Kegerator Conversion with Danby DAR440BL

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So, I bought the Danby DAR440BL and 2 Pinlock kegs...well...they don't fit. I didn't realize the Pinlock kegs were wider in diameter. My DAR440BL has a 'lip' on the inside bottom of the refridge.

So, before I go out & get a new fridge or 2 balllock kegs...I was wondering if anyone else has managed to get 2 balllock kegs inside the Danby with the bottom 'lip'. It seems to restrict space inside the fridge and I'm not sure if this is a new design by Danby.

Thanks for any feedback.
 
Yes, I removed the inside door panel & replaced with a thin sheet of polystrene. The pinlock kegs are about 8.75" in diameter. I've seen ball-lock kegs listed @ 8.5" in diameter, perhaps the total .5" difference (2 kegs) is enough to squeeze in.

I think even the pinlocks would fit without that back ledge. Does your Danby have the "lip" or ledge in the bottom back?
 
There are also plastic rails for the lower shelf. Perhaps I could cut or grind those away to get these pinlocks in.
 
Not sure what you mean by a lip. I just took all the shelving out and replaced the door molding. I assume you're not talking about the hump in the back. I've attached a picture to show how mine looks.

photo.jpg
 
Yea, yours has it. The 'lip' is the housing for the compressor & components. Can you get 2 pinlocks in or balllocks?

I like that blue light!

Thanks
 
Mine are ball locks and have no problem fitting two in there. When I put a second keg in there, I have no issues with space - there is about and inch or inch and a half of clearance between the 2nd keg and the door.
 
From what I've read (about to do this myself with the 440BL and 2 pin locks) you do need to cut the lower shelf racks and then they just barely fit.
 
Texasbrewer73, how did you remove your door moulding? I've read that the DAR440BL has screws holding the moulding in place, the one I just bought does not. What was your experience?
 
Mine had screws. Just pulled back the gasket to expose them. Not sure if they changed the design or not though.
 
Mine are ball locks and have no problem fitting two in there. When I put a second keg in there, I have no issues with space - there is about and inch or inch and a half of clearance between the 2nd keg and the door.

Texasbrewer, can you take a quick measurement of the depth from the edge of the hump in the back of the fridge to the front edge with door open? I just ordered this fridge (new version without screws in door) and I only have 10.5 inches from hump to front inside edge of fridge. Your picture seems like you have a lot more room.

Thanks
 
ToddPEI said:
Texasbrewer73, how did you remove your door moulding? I've read that the DAR440BL has screws holding the moulding in place, the one I just bought does not. What was your experience?

Older version of the DAR had screws. On new ones the panel is glued in. People who have tried to remove it have had troubles. Although it is much less attractive, the best solution is to cut off all of the protrusions with a Dremel or a utility knife, and then cover the scars with metallic duct tape.
 
Sorry - I sold my kegerator this past weekend, so I don't have it to measure any more. It's also of note that I cut a hole on the side and kept my CO2 tank on the outside.
 
About to start this project today and have a newer model with the plastic molded inner door (instead of the screw in older models), but this thread, describes everything you need to know about doing this project. If anyone has any questions about doing this project feel free to send me a message.
 
I cut the shelving off the doors and sides of the fridge (DAR440BL) but still can't fit my two pin-lock kegs in there...
I'll add a photo tonight but am wondering what to do in the meantime. There doesn't appear to be anywhere else I can trim to gain space so I might need to swap one of my pin-lock kegs for a ball-lock.
 
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