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Old 02-27-2013, 02:42 PM   #61
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Just heat up your strike water, dump it in, close the cooler for 5 minutes, that will pre-heat it just fine, while you are grabbing your grains. Then open it up and mash in.

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Old 02-27-2013, 02:46 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by jflongo View Post
Just heat up your strike water, dump it in, close the cooler for 5 minutes, that will pre-heat it just fine, while you are grabbing your grains. Then open it up and mash in.
this. why waste the water plus the time to heat it just to throw it out? use it for strike

I scoop some out of the heating water prior to it actually reaching strike temp, the add the rest to strike
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:21 PM   #63
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Thanks!! Should I heat the strike water to 164 if my desired mash temp is 154?? Is that a good place to start at least? I will have a gallon of 190 degree water and a gallon of cold water in the fridge to adjust with. (This is what I've done on my partial mashes and it seems to work pretty well)

Also, how long should I mash at 154?

Thanks again!

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:33 PM   #64
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Thanks!! Should I heat the strike water to 164 if my desired mash temp is 154?? Is that a good place to start at least? I will have a gallon of 190 degree water and a gallon of cold water in the fridge to adjust with. (This is what I've done on my partial mashes and it seems to work pretty well)

Also, how long should I mash at 154?

Thanks again!
164 should be good place to start

how long to mash? most of the conversion is done in 30 minutes, but 60 minutes are the norm

you had a question also about "mash thickness" is the "grist ratio" means how many quarts of water per pound of grain to use for strike water.

12 pounds of grain at 1.25 quarts/lb = 15 quarts, or 3.75 gallons of strike water for your mash
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:48 PM   #65
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this. why waste the water plus the time to heat it just to throw it out? use it for strike

I scoop some out of the heating water prior to it actually reaching strike temp, the add the rest to strike
I never said throw it out.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:52 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jflongo View Post
Just heat up your strike water, dump it in, close the cooler for 5 minutes, that will pre-heat it just fine, while you are grabbing your grains. Then open it up and mash in.
this. why waste the water plus the time to heat it just to throw it out? use it for strike

I scoop some out of the heating water prior to it actually reaching strike temp, the add the rest to strike
Quote:
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I never said throw it out.
sorry if I didn't make it clear, I was saying that you had it exactly right, use the water to heat the tun AND for strike.
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:19 PM   #67
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Gotcha. Thanks! That makes sense. I thought they meant that the water / grain combination in the water should be 1.5 inches thick or something, and I was just wondering how I was going to pull that off.

Thanks again!!

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Old 02-27-2013, 04:47 PM   #68
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I don't preheat. I use BeerSmith, so I set my Light, Medium and Heavy bodied Single Infusion mash profiles to reflect 68F mash tun and grain temp. Then set the Thermal Mass in your equipment profile. I selected 22# of 0.3 ratio because cooler and manifold Iis 18# plus losses to steam when dumping it in. Lastly, build a recipe, select your equipment and mash profiles, then on the Mash tab of the recipe check "Adjust Water Temperatures for Profile" (or somesuch, I'm on my phone).

Usually it tells me around 166-168 for most brews so far. With 22# of 0.3 and 68F set, it gets me within half a degree every time. Just remember to close the lid when walking back to the stove for the second bucket of water or over to pick up the grain to keep the heat in.

Smallest batch so far was 12# 2-row, 4# flaked corn, 1# minute rice for 10 gals of cream ale. Biggest was 41# of grain for 10 gals of double IPA.

Ignore grain bed depth. It only applies to batch sparging as long as you account for tun deadspace.

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Old 02-27-2013, 11:12 PM   #69
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I use beer alchemy, assume it is similar to beersmith but Thad's numbers make me wonder. Anyway I add 1 gal hot tap water while the strike water heats and set my thermal mass for the tun at 2 pounds even. I dump the tap water before adding strike water. Add water, hen grain. Stir like crazy. Checking temp about 15 min later I'm hitting target just about perfect.

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Old 02-28-2013, 01:22 AM   #70
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2 pounds sounds really, really low. Unless it has no material factor, maybe?

My cooler weighs 16# alone on my postal scale, plus 2# more in copper manifold. Copper has a different specific heat than plastic (0.3 vs 0.092 in BeerSmith), so I added a little bit to be sure to compensate for the steam losses from pouring in the strike water.

If you're stirring like crazy, you not be using a panel or coming in a little hot and try to cool it back down a degree or two?

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