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Old 07-22-2010, 12:52 PM   #21
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I love the large hopper you made, and the Plexiglas is cool so you can see the grain.....and the magnets are a great idea....you've inspired me!

I have the same mill ....I wired mine in with a run capacitor and a start capacitor, the start cap is wired to a button on my stand so if I ever forget to start the mill before adding grain I gust hit the button momentarily and it kick up the torque.... I bet i could fill the entire length of the rollers with wheat and get it started with my "turbo" button.

my build is here:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/moto...ml#post1998134
Vincemash

I looked at your build and would be interested in adding extra start cap. How would I wire in the extra cap. Does it just get connected back to other cap? Or could I just get a larger cap and replace the orginal start cap and only have one?
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:53 PM   #22
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I haven't tried milling yet, but I am really curious if mine will start with the hopper filled. My mill, the JSP sounds different than yours which I'm assuming is the Barley Crusher. I don't have any recent plans for brewing, so the crushing will have to wait. However, I will say that my cordless Panasonic (18.8v) turns my mill with relatively little problem even with the hopper full. Although, last time that I did a IIPA with 16 pounds, the drill got pretty hot by the time that I was done milling. I mounted my motor with a very simple square U-shaped threaded hanger that I bought at the hardware store. The bracket stated that it was meant for hanging lumber. I shimed the back end of the motor with some shim wood stock to keep it level with my mill and then I only bolted the motor onto the table. There is a flat section on the motor that allows the bracket to get very good contact and it's really solid. I'm really inexperienced when it comes to electricity. Originally I had everything wired and the motor would not turn on. I switch two of the wires on the power switch and then everything worked as it should. I'm assuming that I wired the capitor correctly.
We have the same mill (JSP MaltMill) except my rollers are gear driven which forces them both to rotate. I guess that could account for the difference in starting force... with both rollers turning, I think mine will be more aggressive at pulling grain in on the startup.

Thanks for the details about how you mounted the motor!
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:57 PM   #23
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That's pretty cool....a turbo button. Now with all this talk, I'm really anxious to try this out. I also like how you ran a sack to your bucket to keep all the grains flowing only into your collection bucket. Boy, that looks like a huge motor you have mounted.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vincemash View Post
I love the large hopper you made, and the Plexiglas is cool so you can see the grain.....and the magnets are a great idea....you've inspired me!

I have the same mill ....I wired mine in with a run capacitor and a start capacitor, the start cap is wired to a button on my stand so if I ever forget to start the mill before adding grain I gust hit the button momentarily and it kick up the torque.... I bet i could fill the entire length of the rollers with wheat and get it started with my "turbo" button.

my build is here:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/moto...ml#post1998134
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:22 PM   #24
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Vincemash

I looked at your build and would be interested in adding extra start cap. How would I wire in the extra cap. Does it just get connected back to other cap? Or could I just get a larger cap and replace the orginal start cap and only have one?
All I did was wire the start cap in parallel with the run cap, and then just wire in an "off momentary on" (from radio shack) push button to it. You definitely cannot have the start cap on all the time as it would burn out the motor and/or the capacitor, its made to just give a short "burst". Motor Start Capacitor 108-130 MFD uf 110-125 VAC Volts.

Also, you need to make sure your motor can handle a start cap

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Originally Posted by MW66 View Post
That's pretty cool....a turbo button. Now with all this talk, I'm really anxious to try this out. I also like how you ran a sack to your bucket to keep all the grains flowing only into your collection bucket. Boy, that looks like a huge motor you have mounted.
Yea, that's just a chute to keep the dust in the bucket, its from an old rain coat I had laying around. I also kept the part that was under the mill originally and that sits on my bucket to keep all the dust in the bucket as much as possible.

The motor I bought 10 years ago was called a "beefy bodine" from www.sciplus.com (archived page) for $29.50.... they don't carry it anymore but you can still get the same motor for a more expensive price here:
www.herbach.com
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Old 10-29-2010, 02:22 PM   #25
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MW...

I have the same motor and would like to wire it the way you did. Can you provide a wiring diagram for your build?

I was going to follow the diagram here http://www.lamabrewery.com/the_mill.htm but it is for a different motor and electricity confuses the hell out of me. I would prefer to follow the wiring diagram of someone who has teh same exact equipment.

TIA!

John

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Old 10-29-2010, 03:36 PM   #26
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Check out Rockytoptims's thread as there is a link to a wiring diagram (lambdabrewery) which I used: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/fini...d-mill-186036/

He is the one that got me started. If you still need help, I will do my best, but I'm no electrical engineer either.



Edit:

Sorry, I missed that you did look at this link. I did follow that diagram. If it doesn't work for you, I'll check out my mill and send you specific instructions.

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Old 10-29-2010, 03:56 PM   #27
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My main concern is that the wires are colored differently. I don't believe that the motor we have has a red wire. I don't want to assume that red translates into black on his drawing.

Also, I am not very knowledgeable about switches. Are the posts marked clearly (+ -)? Looking at his diagram, are the switches oriented so that On and Forward are Up?

John

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Old 01-19-2011, 05:11 AM   #28
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im also curious on how this was wired for the reverse switch

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Old 02-25-2011, 12:11 AM   #29
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I got the motor at: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...=1&item=5-1098

and the rest of the items:

3/8" hub no keyway 6408K133
1/2" hub with keyway 6408K713
Buna Spider 6408K74

Here is the product page
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/1163/=7x8sp8


Like I mentioned, I got all the information from Rockytoptim, so credit goes to him. I used a 3 way switch so I could go forward and backward. The motor was a pretty good deal at $40, so that why I finally did it.
Thanx for the INFO!
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:39 AM   #30
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A couple of people asked how to do the wiring of the switches to get the forward and reverse functionality.

Here's the wiring diagram that is on the website that sells the motor:



You can see that the only difference in forward or reverse is which side of the capacitor (blue or black wire of the motor) you have the voltage source connected to.

You need a 3-way switch, and a regular switch to pull this off.... edit: or a SPDT (single pole, double throw) switch with a center off position... see next post.

Below is a pic of a 3-way switch. Check your specific switch to identify which screw is which, but the basic principle is that there is one screw that is the "common" terminal. This is where your 120v comes in (labeled "C" in the pic.) With the switch in one position, current will be allowed to flow from "C" to the screw labeled "1". When you flip the switch, current is allowed to flow from "C" to the screw labeled "2".



This is a standard switch. When it is in one position, no current flows. When it is on the other position, current is allowed to flow from one screw to the other.



You use the normal switch as your main power switch, running the 120v hot line through it and then connecting to screw "C" of the 3-way switch.

You connect screw "1" of the 3-way switch to one of the motor's wires, either blue or black, just pick one. You connect screw "2" to the other wire.

The two switches together now form a path from your voltage source to the blue or black wire, depending on which way the 3-way switch is flipped.

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