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Old 02-15-2013, 08:31 PM   #31
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I also have this cooler with a ss braid and batch sparge. It's a good cooler for batch sparging but I don't think it's a good design for fly sparging. It's very long and I expect you will get a lot of flow near the drain and no flow at the far end. With the fly sparge it's important to have even flow through the grains so they all get rinsed equally. Just my 2 cents.
I plan on batch sparging pretty much all the time. I have seen some people make pretty cool manifold looking fly sparge devices out of cpvc that sit above the grain bed and act like a sprinkler.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:48 PM   #32
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first time I used this MLT it lost maybe 2 or 3 degrees over an hour. today I rolled out some aluminum foil over the top of the mash and didn't lose any temp.

pre-boil volume was a little more than calculated but gravity was dead on

need to finish the boil and chill to see what OG will be.

EDIT: measured OG - 1.066 = 72.5% efficiency. I can live with that

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Old 02-18-2013, 09:08 PM   #33
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A blanket makes a big difference too.

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Old 02-18-2013, 11:28 PM   #34
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The top is insulated but not as thick as the sides, so putting extra layers on top doesn't hurt.

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Old 02-18-2013, 11:37 PM   #35
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I plan on batch sparging pretty much all the time. I have seen some people make pretty cool manifold looking fly sparge devices out of cpvc that sit above the grain bed and act like a sprinkler.
You can sprinkle any which way to Sunday. If all the flow is at one end of the cooler your not going to have a very efficient sparge. I'm not saying it won't work. I haven't tried it with this cooler so I don't really know. I'm just saying this cooler is not the ideal shape for fly sparge.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:00 AM   #36
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What's all this talk of filing? I didn't have to do any of that with my copper T's, and even in the same cooler. Just picked up plain solder T's from Lowe's.





It breaks down and rinses in under 5 minutes. Assembles in less than 5 minutes. No solder, no welds, no putty. 85%+ mash efficiency each time so far (single infusion).

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Old 02-19-2013, 10:40 AM   #37
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Looks pretty good Thad.

I considered the silicone thang, but was too cheap to spring for the hose barbs. By the way no need to file with slip tee's.

The slot spacing looks similar to mine. I have since heard that for HERMS you want to maximize surface area versus flow rate so I might end up cutting more slots.

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Old 02-19-2013, 11:12 AM   #38
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Slot spacing wasn't planned. I came home from the third consecutive 12-hour graveyard shift, and it happened to be a holiday Monday morning.

My brew buddy (father, in fact) was off that day and looking bored, so I asked him to cut the slots. I printed him a picture of somebody else's manifold and went the hell to sleep.

I woke up and had these slots. I think he tried a sawzall with a couple different blades, a hacksaw, and a jeweler's saw. They're all different widths, spacings and depths. At first I was worried I'd get bad efficiency, but when the first batch come out at 86%, I realized it doesn't really matter how ugly your manifold slots are. The wort doesn't give a **** either way.

However, this layout was chosen because I thought maybe some day I'd like to fly sparge with it. In that case, I could just replace the edge pieces with solid pipe and not have to re-make the whole darn thing. It worked out nicely that the two short pieces leading to the barb T ended up being within 1/16" of the rest of the short pieces, so it's all interchangeable.

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:45 PM   #39
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Good job. I'll take 86% any time. I guess you can over think these things. I marked 1/4" spaces originally, but cut every 1/2" because it was taking a long time with a hacksaw.

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:56 PM   #40
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did have a problem with the lid not wanting to stay closed... had to put weight on the top

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