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Simphoto02 · 08-17-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sawdustguy

Your system looks very nice but I do have three questions. Are your thermocouples or RTD's mounted out on the end after the valve and the tee?
If that is true do you get accurate temp readings of what is in the keggle? The second question I have is I see you have the sensors plugged into a nice connector on your control panel. Are the connectors designed for the sensors? Lastly, are you using the S8610U intermittent pilot gas valves?

First question: Yes they are AFTER the ball valves, for now. I might move the ball valves to before the Triclamp fitting and after the RTD's. In discussing the set-up with Kladue i determined that this set-up might be good since we have the Gas Valves and modules set-up to run on manual for the initial heat up, then switch to "Auto" and open the valves and start re-circulating for some very accurate readings and do final adjustments to the temp with the PIDS.

Second Question: The connectors for the probes on the control panels are Re-Purposed CB mic plugs. Larger versions of the ones from Auber. Seamed to make sense and work like a champ. The PIDS read them and LOVE em.

Last question: Yes, that is what makes this whole system so freaking cool. that think will do it all, might even drink the beer.

Like I said, just preliminary testing so far but ALL worked great.

Brewme · 08-17-2009, 10:20 PM

How did you attach the heat shields? It looks like they are just attached with a bolt and nut and fit tight around the burner.

Any issues with using steel sheet?

Simphoto02 · 08-18-2009, 12:09 AM

Not that detailed. I just cut the depth, formed a circle and dropped them in, once in I clamped with vise locked and then drilled and riveted. Not attached by anything but gravity. No need for anything else. where the hell are they gonna go? No real special engineering here

Brewme · 08-18-2009, 01:52 AM

Going on my two burners. Should help with heat loss and keep from melting my valves.

Simphoto02 · 08-18-2009, 11:23 AM

The other good aspect of the heat shields are the Low pressure hurricane burners really like the wind shield. It also benefits in containing the gas from the burners and much quicker ignition from the pilot lights.

Brewme · 08-18-2009, 02:36 PM

I use high pressure propane and each jet burner is about 125 BTU's! Anyone think I will have issues with this method? I am planning on picking up some sheet metal today after work.

Simphoto02 · 08-24-2009, 12:49 PM

I am getting close to an actual full water test. I have the control panel all wired and ready. I am waiting for a couple more barbed fittings for my hoses. all the gas is plumbed and sealed and works great.

Decided to go with off the shelf 12" dia. lids instead of working with the old cut-outs. Started to do a full water test this weekend but discovered that one of the RTD probes was defective and throwing false readings. Called Abuer Inst. and discussed it with them. This was the second malfunction of the 4" RTD Liquid Tight QD probes and I asked them to send me the 2" versions. The customer service from them has been good. I unfortunatl;y was not able to get them in time for a weekend test run.

The probes should be here today. Once the barbs fittings show up we are going to get rolling. Pictures coming soon.

Snake10 · 08-25-2009, 02:09 AM

Simphoto,
I initially put rings around my banjos, it worked great right up until I put my keggles onto the stand . The keg acted like a lid and contained the gases. The flame was disrupted bigtime and just swirled underneath the keg. It licked my frame and screwed it up. I fixed it by raising my kegs up and allowing them to exhaust.

I would test just one burner and keg first that way you just screw up one area of your frame. Anyway, I hope none of this happens and your machine passes your test with flying colors.
Snake10

Simphoto02 · 08-25-2009, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snake10

Simphoto,
I initially put rings around my banjos, it worked great right up until I put my keggles onto the stand . The keg acted like a lid and contained the gases. The flame was disrupted bigtime and just swirled underneath the keg. It licked my frame and screwed it up. I fixed it by raising my kegs up and allowing them to exhaust.

I would test just one burner and keg first that way you just screw up one area of your frame. Anyway, I hope none of this happens and your machine passes your test with flying colors.
Snake10

I thought of all that when I made the rings. They do not go all the way up to the bottom of the keggles. It has about two to three inches to the bottom of the keggles.

The burners are not "Banjo" burners in that they are not high pressure. They are Low Pressure hurricane burners. They all seam to LOVE the rings because they do cut down, by a huge amount the cross breeze that can mess with the flames.

But I will let you know. Plan a test burn this week.

Simphoto02 · 08-29-2009, 01:28 PM

Well I am in the water test stages. During the first test I discovered the pitfalls of running my wires through the frame with the burner configuration I have.

Recap:

Frame made of 2x2x1/8 mild steel. The burners are hurricane burners.

Discovered that the direct connection of the burners to the upper frame allows for a much higher heat transfer to the frame.
Melted the insulation on a couple of wires. Luckily i discovered it before any shorts.

Re-wired and all is well, KIND OF.

Using 2 Honeywell Y8610U. Intermittent gas flow valves with pilot lights with Honeywell control modules.

Problem I am having is this...

I fill the keggles with 8-9 gallons of water. no leaks thank god... Plug in the RTD leads. Hit the main power switch. Beast comes to life. PIDS glow and all is WAY COOL!!

Throw the switch to the HLT gas valve to auto, Pilot sparks and lights. Valve clicks open and feeds gas to the burner, PRESTO I am cooking water.
Open the ball valves and prime the march pumps and the recirc begins. water temp comes up and all is way cool.

Same procedure for the MT. After a minute i notice the PID is flashing off and back on again which is causing the module to malfunction shutting off the gas and killing the burner. After as second or two the PID comes back to life and fires the pilot then the burner. Then dies again. I figure OKAY a bad PID. No problem get another one and lets rock.

Then after a home brew and sitting there watching the HLT continue to work properly. and VERY puzzled, The HLT hits a test temp of 150*f and shuts down just as it is supposed to do. I am VERY excited now. Pump still going on the HLT Temp stays at 150-151 FOR EVER it seemed. (I liked this)

I think HEY lets try the MT again. So I fire it up and it comes to life at 90*f and runs perfectly for about 10 minutes. The HLT drops to 149*f No Problems. No flashing PID, No flame out, PERFECTLY.

UNTILL, you guessed it, the HLT drops below 148*f and the PID calls for heat and the gas valve fires the pilot light and then the burner. Right on que, the MT PID and gas valve go into vapor lock and I have to shut it down.

I am VERY concerned at this point.

HLT: Works PERFECTLY, PEROID
MT: Works perfectly as long as the HLT burner is not running. With the HLT running PERFECTLY it has an attitude display.

What the hell is going on here?

What I know:
All is wired correctly
No Shorts during the melt down.
When each is fired individually they work perfectly.
When are fired together, the HLT continues to work perfectly and the MT has a fit.
Burners are running at MAYBE 20%, not throttled all the way up by any means.

Can anybody please give me some ideas?

I was thinking that the gas is low and thus causing the gas valve, which monitors pressure and will shut down if it is too low, to malfunction and cause the problem. but why just the MT and not both? Is it that simple? can the "Down Stream" burner be affected this easily?

I have ONE transformer to power both modules and PIDS and gas valves. MORE than enough power to cover all that. It acts like a power failure, but again why not BOTH? Why just the MT set-up?

Sorry for the book here

Please help.

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