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Old 09-21-2012, 08:56 PM   #81
JusticeAle
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Okay so I ended up cutting out pieces of the shelving with a dremel in order to fit the kegs and it worked just fine! Ok for starters I put the first keg in on the right side and then I put the second keg in on the left side. Why is this important? Because I left a notch of the shelving on the top left of the door(looking at the door open) as it is the notch that turns the light off. This way both kegs fit in the fridge and the notch is still there to turn the light off without having to disable the light some way or another Cool the the light function still works. Here are my pictures.

Cut the door with my dremel
img_1050.jpg
Light switch and Notch
img_1051.jpg
Sealed the cuts with foil tape
img_1056.jpg
Door closes and it makes a seal!
img_1057.jpg

Alright so it doesn't look as pretty as the other danby's with white boards and such but this type of build has the upside of having a working light in the fridge. Just a hunch but I'm also hoping that leaving most of the door with it's foam insulation will actually help keep the fridge well..... more insulated then If I took it off.

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Old 09-22-2012, 02:04 PM   #82
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Awesome. I am glad I waited for someone braver than myself to trailblaze how to do this. Looks great. I will get to work on my own very soon.

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Old 09-24-2012, 02:37 PM   #83
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You know, now that you mention it, I am not sure that I ever looked for screws on the second unit because I had already decided I was just going to cut out the shelves. I had tried a dremel, but found that a boxcutter worked better and gave me a cleaner cut which was easy to smooth out wth sand paper. I'll check for screws when I get home tonight.

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Old 09-26-2012, 02:41 PM   #84
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Just randomly checked this thread...I've been using this fridge for almost 2 years now.

I took a slightly different path for the door...I just peeled back the rubber gasket a bit, removed all the screws, then took out the entire insert. When i put the gasket back in, it didn't have a 100% perfect seal anymore (between the screws it would "open up" a little bit). So, I went to HD and got some really inexpensive plastic sheets, and cut/drilled them so that it goes plastic - rubber - door again, but without all the parts sticking out the insert had. Works great now. For the light, i just used a small piece of gorilla tape on the switch. I didn't find the light useful anyway.

If you don't want to ever be able to put the door insert back in, instead of plastic, just use some silicone sealant to hold the rubber on the door.

The main reason I went this route is that there's a good chance i'll want to use this as a regular refrigerator again - I was thinking I'd be jumping to a chest freezer at some point . Glad I did, as the freezer is now in the basement waiting for conversion.

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Old 09-26-2012, 10:25 PM   #85
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Ya I wanted to go that route and just unscrew the shelving for the same purpose of using the fridge as a normal fridge at some other point if i felt the need. Unfortunately the dar440bl model I received did not come with screws. They literally glued the shelving to the door and the seal depends on that door to stay on. I heard the fridges were back ordered a month or so ago and these are probably the "new" dar440bl models If I'm not mistaken.


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Old 09-28-2012, 06:33 PM   #86
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Hey guys, I just got all of my materials in and will be starting this same conversion this weekend. Have the same door issue as you, appreciate the pictures. glad I didn't spend $30 on plexiglass before realizing this!

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Old 09-30-2012, 12:49 PM   #87
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I decided to cut off all the door shelving as flat as I could. I then screwed a piece of plexiglass on top to make a completely flat surface. I then used foil tape to seal the edges of the plexiglass and cover the screws. This should prevent any moisture getting into the insulation.

image-1381626586.jpg

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Old 10-09-2012, 01:30 PM   #88
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Did anybody ever try fitting 10 pound co2 tank in there?

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Old 10-10-2012, 01:05 AM   #89
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I like the idea of cutting the shelving as flat as possible and covering with plexiglass. I think I may do that to my frig and use a frosted plexiglass to give it a cleaner look. Sure would have been nice if they just let it the way it was with the panel being screwed in.

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Old 10-11-2012, 12:30 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hbrew85
Did anybody ever try fitting 10 pound co2 tank in there?
Pretty sure it won't fit on the hump in back, even at an angle. It should fit standing up next to the Cornie, but will limit you to a single keg
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