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kyle0226 03-17-2012 06:07 PM

My coleman 70 quart extreme copper mash tun
 
4 Attachment(s)
This is the mash tun build I just completed. I used the 70 quart extreme coleman cooler. I needed a bigger mash tun for bigger 10 gallon beers. I did not solder the parts for easy cleaning. My pipes are 2 1/2 inches apart and 1 1/2 inches from the wall. The slits are 1/2 inch apart that I cut with a dremel. The stationary sparge arm is comprised of small holes I drilled. I got the info from this website so thought I'd share. I put the copper manifold upside down so you could see the slits.

worksnorth 03-17-2012 09:57 PM

This is totally awesome and it looks fantastic!!!! Very nicely done! I would love to see this in action! I like it so much if I go to a square cooler I'm gonna copy this!
I've a question, cause I'm the curious sort: I'm wondering if on the bottom manifold where you are drawing off the wort, if you could have taken it where you tie the two sides together instead of where you t'd off? Could you have t'd off there in the middle or would that have messed up your spacing?
It looks really really good though, hope it works perfectly?

tulsabrewdaddy 03-18-2012 12:24 AM

I'm about to make slits in my copper manifold but having a hard time determining the best way to do it, how did you do yours?

kyle0226 03-18-2012 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by worksnorth (Post 3903214)
This is totally awesome and it looks fantastic!!!! Very nicely done! I would love to see this in action! I like it so much if I go to a square cooler I'm gonna copy this!
I've a question, cause I'm the curious sort: I'm wondering if on the bottom manifold where you are drawing off the wort, if you could have taken it where you tie the two sides together instead of where you t'd off? Could you have t'd off there in the middle or would that have messed up your spacing?
It looks really really good though, hope it works perfectly?

Yep, it would have messed up my spacing. I tried to stay true to Palmer's recommendation of 2-3 inches apart for pipe spacing and half that distance to the wall. I also wanted the pipe spacing to be an equal distance. Branching off the one pipe was the only way to keep the pipe spacing to a minimum. I put the H in to give the wort a more direct route out of the mash tun.

kyle0226 03-18-2012 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tulsabrewdaddy (Post 3903530)
I'm about to make slits in my copper manifold but having a hard time determining the best way to do it, how did you do yours?

I used a dry erase marker to mark every half inch and a dremel to make my cuts. The dremel worked great. I made sure to hinge my palm on the copper pipe when making my cuts to make the slits as narrow as possible. I had copper dust all over the place and used eye and respiratory protection. Cleaning the manifold was a chore when I was all done. I recirculated hot PBW for about an hour, rinsed, soaked in star san, then rinsed again, taking it apart several times in the process.

worksnorth 03-18-2012 01:48 AM

Very nice job

Toneus 06-18-2012 04:39 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Kyle,

Thanks for turning me on to the 70 Qt Coleman, I really like this cooler as a Mash Tun. The flat bottom, and low drain really separates this cooler from many of the others out there. I made one of the 10 Home Depot Orange cooler conversions, but I quickly outgrew it with 10 Gallon batches, and was in need of a larger Mash Tun. I also wanted to switch from the braided hose to copper on this one. I have had an almost stuck sparge with a wheat on a braided line manifold.

I like your setup but was concerned about loosing wart with the raised elbow, so I went a little different on the bottom manifold layout. I used a Shark fitting to attach the copper. The slip attachment of the Shark fitting allows for a slight angle in the connection, that combined with a small copper extension allows for the manifold to connect in almost straight-line to the drain. The T coupler takes care of the angle while keeping the manifold on the bottom.

Like you, the slip-fit assembly works great, easy to cleaning. My manifold holes were drilled using a drill press, so it wasn't so tedious, just time consuming. I put the holes laterally so that I have a solid bottom channel inside the pipe for the wart to outflow easier. I noticed better flow rates than with my 5gallon braided line tun. I haven't mashed a wheat in this one yet, so more holes may be required, but I'm quite happy with the performance so far.

I really like your sparge manifold idea. I'll have to play with that as I'm still using a layer of aluminum foil to distribute the HL.

Again thanks for the ideas. Cheers,

Tony

Attachment 65295

Attachment 65296

Attachment 65297

Grasslands 07-13-2012 08:08 PM

If you don't mind me asking you both, what route did you go with the bulkhead fittings? I'm getting set to purchase this cooler shortly and while I won't be going the manifold route (SS braid w/a slitted copper pipe insert), I'm working around the fittings and trying to get a good handle on what goes well with the 70q Xtreme.

Any info you guys can provide would be swell. Thanks!

And just out of curiosity - Toneus, what were the sizes/lengths you used for your copper manifold?

garcara 07-13-2012 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grasslands (Post 4249467)
If you don't mind me asking you both, what route did you go with the bulkhead fittings? I'm getting set to purchase this cooler shortly and while I won't be going the manifold route (SS braid w/a slitted copper pipe insert), I'm working around the fittings and trying to get a good handle on what goes well with the 70q Xtreme.

Any info you guys can provide would be swell. Thanks!

And just out of curiosity - Toneus, what were the sizes/lengths you used for your copper manifold?

I'm interested in this as well. I just got my cooler yesterday and plan on doing my build Sunday.

LuiInIdaho 07-14-2012 02:26 AM

Nice job on the manifold. I like the spacing on the the cuts for draining the grain bed. You said that you made the manifold so that it can be disassembled for cleaning. If this is the case, I am sure that this won't be difficult to accomplish; I would recommend that you assemble your manifold with the slots on the bottom side closer to the cooler. I would imagine that you will have less opportunity for your mash grain to plug the slots, and you may also be able to drain more wort from the mash tun. I think that is what I would do. Great job. Mark


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