martinworswick

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heres mine,the rollers are 10"x4.5" concrete filled mild steel ,it does 15lb in less than 30 seconds

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copyright1997

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Hi all -
I am trying to motorize my Barley Crusher with this motor: Gearmotor, AC, 157 RPM - Gearmotors - Gearmotors - 2Z849 : Grainger Industrial Supply mentioned originally in this thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/157-rpm-ac-gearmotor-sale-grainger-281761/

Anyway, I have an on-off switch wired up and have verified the motor operates. Now I would like to have the ability to change the direction (reverse polarity) of the motor from clockwise to counter-clockwise.

This motor (single phase, 115V) is wired up as having leads T1& T8 to hot, T4 & T5 to neutral. I believe that T1 and T4 are for run, T8 and T5 control start-up direction as the motor "manual" indicates that T8 and T5 should be interchanged to reverse. That is, T1&T5 to hot, T4&T8 to neutral.

Here's my issue. What switch do I need between the SPST power switch and the motor and how should it be wired. I originally thought I just needed a SPDT (e.g. "3 way light switch) to switch the hot between T8 & T5, but now realize that this doesn't solve the problem of the return leg also needing to be switched.

Any ideas? I know this should be simple, but I can't get my head around it! Do I need something special? (I noticed drum switches in trying to research this). Can I somehow use a 4 way light switch, or a DPDT switch? What is the least expensive yet safe way to wire this?

Thanks!

Edit. Figured it out. Duh. Finally worked out in my head that I needed a double pole double throw switch. So the solution is to have a normal on/off switch, then take the hot and neutral from it as inputs to the DPDT which I needed to wire in a cross fashion. Thus, when the dpdt is one way, hot goes to t5 and the neutral (return) from t8, and when the switch is the other way hot to T8 and neutral to T5. Finally, the other two leads (T1 and T4 if I remember correctly) don't go via the DPDT, but are connected to the power on/off switch. (All of this is via pigtails to only ever have one line screwed into a terminal post position.) Now that I have it working, tomorrows project is to get a another enclosure for the dpdt toggle and pigtails.

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P8ten

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Here's mine. Finished up tonight.

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When I have a beer I feel like a new man, then that man wants a beer.

Mpez

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I have my new mm3 on wheels.

NYC

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Mpez that looks awesome! What a clean design.

Here's my clunky effort to motorize my MM3. For sentimental reasons I wanted to use the motor I played around with growing up, and for space reasons I used the right-angle gear-reducer and cantilevered it over the table.

It works great, and it's worth noting the binding issues that plagued my brew day when I used a corded drill disappear with this much torque.

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Phischy

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purplehaze

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There are some nice mills in this thread, mine may not be as pretty but it was cheap. Initially I was not sure it would work so I built it out of some scrap left over flat stock from my keezer build.

Space is limited in the shed so I wanted something that I could hang up out of the way. It probably took me about 20 minutes to make. I ended up cantilevering it off the side of my old Shopsmith. With the three pulleys it amounts to a 10:1 ratio and 175 rpm.


Its hard to see but here is my MM3 hanging in the window.


Here is a shot of it mounted to the shopsmith


A shot of the pulleys

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My single tier rig

No fans keezer build

Tap handles

New England Group Buy

Islandboy85

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Classy!

Phischy

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My logo (8hrs of work)



Custom fabbed belt tensioner:



Other side has the state of Alaska burned into it, need to do more work. Otherwise, it's just paint, cheap and easy but really makes the mill look good.



I've made mills for friends and I can say that 1: a good motor isn't cheap and 2: barley crushers are total ****.

CarlLBC

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love this thing.

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That's what she said.