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Old 01-16-2012, 09:05 PM   #61
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Sounds fine to me. A lot of people here use just a 2x without any insulation at all (~1.5 R value?). I haven't heard any complaints of major inefficiency issues, and what you're describing would have 2-3 times the R value. I'm no expert, but I'd think making it airtight is just as if not more important than the R value of the collar.

If you really wanted to you could use some aluminum foil. It would help reduce radiant heat transfer, and might help a little. You could staple it to the poplar and/or plywood, or tape it to the foam before assembly.
Ah yes, I do recall that there is a coefficient for reflectivity in that equation for heat loss from my thermo class in college. Although just thinking about it makes me cringe. Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely do that.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:17 PM   #62
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Thumbs up for the title..."Keezer Soze", priceless.

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Old 01-17-2012, 03:56 AM   #63
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Rather han welding or soldering the copper, couldn't you just use a 90 elbow at the corners? Or would that not look as nice?

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I started brewing 69 days ago, 35 gal so far. SWMBO hasnt complained yet! Better than the hookers, gambling, and crack I used to do, I guess.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:43 AM   #64
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Rather han welding or soldering the copper, couldn't you just use a 90 elbow at the corners? Or would that not look as nice?
The main reason for me was that 3" copper elbows are $30-$40 each, but I also think they wouldn't look near as nice.
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Keezer Soze

Yuri rubs it out with 60 grit... wouldn't even feel a tenga egg. -Randar

, place entry ox dixla to suck. Fcxk fwnpoo and passed. Hel an my spupid ass. OK. - TXCrash
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:41 PM   #65
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The main reason for me was that 3" copper elbows are $30-$40 each, but I also think they wouldn't look near as nice.
local lowes for some reason has a closeout sale on 3" copper. 10 foot pieces are 61 bucks right now. elbows and fitings are real cheap also.
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I started brewing 69 days ago, 35 gal so far. SWMBO hasnt complained yet! Better than the hookers, gambling, and crack I used to do, I guess.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:26 PM   #66
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Default Great work

I had to register just to say I really appreciate the work you have done. The use of copper is perfect for this and I'm going to have to steal your idea

We've used copper for a lot of inlays and custom work in our house and its a tough call on whether to polish or let the patina come through. Personally I would polish or seal. When it comes to food or drink, there is something about a clean look that I think works better. Just my opinion though.

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Old 09-15-2012, 09:14 PM   #67
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Love this build, so you basically used the one outlet for cooling and the other for the rope lights, my question is what would the diagram be for just the cooling outlet and no heating or rope lights? I have searched for an answer but came up empty...could i just use the other templates minus the heating wires?

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Old 09-16-2012, 05:23 AM   #68
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Love this build, so you basically used the one outlet for cooling and the other for the rope lights, my question is what would the diagram be for just the cooling outlet and no heating or rope lights? I have searched for an answer but came up empty...could i just use the other templates minus the heating wires?
Just use one of the standard diagrams and don't hook up anything to the heating terminals.
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Keezer Soze

Yuri rubs it out with 60 grit... wouldn't even feel a tenga egg. -Randar

, place entry ox dixla to suck. Fcxk fwnpoo and passed. Hel an my spupid ass. OK. - TXCrash
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:24 AM   #69
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Nice project! It is also great to see someone else taking their time on beer project, if not by choice, then due to respect for family budget and good design Cheers!

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Old 11-19-2012, 10:36 AM   #70
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Lookin' good! I'm looking forward to building something although it probably won't be as nice as this one.

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