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Old 01-31-2014, 04:56 PM   #21
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Default Keg to Bottom Drain MLT Help

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I know it's too late, since ya' already did the cut, but have a look here, at how I salvaged a keg with a smashed ring:

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/view...?f=29&t=114559

That's awesome, I wish I had that level of know how. How did knocking out the dent in the bottom go? As you can see in the pic above I've got a flat spot near the dish. I figure it would take something heavy duty to round it back out.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:33 PM   #22
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The dent came out well, I used a piece of hardwood and a dead blow hammer, ( just a heavy, no bounce hammer), and start out EASY!.
Start from one end of your dent to the other, checking your movement after every blow.

It'll come out...........The area may be a little "stretched" afterward, but will pose no problems.

The key is to work slow, and tap it only enough to get some movement.

A baseball bat works well, as your "drift" punch, and a heavy hammer.

Let the hammer do the work, and aim your "drift" well.

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Old 02-04-2014, 11:11 AM   #23
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I've used my bottom-drain MLT numerous times with one of NorCal's false bottoms with no problems.
Do you anything holding down the false bottom? Or, does the grain bed hold it down?
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:20 AM   #24
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Do you anything holding down the false bottom? Or, does the grain bed hold it down?
Just the grain bed.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:28 PM   #25
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Just to close the loop, I got a false bottom and the TC hardware to convert the keg to a MLT. I first punched a hole for the recirculation port and used my flap disc to knock off some spot rust.

imageuploadedbyhome-brew1394997874.376938.jpg

imageuploadedbyhome-brew1394997895.128980.jpg

imageuploadedbyhome-brew1394997906.778519.jpg

Then I wrapped it in a couple of layers of reflectix.

imageuploadedbyhome-brew1394997959.866847.jpg

Today was going to be its maiden voyage, but my water Chugger is OOC. For some reason the impeller is decoupling, worked fine last month




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Old 03-17-2014, 01:06 PM   #26
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Looks good. Any reason you didn't decide to the the Tee with a pipe towards the front of the stand? Would make it easier for hose changes and the like.

Regardless, looks good.

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Old 03-17-2014, 01:39 PM   #27
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Thanks! I still might put the hose connection up front, but before I start making any new holes in my stand I'm gonna try out this config. One thing in favor of just the valve is it has almost no dead space, which is handy for the mostly CIP process I have planned.


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Old 03-17-2014, 01:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChocolateMaltyBalls View Post
Thanks! I still might put the hose connection up front, but before I start making any new holes in my stand I'm gonna try out this config. One thing in favor of just the valve is it has almost no dead space, which is handy for the mostly CIP process I have planned.


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I can see holding off for now in regards to drilling the stand, but dead space in a 3" piece of .5" pipe is practically nill. My MLT and BK are both bottom drain now, and I use one of those tan chinese pumps for moving everything. Having the valves on the front makes connecting the pump to everything so much easier and more than worth it.

Again, either way, your gonna love the bottom drain MLT. I've only used my once it was great to just get over it and spray it down and call it a day on cleaning that vessel.
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Old 03-18-2014, 12:07 AM   #29
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Looks good. What did you end up using for the top/lid?

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Old 03-18-2014, 01:03 AM   #30
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Default Keg to Bottom Drain MLT Help

I went with this: http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com/...-26/p4912.aspx

It covers the opening well, but if you can find something maybe 1/4" bigger that would be a little tighter. The MLT held temp when I was running hot oxyclean, it only lost a couple of degrees over 30min, without additional heat (like when I would recirculate with my full HERMS).


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