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Old 08-09-2011, 04:28 AM   #1
valkyrie
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Default Keezer advice (Kenmore 8.8)

I'm going a bit crazy with all my options and could really use some advice for my new keezer build. I feel in love with electrichead's keezer build, but wanted a few of the features I found in Quaffers build. Long story short, I wanted to hybridize the two, but now I'm a bit perplexed. I'm requesting a little help to get my parts list and plans finalized.

I ordered the Kenmore 8.8 (currently in the process of exchanging it as Sears crushed the lid), but just about everything else is wide open. Going with electrichead's beautiful red oak collar. I'm ordering original freezer hinges to do a double-hinge, and thinking about getting an OEM seal and second lock to really make it look pro.

For the rest of it, I'm splurging a bit, so money isn't a huge concern (but if I'm throwing it away, please let me know). I have 4 ball-locks now, but would like to go to 6 soon.

So...here goes.

Faucets:
Perlick 525SS (x6)
4-1/8" Stainless Steel Shanks (x6)
Stainless tailpiece, nut and washer (x6)
Black plastic handle (x6)

Not really sure how I go wrong here, these seem to be universally recommended as the best.

Beer line:
Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra barrier line (100ft - may need more, but I figured I'd try 20 ft per line)
Loctite mix nozzles (if the beer line isn't long enough)

Again, it comes highly recommended, so I got in on the group buy and grabbed 100ft. The loctite nozzles seem a good solution if my pour isn't what I want and don't want to go longer than 20 or 25ft on the line.

CO2 tanks:
20lb tank (x1)
5lb tank (x1)

Not sure if this is the way to go. With up to 6 tanks, would like not to have to run out regularly for a fill. Figured I'd use the 20lb for the keezer, and the 5lb as backup, for picnics, force carbs, etc. Advice appreciated.

Regulators:
Here's where I'm lost and need the most help. I want to put the tank outside the keezer (similar to what Quaffer did). But, I'm not sure if I understand all my options.

Do I want the primary regulator inside or outside the keezer?
Do I want the regulators mounted to the collar or not?
Do I want hard lines running between the inside and outside? (And if so, what kind of pipe is best?)
Do I want the primary regulator to have Do I want the primary regulator to have one nipple, a WYE nipple, or two nipples?
Is it insane to want six different pressures inside the keezer, and if so, do I want the high-pressure gauge with the secondary regulator or not?

As you can see, I've stalled a bit on the regulators. I would very much appreciate your advice. If YOU were building a 6-keg system and money wasn't much of an object, what would you choose?

Thanks a ton, I'm paralyzed into inaction and I want my system up and running for the NFL season!

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:16 PM   #2
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Go with the 3 in shanks. Easier to get kegs in and out of keezer. I have the same freezer and the 3 in do not interfere at all

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:40 PM   #3
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I have the same freezer. As doublesimcoe said, do 3" shanks. I'd also use 90* tailpieces to maximize your space loading kegs. Six is a tight squeeze in this freezer so every little bit helps.

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:42 PM   #4
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Good questions on the regulators. I was having those same questions and did quite a bit of research. My recommendation:

Put the primary with the CO2 tank on the outside of the keezer. (And I also have a 20# and 5# backup - good to have the small guy with a regulator to bring a corny to a party/BBQ)

If you really want 6 different pressures, I'd recommend getting a row of secondary bodies. So 1 gas line from the outside, from your one primary. Then this in the keezer:
http://stores.kegconnection.com/Cate...ndary%3A6+body

I ended up not going that route. I have a 2 body primary regulator on the tank. And from each body, I have a splitter:
http://kegcowboy.com/index.php?dispa...product_id=192
So I can have 2 different pressures, and 2 lines coming off each. (4 kegs, 2 at 15psi, 2 and 13 psi, for example)

BUT - I only run one gas line from each primary into the keezer. Inside the keezer, I have 2, two-way air distributors:
http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=51

So I have 4 gas lines at 2 pressures in my keezer, and I still have 2 lines outside of the keezer (from the original splitter off of the primary) that I can use to force carb at room temp, or hit kegs with CO2 to pressurize when filled with sanitizer to clean lines, etc.

Now - when I got my distributors, I neglected to realize they are built stupidly. (they have an L shape in the body, I can't mount it to anything)

If you want to go all out - get the 6 body secondary, make sure you have it before you finish your build, and build a nice mount for it. It may take up too much space in the keezer, so you may be better off mounting it outside (will be easier to adjust anyway) and run all of the gas lines through the collar.

Or use a few bodies, and use splitters. That is the cheaper way. How often will you really use 6 drastically different pressures anyway? Everything I do seems to be between 12.5 and 16.

Just be sure if you mix and match components, you get the right sized everything. So maybe all of the parts fit 5/8".

And for what its worth, I wouldn't run hard lines. Gas lines are nice so you can move things around as needed.

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:44 PM   #5
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And to clarify - you still do need at least one high pressure regulator body to hook up to the tank - then a gas line to your secondary regulator set. You could get a 6 body primary regulator - but that seems to mee too easy to tip over your CO2 tank and break something. I'd rather run a gas line from the primary to a well mounted secondary set.

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:57 PM   #6
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I am doing almost the exact same thing you are. I just purchased the 8.8cf freezer from sears along with extra hinges, gasket and lock latch to lock the upper door. I almost purchased a new light switch so that the light would work for both doors, but I decided against it.

Everything you mention looks good. I went with the 4.XX inch shanks. As we are doing the double hinge, it is not that big of a deal if they stick in the freezer a bit more.

I am not sure you need 20ft of bev tubing. I am using 5ft of 3/16 for my four taps.

I plan on drilling extra holes for 6 total taps, but only using 4 right now.

What size wood collar are you going for? I was thinking the 2X8 oak with a not so dark stain and insulated foam for the inside. I was going to mitre cut the from pieces and butt the back pieces to help with stability, since they will not be on display. Liquid nails and 90 deg brackets are also on my list of things to get.

I plan on keeping my 5lb canistar in the freezer. I could always change this later if I wanted to. Do you know if a 10 or 20lb will fit on the floor with 4 kegs?

Good luck I will be following this thread. I will start my thread once I have all equipment in hand.

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Old 08-09-2011, 02:17 PM   #7
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Thanks for the great suggestions, this is just the kind of information I need.

doublesimcoe and Demon, I'm curious about the 3" shank recommendation. I found these schematics for the shank sizes:




If I want to create an insualted collar the same width as the original freezer wall (2-5/8"), it looks like I'd need the larger shank if I didn't want to bore out the collar for the nut and tailpiece. While I'm okay with that idea, I though disassembly for cleaning might be too much of a pain and like physast said, the if I mount the shanks on the low-side of the freezer and use the double-hinge collar, I don't think they'd be in the way, but maybe I'm missing something. Can you elaborate on your suggestion? Thanks!

luke2080, thank you. Great to hear someone else has thought about this, so I know I'm not completely nuts. I like the idea of having a two pressures outside (one to feed the secondary and one for force-carb/cleaning/etc). So maybe a three-guage outside, one line into the keezer, and the 6-body inside? Again, if I mount the 6-body on the 8" collar on the low side of the freezer, I think there will be enough room for it all. I tried putting the kegs in the freezer without the collar last night, and four fit fine on the floor, leaving me with all the collar space for other "stuff." (Again, unless I'm missing something).

Out of curiosity, for those running soft lines through their collar, do you worry about insulating the holes? Anything special that you do, or just drill a tight-fit hole and run the soft CO2 line through the collar?

physast, we should compare more notes about vendors. This should be a fun build, but I do want to make all the right decisions. For the collar, I'm thinking the 1x8 (like electrichead's in my original post) and insulation. I'm going miter all four corners and brace like he did. That way I can choose which side "looks best" and have it face out once the collar is assembled and before I drill/stain. When you go to 6 taps, you will need to move the CO2 tank outside. I tried fitting 6 kegs in last night and it works (4 on the floor, two on the shelf), but there's no room for a tank. With only 4 kegs, you could fit the 10 or 20lb tank in there (the 10# is only 21" high, the 20# is 27.5", and a corny is about 26").

Not sure if you're doing this, but I'm going to try the mechanical temp adjustment method vince805 shows here before I invest in a temperature controller.

Anyway, great advice from all, thank you. Please offer up more, if you have it. I want this build to be done right, and I appreciate learning from all of you have done this before. Cheers!

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Old 08-09-2011, 02:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Not sure if you're doing this, but I'm going to try the mechanical temp adjustment method vince805 shows here before I invest in a temperature controller.
I have thought about doing that myself. However I already have the ebay aquarium temp controller ordered.

I went with kegconnection for my shanks, beer and gas line and disconnects. The remaining equipment I got from northern brewer because they had a 10% discount code.
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:37 PM   #9
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You want the 3&1/8 in shank. Total length. Here is my set up. I can take pics of interior if you want.

image-24835389.jpg  
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie View Post
luke2080, thank you. Great to hear someone else has thought about this, so I know I'm not completely nuts. I like the idea of having a two pressures outside (one to feed the secondary and one for force-carb/cleaning/etc). So maybe a three-guage outside, one line into the keezer, and the 6-body inside? Again, if I mount the 6-body on the 8" collar on the low side of the freezer, I think there will be enough room for it all. I tried putting the kegs in the freezer without the collar last night, and four fit fine on the floor, leaving me with all the collar space for other "stuff." (Again, unless I'm missing something).
You may run up your cost with what you are planning, but if you're more concerned about having an awesome setup and less about cost, I can't argue with your rationale. But you can probably get away with a 2 body regulator - one line going into the keezer, the other for "out of the keezer" purposes. Unless you do intend to force carb many kegs outside of the keezer.

But for mounting - give the supplier a call and see if you can get the dimensions, and maybe a picture from the side angle with dimensions. Would certainly help you decide how to mount - need to leave room for the gaslines to go down and room to then bend wherever for the kegs.



Quote:
Originally Posted by valkyrie View Post

Out of curiosity, for those running soft lines through their collar, do you worry about insulating the holes? Anything special that you do, or just drill a tight-fit hole and run the soft CO2 line through the collar?
I just drilled holes the size of the OD for the tubing..just tight enough where I had to pull it through. Once the line is full of gas it expands enough. But I also added no insulation anywhere, and besides accessories may have the cheapest keezer build. I suggest you insulate if needed. You can always caulk it, once it is there and your manifold is mounted it isn't going anywhere.

My Keezer build - I pre-measured, and had Home Depot cut some cedar planks for me. 1" width. I then glued 2 boards together to give me 2" (really 1.5" the way they measure what 1" wide is (really .75"). Then liquid nailed it all together, then liquid nailed it to the keezer. Cut some triangles for the corners for support...which were liquid nailed in. Surprisingly pretty sturdy, and pretty well insulated. I've had no problems with my lazy mans build. Stained it, it looks OK. Corners are rough due to eyeballing measurements and imperfect cuts. But people at my place are just impressed I have beers on tap, they don't know how good some people build these things.
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