes well with the 70q Xtreme.

Any info you guys can provide would be swell. Thanks!

And just out of curiosity - Toneus, what were the sizes/lengths you used for your copper manifold?
I followed the same basic approach of the 10 Gallon Mash Tun thread. Basically, a value, SS washers, pipe nipple, rubber washers, some plumbers rope, more SS washers, and a Shark fitting pipe to slip. I can get more details for these, but the delay in my reply might have come too late for you builds.

The copper is all 1/2 inch (NOT Soft Copper which is more flexible).

I drilled my copper because I felt that cutting it would weaken it too much. The pipes in my manifold still have almost all of their strength. I can be as rough with the sections as I would like.

I drilled using an X like pattern. I place my holes on the sides when assembled. If you think of a clock as you're looking at the end of the pipe. I drilled through the sides at 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, and the other axis is from 8 o'clock to 2 o'clock on the dial.

Pieces used in my maifold
(1) 1" straight - Connects manifold to Shark Fitting
(1) Tee joint
(2) 2 1/8" straights
(4) 90 degree elbows
(2) 17 3/8" long straights
(1) 5 1/8" straight

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Old 07-28-2012, 10:14 PM   #17
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"I like your setup but was concerned about loosing wart with the raised elbow, so I went a little different on the bottom manifold layout

The T coupler takes care of the angle while keeping the manifold on the bottom."


[/ATTACH]
Great Job, Tony. I wasn't concerned about losing wort with the raised elbow due to establishing a prime. Works just as good as my dip tube on my keggle. To increase the pressure further I also use a pump to vorlauf and collect my wort. I considered a T, but figured I could double the collection volume with the H. More importantly it also prevents pooling of the mash due to the extra two pipes of egress. So far I have had about 4 brews with the mash tun and have loved the results. No stuck sparges, even with a 1/4 wheat grain bill and no rice hulls with my valve wide open (just to test.)
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:20 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Grasslands View Post
If you don't mind me asking you both, what route did you go with the bulkhead fittings? I'm getting set to purchase this cooler shortly and while I won't be going the manifold route (SS braid w/a slitted copper pipe insert), I'm working around the fittings and trying to get a good handle on what goes well with the 70q Xtreme.

Any info you guys can provide would be swell. Thanks!

And just out of curiosity - Toneus, what were the sizes/lengths you used for your copper manifold?
I used the same weldless valve kit I used on my 10 gallon igloo.
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:32 PM   #19
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Did you have any issues with not soldering the joints? I would think you might be a loss of suction from all of the areas of the manifold. Copper doesn't generally press-fit very well together, does it?
The only problem I have had has been with the top piece of the sparge arm. It seems the 1/2" hose puts a little too much pressure on it and forces it out (disconnects) unless there is compression from the cooler's lid closing on top of it.

The mash manifold on the bottom hasn't given me any problems yet, but eventually I will solder some of the pieces on each end. Since I have four points of contact with the cooler and the manifold, that only fits if it's very snug, compression has been all that I have needed.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:53 PM   #20
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Hi, old thread I know but in case anyone is still listening in to this figured I would post my question anyway.

So I have the same cooler conversion but made the sparge arm and manifold from CPVC.

At low flow coming from the HLT to the sparge arm it seems the water only come out of the holes in my middle pipe of the sparge arm. I can only get it to drip through holes in the other 2 pipes if I turn flow rate up really high (too high for sparging). Any suggestions? Should I recut the middle pipe and put less holes in it?

I dont suppose it really matters as all im after is a constant replenishment of water to keep it 1-2" above grain, right? But it would look nicer coming out of all pipes and holes....

Thanks
Ayup!

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