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-   -   Keggle skirt holes for additional burner venting (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keggle-skirt-holes-additional-burner-venting-261470/)

outside92129 08-08-2011 04:20 AM

Keggle skirt holes for additional burner venting
 
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Has anyone cut additional holes in their keggle skirts to allow better venting from the burners? The flames on my new stand aren't curling downward, but it appears that the combination of windscreen/frame is interrupting the flow of exhaust gasses. I'm thinking a series of 1/2" holes along the top of the skirt would work, or if i get lazy bigger slots with the angle grinder.

iaefebs 08-08-2011 04:31 AM

What is the theory on flames curling downward? I think the 4 holes already in the skirt would be enough to let any gas to escape.

outside92129 08-08-2011 04:44 AM

As a test on the single tier, i had both burners going toward the low end of output. One burner with keggle, one without. The steel and windscreen around the burner with the keggle all discolored and turned red hot, the burner without the keggle "obstruction" did not.

Catt22 08-08-2011 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by outside92129 (Post 3151743)
Has anyone cut additional holes in their keggle skirts to allow better venting from the burners? The flames on my new stand aren't curling downward, but it appears that the combination of windscreen/frame is interrupting the flow of exhaust gasses. I'm thinking a series of 1/2" holes along the top of the skirt would work, or if i get lazy bigger slots with the angle grinder.

Yep, I did and I regret it. It substantially increased the time to bring 5 gallons to a boil. I did a before and after test and did my best to eliminate any other variables. I do not have a windscreen on my burner, but the test was done out of the wind in an enclosed garage with an SQ-14 burner. This was a one time test, so don't take the results as absolute. I may well have overlooked something. The venting concept sounded like a good idea, but I no longer think so. If you do it, run a similar before and after test and post back. I'd be inteested to know if you have the same result.

iaefebs 08-08-2011 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Catt22 (Post 3151875)
The venting concept sounded like a good idea, but I no longer think so. If you do it, run a similar before and after test and post back. I'd be interested to know if you have the same result.

I agree.... more information is good.

Golddiggie 08-08-2011 05:25 AM

I think it also depends on the burner you're using... I used my KAB4 under my keg mash tun and didn't have any issue. Well, none from the burner that is...

vinyl_key 08-08-2011 07:46 AM

I've seen a thread here on the exact same subject, only, I can't find it, and I can't remember what the conclusion was (lot of help I am lol). The guy did some before and after measurements with timing how long it took water to boil in the keggle before and after the holes. I think the thread also had some experiments on painting the bottom of the keggle black if that helps to find it?

Dwain 08-08-2011 01:24 PM

I just have the original 4 holes in the skirt. Luckily, I turned the keg so they don't face "out" front and back. Flames come out of those holes and will superheat anything around (including shirt tails!) - Dwain

olsond 08-08-2011 06:45 PM

I don't understand why you'd want the heat venting out from under the Kettle.

Catt22 08-08-2011 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olsond (Post 3153225)
I don't understand why you'd want the heat venting out from under the Kettle.

The theory, as I understood it, was that the un-vented skirt would trap gasses which would deflect the incoming hotter gasses preventing them from reaching the bottom of the kettle efficiently. The vents were supposed to allow the cooler gas to be more effectively displaced by the incoming hotter gasses by giving it an easy escape route.


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