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03-25-2011, 04:42 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,519
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bsquared
I have a DIY idea for a keg washer I might mock up this weekend. I have a keg I fermented in I want to wash and one I need to take the speer out of that will need to be washed + a bunch of Cornys and carboys.
basically the idea is to put a spray nozzle on to a carboy brush.I'll let you know how it works.
also the pressure washes idea is a good one. everyone needs a pressure washer...right
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Please do and I might have a lead on some more sankes for cheap if you're interested.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'm a fan of "getting it in the can"!
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03-25-2011, 04:48 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,616
Liked 27 Times on 25 Posts Likes Given: 8
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Yes definitely, till I scrape enough together to get my BRWHEMOTH, I'll like to be using the keg for ten gallon batches. so far I have 2 but Id like some more.
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03-25-2011, 06:47 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardHatPat
I have the same cooler, and from what I understand you may want to modify your manifold to prevent channeling. If you sparge in any method other than batch, with your manifold up against the sides of the cooler like that, you will create channeling and miss out on a lot of sugars.
The goal is to have the manifold equidistant from the walls and itself, in order to pick up sugars as evenly as possible.
Thanks for the heads up, I wouldn't have though of that. I'm currently planning on batch sparging so channelling shouldn't be an issue. Since I'm not soldering the whole manifold together at this point, I'll be able to easily modify the design later should I switch over.
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You'll get a better efficiency if you shorten the cross pieces of your manifold just an inch or two, even if you're batch sparging. The water will flow more evenly through the whole grain bed and extract more of that sweet sweet nectar from every bit of grain.
John Palmer did a schematic of it here, http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-2.html
a great link I wish I woulda read before I built mine.
Also there's no reason to ever solder the manifold togeather since the goal is not to have it water tight (plus it'll be easier to clean down the road)
Can't wait for the fermentaion chamber build
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03-25-2011, 08:35 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,519
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40Below
You'll get a better efficiency if you shorten the cross pieces of your manifold just an inch or two, even if you're batch sparging. The water will flow more evenly through the whole grain bed and extract more of that sweet sweet nectar from every bit of grain.
John Palmer did a schematic of it here, http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-2.html
a great link I wish I woulda read before I built mine.
Also there's no reason to ever solder the manifold togeather since the goal is not to have it water tight (plus it'll be easier to clean down the road)
Can't wait for the fermentaion chamber build
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It's not too late to shorten it, so I will do that. Thanks for the link! The only reason I wanted to solder some of it was to not have 30 pieces of copper to track down on a brew day 
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'm a fan of "getting it in the can"!
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03-26-2011, 07:03 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,519
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Updated with pics of the mounted chiller! So close now 
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'm a fan of "getting it in the can"!
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04-04-2011, 01:31 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,519
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Updated post #3 with pics of the fermentation chamber in progress!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'm a fan of "getting it in the can"!
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04-14-2011, 06:27 AM
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#27
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,519
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Updated with more pics of the chamber build. I have the compressor mounted now, and just a little more framing and then it's done. I've decided I'm going to have to cut the door in half, otherwise it'll be a pain to open. It'll present a challenge to keep the door well sealed, but I think I have a good plan for it.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'm a fan of "getting it in the can"!
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04-14-2011, 12:54 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brandon, Florida
Posts: 234
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts Likes Given: 20
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OUTSTANDING! And thanks for detailing the fridge tear-down. I've been wondering how that's done... 
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04-14-2011, 03:49 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,519
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorDad
OUTSTANDING! And thanks for detailing the fridge tear-down. I've been wondering how that's done... 
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Thanks, I'm just kind of making it up as I go along from the rough sketch I have in my head. I'm glad it's coming together as well as it has  Keep in mind that I specifically found an older mini-fridge with the cooling coil on the back. The new ones have those built into the walls and are much harder to disassemble.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'm a fan of "getting it in the can"!
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04-14-2011, 04:07 PM
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#30
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 194
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts
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Awesome thread. I'm just getting into brewing and the frame itself doesn't look like it was too expensive, but will obviously be helpful in many ways. What do you think the materials for the frame alone cost you?
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