Looking for heatstick(s)

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VTBrewer

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Anybody have or willing to fashion a couple of heatsticks for a fair price? I'm not handy, and the stir plate I made today maxed out my DIY for 2009.
 
I'm willing to make them for you. I want to make two for myself, so a couple more should be pretty easy.
 
Shipped a heatstick to VTBrewer today and listed them on Ebay as well. Search "1500 Watt Heatstick' if you'd like
 
Have you priced the parts to make one of these lately? I have to tell you, I was very surprised that it cost as much as it did to make one of these.... about $40 in materials from Home Depot.
 
Have you priced the parts to make one of these lately? I have to tell you, I was very surprised that it cost as much as it did to make one of these.... about $40 in materials from Home Depot.


I didn't realize they went up that much. I spent around $25 a couple years ago building mine. But I will say that Home Despot is ungodly high in their prices IMHO............
 
Well, I'm madly researching other sources, but haven't found any that are cheaper, even online. The largest expense is the metal tube. Next is the wire, and then the epoxy. The element itself is still quite reasonable. If I succeed in finding lower prices I will reduce the "Buy it Now' accordingly. I'm not out to make a killing on these (if I were I think I'd be getting more than $10 labor to make one, and would be charging a packaging fee with fixed and inflated shipping costs)
Ebay also charges me $6 when (if?) one of these sells, so that means I don't make $5 on these. Still think it's "nucking futz"?
 
I have been thinking about making an electric HLT. How long would it take to bring 5 gallons of sparge water to 180?
 
With 1500W you are looking at 60 minutes to heat from 60F - 180F
 
Might want to look into getting some sort of insurance if you are going to be selling them. A really good disclaimer if nothing else.
 
You can easily convert an HLT to electric heat for $30...

Element $8
SS Nut $8
Epoxy $5
PVC sleeve $1
Electrical cord $7

Done.
 
Might want to look into getting some sort of insurance if you are going to be selling them. A really good disclaimer if nothing else.

I thought that too... electricity + water. We are using this stuf for a purpose for which it is not intended, tested or approved. If you sell to an idiot, or a small leak occurs... someone might get lawsuit happy. It is the American way.
 
You should add a disclaimer about only plugging them in when submerged- just in case someone who didn't know any better buys it, and burns it out in a red hot glow of glory :)
 
I put in a disclaimer that it must only be used with a GFI outlet and to not even order one if you don't have it. If anyone does buy one it'll ship with a printed disclaimer, and instructions that let people know that it will burn out pretty much instantly if not submerged.
Yep, POL, you could easily convert an MLT to electric for $30... because you don't need that damned tube. They apparently think those things are valuable.
 
Well, I'm madly researching other sources, but haven't found any that are cheaper, even online. The largest expense is the metal tube. Next is the wire, and then the epoxy. The element itself is still quite reasonable. If I succeed in finding lower prices I will reduce the "Buy it Now' accordingly. I'm not out to make a killing on these (if I were I think I'd be getting more than $10 labor to make one, and would be charging a packaging fee with fixed and inflated shipping costs)
Ebay also charges me $6 when (if?) one of these sells, so that means I don't make $5 on these. Still think it's "nucking futz"?


No, I don't and I believe I (kind of) said that in my other post.
 
I thought that too... electricity + water. We are using this stuf for a purpose for which it is not intended, tested or approved. If you sell to an idiot, or a small leak occurs... someone might get lawsuit happy. It is the American way.

Thought I would add my $.02. First off on the price I just made a heat stick with parts from both Home depot & Lowe's. The parts are expensive at both places. Plumbing tube, wire, (on/off switch, which I put on mine), epoxy, heating element etc., not including the labor.

Second on the Insurance liability aspect, I have worked in property/casualty insurance for 15 years. You are seriously crazy to build these and sell them. Heat sticks are dangerous, no matter how careful you are about building them. I am not an electrician but have been zapped a few times with 110v and it's not fun. To many things can go wrong with a heat stick even using a GFI and these could easily KILL some one. I wouldn't even build one for my brewing neighbor ( though i did walk him through the process, but he built it). To sell these for a $10 dollar profit is not worth the risk. You could lose everything you own along with wage garnishments for the rest of your working life if someone dies using a heat stick you built. The product liability rests sole with the person that built the unit regardless of any disclaimer you have signed.
 
When I saw this request for someone to build someone else a heat stick, this was my thought... LIABILITY. Id love to do some cool DIY stuff for a brew buddy, but I would never actually do it when it comes to something like this.

If there is a flaw in one of these, in the craftsmanship... OMG, someones wife is going to sue you for all that you are. I can assure you of that.
 
Ok, you all convinced me (well, you and my already held concerns about liability) and I removed the ebay listing.
 
We did it because we care...

Like when I smack my daughers hand as she is trying to insert her finger into an outlet...

The ammount of liability that you take on by doing something like this is extreme. You are not licensed, bonded, probably not even an electrician? Some fool drops this thing, damages it... whatever, and gets zapped and his widow and children will have no problem making your life hell, for what? $3 of profit per death stick, I mean heat stick?

The FARHTEST I would go would be to create a parts list and instructions on how to build such a thing. Followed by a disclaimer stating that you know NOTHING about electricity and your continued survival is only by the grace of God, and not your own doing...etc. This is what I did when I posted about my E-HERMS build here. I think that I even stated that my rig will kill you, so build at your own risk... blah blah.

You are doing a wise thing grashoppa... we'd like to keep you around.
 
Geez, maybe I should retool the plant for another item. Saw an Ebay listing for an "Extra heavy duty wort chiller" ...but with no specs I emailed the guy. Turned out the "extra heavy duty" chiller, with "twice the surface area" of his previous IC is made up of 20 feet of 1/4 inch tubing. All for just $29.99 plus shipping. I think there's maybe a market for a REAL HD one....
Or ...maybe not
 

I just bought two of these from a supplier in Canada. I think they are a pretty good deal -- the pair were $90, including shipping. So about the same cost as making them yourself (yes, those parts are getting expensive).

Here's a picture.

31tsgcXpJVL._SS500_.jpg


I plan to use them in my HLT to bring strike water and sparge water up to temp. I will also throw them in the boil kettle to get things moving a little quicker, too.

I only have 15 amp circuits to work with, so I thought 1000 watts each was about all I can manage. I have two circuits in the garage and two on my kitchen countertop, so these should work well for brewing in either location. I really like the stainless guard around the heating element to help prevent me from burning a hole in my cooler.

I believe they have an auto-shutoff, which is a nice safety feature as well. I am not sure if you can boil water with these or not, but I don't need them for anything hotter than about 180 F. Seemed like a good deal.
 
The only issue I'd have with those is length... looks like you could drop the entire thing in boil kettle full of water. Other than that they do look good
 
I picked up one of those, tried it on one batch, and returned it. It's impact was negligible... with two you might be on to something. I just think 1000w is too low (unless you are doing small batches).

Our homebrewer from Alaska also tired these I believe with the same response to them as myself.

Just my .02.
 
I just bought two of these from a supplier in Canada. I think they are a pretty good deal -- the pair were $90, including shipping. So about the same cost as making them yourself (yes, those parts are getting expensive).

Here's a picture.

31tsgcXpJVL._SS500_.jpg


I plan to use them in my HLT to bring strike water and sparge water up to temp. I will also throw them in the boil kettle to get things moving a little quicker, too.

I only have 15 amp circuits to work with, so I thought 1000 watts each was about all I can manage. I have two circuits in the garage and two on my kitchen countertop, so these should work well for brewing in either location. I really like the stainless guard around the heating element to help prevent me from burning a hole in my cooler.

I believe they have an auto-shutoff, which is a nice safety feature as well. I am not sure if you can boil water with these or not, but I don't need them for anything hotter than about 180 F. Seemed like a good deal.

Hey Flyguy where did you get it. (PeevyMart?) I've been thinking of making making one but this seems cheaper and easier.

Thanks
Rudeboy
 
Hey Flyguy where did you get it. (PeevyMart?) I've been thinking of making making one but this seems cheaper and easier.

Thanks
Rudeboy

I got two of them from SMB Manufacturing in Ontario. The total cost, including shipping and GST was $88 and change. They actually just arrived today.

Note that their online order system doesn't work well. I actually had to call in the order and give them my credit card in the end. They guy I spoke to was really nice, and apologized for the website. Apparently it is in the process of being re-done.
 
I got two of them from SMB Manufacturing in Ontario. The total cost, including shipping and GST was $88 and change. They actually just arrived today.

Note that their online order system doesn't work well. I actually had to call in the order and give them my credit card in the end. They guy I spoke to was really nice, and apologized for the website. Apparently it is in the process of being re-done.

Thanks please let me know how they work out. I was wanting them for a) heating the Mash tun if I fail to hit my strike temp with out watering down the Mash. b) Step mashing in my Mash tun (a converted cooler) c) help the boil kettle get up to the boil a little faster.

None are necessities but if this is effective it sure would help.

Thanks
Rudeboy
 
I picked up one of those, tried it on one batch, and returned it. It's impact was negligible... with two you might be on to something. I just think 1000w is too low (unless you are doing small batches).

Our homebrewer from Alaska also tired these I believe with the same response to them as myself.

Just my .02.

I just built a ~950W 110V low-density heatstick from a 4.5kW 240V element, and by itself it really doesn't do much. What I really wanted it for, though, was to just give a minor boost to the boil to keep it rolling (my stove seems to max out around 212 F on 7 1/2 gallons, it'll boil but not vigorously), and maybe as a way to gently heat the mash. With my stove on max, the 2kW sticks I had were way too much power and also had high-density elements so they would sometimes scorch the wort.

I've tested it in water, and it does heat, albeit slowly. Granted, that's what I was aiming for. By itself it likely couldn't get water over 170 or 180 or so, but I made it to use with a stove that's providing the bulk of the heat.

My new stick:
100_1188a.JPG


It's a weird shape, but it fits in my Boilermaker with the bottom of the "foot" resting on the bottom of the pot and the handle against the rim.
 
I just built a ~950W 110V low-density heatstick from a 4.5kW 240V element, and by itself it really doesn't do much. What I really wanted it for, though, was to just give a minor boost to the boil to keep it rolling (my stove seems to max out around 212 F on 7 1/2 gallons, it'll boil but not vigorously), and maybe as a way to gently heat the mash. With my stove on max, the 2kW sticks I had were way too much power and also had high-density elements so they would sometimes scorch the wort.
I've tested it in water, and it does heat, albeit slowly. Granted, that's what I was aiming for. By itself it likely couldn't get water over 170 or 180 or so, but I made it to use with a stove that's providing the bulk of the heat.

My new stick:
100_1188a.JPG


It's a weird shape, but it fits in my Boilermaker with the bottom of the "foot" resting on the bottom of the pot and the handle against the rim.


So it is true? Scorched wort? Some ppl swear it never happens. Was it noticeablu schorched, or was it more or less a darkening of the beer?
 
I'd unplug the heatstick, let it cool, then taste the element before you clean it after a brew. Sounds stupid, but I bet it'll give you a good idea if you're scorching wort.

FWIW, I've direct fired my mashtun a few times on low heat and never noticed a thing; nor could I see any evidence of scorched wort on the bottom of the keg.
 
So it is true? Scorched wort? Some ppl swear it never happens. Was it noticeablu schorched, or was it more or less a darkening of the beer?

If I had too much protein in the wort, like when I used rye and had a badly stuck mash, I got scorching from hell. I mean there was sizzling black crud on the element.

Other batches, I had no problem other than it boiling a little too vigorously if the stove was also on max - it would splatter wort out of the pot. It was just too much heat for the size batches I do.

Using it in the mash was a BAD idea, it would cook grain to itself. It wasn't the total wattage that was the issue as much as the element was just too high-density. The whole loop was only 14 inches long, so it was putting out over 100 watts per inch - and if you've ever tried touching a 100 W lightbulb when it's on you know that's pretty damn hot. My newest stick only does 20 W or so per inch over 48 inches so it should avoid this issue.
 
Cool cool, I use a 5500W element in my BK that is an ultra low watt density element. Seems to do just fine.
 
I just bought two of these from a supplier in Canada. I think they are a pretty good deal -- the pair were $90, including shipping. So about the same cost as making them yourself (yes, those parts are getting expensive).

Here's a picture.

31tsgcXpJVL._SS500_.jpg


I plan to use them in my HLT to bring strike water and sparge water up to temp. I will also throw them in the boil kettle to get things moving a little quicker, too.

I only have 15 amp circuits to work with, so I thought 1000 watts each was about all I can manage. I have two circuits in the garage and two on my kitchen countertop, so these should work well for brewing in either location. I really like the stainless guard around the heating element to help prevent me from burning a hole in my cooler.

I believe they have an auto-shutoff, which is a nice safety feature as well. I am not sure if you can boil water with these or not, but I don't need them for anything hotter than about 180 F. Seemed like a good deal.

Hey FlyGuy have you used this yet. I just got one from the local Coop.

It doesn't really have much of a handle. Is that an issue?

One of the reasons I got it was to heat up my Mash if I'm a little low. Any one ever done this. I take it you need to move it around so as not to scortch the grist. But how much? Constantly? Or just make sure not to leave it stationary for five minutes type thing?

Thanks

Rudeboy
 
Nope, haven't tried them yet. Brewing gear is still in storage. :(

Sorry man.

I had a good look at them, though -- they appear to be a low density element, meaning that they shouldn't scorch too easily. A bit of stirring will be advisable, but I don't think you have to entirely babysit them.
 
In my experience, an element used to heat the mash should be in constant motion to avoid scorching. I have done it when undershooting strike temp.
 
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