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Old 01-06-2011, 07:44 PM   #21
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That is awesome!!!!

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Old 01-06-2011, 07:46 PM   #22
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NICE BIULD!!!
If you want to do any soundproofing to that ceiling, let me know - that's what I do for a living.

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Old 01-06-2011, 07:47 PM   #23
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Thanks man...it has taken a lot of blood, sweat, and beers to get it to this point.

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That is awesome!!!!
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Old 01-06-2011, 07:51 PM   #24
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As soon as I grout the slate and travertine in the bar area, I'm moving on to paint. Then it's just drop ceiling and carpeting. Are you willing to drive to MI from MN to take on a project? I'll take any advice in that arena that I can get, but I plan on doing it myself sometime this winter.

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NICE BIULD!!!
If you want to do any soundproofing to that ceiling, let me know - that's what I do for a living.
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:15 PM   #25
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HA! I'd love to if there's beer involved! I have family up in Charlevoix. There are a couple things that will give you huge results. Ducts, Joists and Tile-backers. If you have the ability to up-size the duct work, you can line the ducts with a VERY cost effective lining that helps to stop the sound from going up, through the registers back to the supply/return mains and off to the rest of the house. If not, use flex if possible.

You'll want to get some standard fiberglass insulation in the joists before you run your grid. This will absorb the sound bouncing around in the plenum. Cheap and easy.

Add additional supports for the T-bar grid and use a piece or two of 5/8" drywall on the back of each tile. Again, cheap and easy.

Sound is blocked by eliminating air spaces that connect rooms. Sound is like water - it travels via the path of least resistance. Ducts are that first path because they carry air. The second path is the area with the least amount of mass. Ceiling tiles have less mass than sheetrock, so a cheap and easy way to add mass to the ceiling is to back your standard tiles with rock. The fiberglass in the joists absorbs the sound that would normally reflect from the subfloor to the back of the tiles- like a ping-pong ball bouncing around.

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Old 01-06-2011, 08:21 PM   #26
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Nice! Thanks for the advice. Are the ceiling tiles that are rated "Superior Sound Control" at Lowe's or HD effective at all? I will keep all of this information for when the time comes......hopefully sooner than later. Thanks again!

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Old 01-06-2011, 08:45 PM   #27
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looks awesome so far! can't wait to see some finished shots.

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Old 01-06-2011, 09:18 PM   #28
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I'm just down the road from you so if you want help breaking it in, I'm your man.

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Old 01-06-2011, 11:46 PM   #29
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Nice! Thanks for the advice. Are the ceiling tiles that are rated "Superior Sound Control" at Lowe's or HD effective at all? I will keep all of this information for when the time comes......hopefully sooner than later. Thanks again!
They won't block any sound from going upstairs, but they will absorb some echo within the room. Tiles that are built and used to block sound are REALLY expensive and there are a few ways to use locally products to get close to the same performance. I always tell people that a drop ceiling is more of a visual barrier than a noise barrier, but if you back the tiles with rock, you increase the density of the floor/ceiling assembly and stop at least some sound.

Do you have a link to the HD or Lowe's tiles? I'll give you some feedback if I can.
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Old 01-07-2011, 12:38 AM   #30
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I'm in the vicinity of Baldwin and Oakwood....closer to Oxford than Ortonville. I'll do my best to get the project done soon. I'd be happy to have you over for a few beers. I'll keep you updated.

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