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Old 02-20-2011, 03:41 PM   #1
ernestmyname
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Default Mash Tun Manifold overengineered?

I was given this rectangular cooler and am considering using this setup for my mash tun manifold. It isn't official but I was wondering what you guys think. Cost really isn't an issue since I got to return my 10 gallon igloo cooler! I really wanted to incorporate two different drain locations, thinking that it would make the draining a little more uniform. The only downside to this setup I can see is I will have to solder the joints to ensure a good siphon. Otherwise, I will lose a lot of wort at the end of the drain. It will also be more difficult to get that last little bit of wort out the grain. Thoughts?



BTW, to clarify, I planned to connect the drain tube to the exposed T fitting pictured. Possibly with high temp tubing to allow it to be connected and disconnected easily.

To clarify further, the fittings on the closest side have not been populated with the connecting pipes.

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Old 02-20-2011, 04:05 PM   #2
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I can't imagine loosing syphon - even if you dont solder any of it. The runners are drilled all over the place, which is the path of least resistance. I would leave it just finger fit tight and see how it does. You may want keep it at least in sections if you ever have to give it a total clearing out down the road.

and it looks like you can go flexible righ into that center spanner, and delete the raised t-bar. With the drain tube above the entire manifold, that might be your set fluid level when draining. If that made sense. the manifold body looks like it could retain 12-16 ozs!

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Old 02-20-2011, 04:16 PM   #3
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My understanding is if the water level went below the raised portion and air was able to get by the fittings, it would lose siphon and would only drain to basically the bottom of the raised portion. Those parts, at least, would need to be soldered.. Originally, I was going to have three drain locations and use tubing for all of them. but, the center was too narrow for a T. I could for sure use tubing and cut down on the total height significantly.

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Old 02-20-2011, 04:19 PM   #4
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If you have the holes facing the bottom of your tun you should leave very little liquid in you system and that little bit is not a concern anyway.

However if you must, fill up the tubing when assembled but not drilled and empty in a measured container, add this extra to your sparge and voila!

I agree with steakandale about solderning some but not all of this for cleaning!

Looks good to me, good luck!

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Old 02-20-2011, 05:11 PM   #5
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So the question of whether or not this thing was over-thought is pretty self-explanatory..

If you thought it was ridiculous now, just wait. I will hopefully post pics of the new, final, design tonight. many changes were made but for the good.

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Old 02-20-2011, 05:48 PM   #6
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It will certianly work as is. But I thought I'd suggest changing the orientation by 90 degrees. The Tees in the picture are on the long length of the cooler. I would put the Tees along the short length of the cooler, only to simplify construction and cleaning.

Just a thought. Have fun.

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Old 02-20-2011, 06:12 PM   #7
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WOW! Thats around 50 pieces of copper! I would guess that you will lose a siphon at the highest point of an unsoldered joint? The goal here is to fly sparge?

It is beautiful, I'll give ya that!

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Old 02-20-2011, 06:26 PM   #8
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Love the design. No need to solder.

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Old 02-20-2011, 06:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDancer View Post
But I thought I'd suggest changing the orientation by 90 degrees..
I used the orientation it is in at the moment based on Palmer's "how to brew". With the T's along the long side of the cooler, it ensures I don't drain near the wall... I am wondering if my new idea is even worth the change. It would basically make the draining slightly less uniform but would allow the highest point to be as low as the other copper members.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:44 PM   #10
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So this is an alternate design.. If I went this way, I would solder all T's that are in the center of the cooler and put slots in them as well as the pipes. Do you guys like option A or option B? I have already mocked up the lowest member in the picture and it will actually go just behind the street 45 that will go from the bulkhead to the T connector.

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