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Old 01-25-2009, 04:46 AM   #11
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Thanks for the write-up. I'm limited on tools and space in my tiny apartment. That miter box and clamp should work.
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:48 AM   #12
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To get the light to work again, look for a tilt switch and just over ride the existing switch.

I see them on McMaster Carr's or you could get crafty.
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coastarine View Post
Once you cut your pieces it will be time to drill the holes for the shanks. My shanks called for a 1" hole and I believe that is standard. I used a spade bit for this. Remember to drill a 1/8" pilot hole and make sure to start the hole on the face that will be the outside. There are different techniques for using a spade bit, but if you just drill straight through there will likely be some damage to the bottom face when the bit breaks through. In this case I really don't care.
For the sake of information for others viewing this thread, I will mention another technique of using a spade bit. Instead of drilling a pilot hole, you can use the point of the spade bit to pierce your mark on the wood. This will be plenty to hold it while the drill starts. Drill just until the point pierces through the other side of the material. Then turn the material over, and use the small hole as your pilot. This technique prevents any splintering on either side of your hole.

Also, remember that spade bits work best with only gentle pressure. They are pretty easy to burn up. Remember to back off often to remove material.
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Old 01-25-2009, 02:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedski View Post
For the sake of information for others viewing this thread, I will mention another technique of using a spade bit. Instead of drilling a pilot hole, you can use the point of the spade bit to pierce your mark on the wood. This will be plenty to hold it while the drill starts. Drill just until the point pierces through the other side of the material. Then turn the material over, and use the small hole as your pilot. This technique prevents any splintering on either side of your hole.

Also, remember that spade bits work best with only gentle pressure. They are pretty easy to burn up. Remember to back off often to remove material.
If you place a piece of scrap wood under your drill exit hole area and clamp them together. You can drill into the second board and your cut in the first board will come out clean...

Oh, nice article...
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Old 01-25-2009, 03:08 PM   #15
bigger than most
 
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nice job, very clever
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:20 PM   #16
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I finally consider my home brewpub complete. This...is...awesome.

The 3/16 tubing I used from NB (perlick brand) at 6' has allowed me to finally turn the temperature up to 40 and the pressure up. My lighter beers are finally carb'd up to my preference (I like 'em on the fizzy side) and the pour is completely idiot proof. Let the beer fall into the center of the glass for a nice full head, or down the side for minimal head. The tubing is so much more flexible and easy to work with. This is so much better than cobra taps.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:30 AM   #17
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Nicely done Coastarine. I like that you can go through that much beer that you need that many faucets! I plan on three on a tower. Hopefully in my bar. One ale, one stout, and one for everything else...most likely seasonal. Summer Wheat/Lager.

One question, and more for everyone else rather than just you. I saw one keezer on here somewhere that the designer had put insulation on the inside of the collar so he didn't lose heat as much through the wood. Any reason not to?

Last edited by Skrimpy; 01-27-2009 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:34 AM   #18
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I actually find myself wishing that my keg turnover was faster. I just can't bring myself to do batches less than 5 gallons. I love having variety! It's not like the beer goes bad...quite the contrary! My pipeline is full, and I'm always itching to taste the next beer in line.
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Fermenting:.
Conditioning:
On Tap.........[The Munchner][Spiced Cider][English Cider][Simcoe IPA][Triple Hops Grooved][Cider'n 'gnac]
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:41 PM   #19
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I am in the Process of Building One my self Right now. Basically the Same Set up! Only I havent been anble to make up my mind if i should put a Stout in or not...??????? Either way Like Coastarine said,The Bigger the Buffet of Frothiness The better!!!

What slowed my Process up is i Have a Metal Lid with not much to secure my collar to so had to build a little reinforcement!Plus this freezer is not as deep as newer ones (It was a Freebie) so i have to put a 8" Collar on it so my Kegs fit. But no biggie when my Family owns a custom cabinet shop! .. I Will have to post Pics when i get her done!
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Old 02-02-2009, 09:31 PM   #20
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The collar for keezers is something I've been wondering about, but haven't pinned down a good reason for. Are they to provide more headroom in the keezer? Allow taps to be mounted without drilling through freezer walls? Raise the height of the taps? All of these reasons?e
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