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Old 02-16-2010, 11:46 AM   #11
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Great "how to" article Jason. Lots of brewers will love this thread.

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Old 02-16-2010, 02:12 PM   #12
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Hi and thanks for this writeup. Reading about that PID, it mentions dual relay output, but do any of you know if those outputs can be used for heating AND cooling together? I need a dual stage controller and was planning on using this love: Series TSS-2
But this PID is priced much nicer. Can they serve the same purpose? I'm talking one output for fridge cooling, one for heating within the fridge. I can't tell from the documentation if so.
Thanks!

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Old 02-16-2010, 04:15 PM   #13
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no problem. I am going to have to make an amendment to this one day soon. A control relay should be used. I didn't realize it at the time but the internal relay on this guy is only rated for 3 Amps.... I thought it was 7 like the other... It seems to fair okay though. A lot of fridges already have a relay like this installed but trying to find it and wiring to it may be a little difficult for the average brewer.

It can behave as a heater, you would have to use one of the alarm out puts though. Set the alarm to the coldest temp you want and when it gets to that point the output will turn on and fire up the heater. for these, the heater would have to be rated less than 360W if you are going to directly drive it.

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Old 02-18-2010, 01:35 AM   #14
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for these, the heater would have to be rated less than 360W if you are going to directly drive it.
If it was more, would you use a SSR like on the electric brew rigs?

Thanks for all you write on this code, other projects may keep me from going electric right now, but I am learning a ton!
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:39 AM   #15
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If it was more, would you use a SSR like on the electric brew rigs?

Thanks for all you write on this code, other projects may keep me from going electric right now, but I am learning a ton!
No problem at all. You could use an SSR but you will also have to provide a small 12VDC power supply too. A cheap wall wort would do the job.
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:56 AM   #16
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No reason you couldn't. The 2 relays are only rated to 3A so you would need to use an external relay on them, but they each have an alarm-on-temp and and alarm-off-temp, so you could use that to, say, keep a refrigerator at a given temp, and then PID control a brew-belt or fermwrap. Only one PID control, but most cooling solutions can't take the pulsed power anyways, so it's not a huge deal.

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Old 03-19-2010, 02:21 PM   #17
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Set up the PID with the following parameters:

press set, enter 0089, press set again
intY = K
outY = 4 (on/off control using j2)
Hy = ? (This is the range you want it to operate in. If set to 3 the compressor will turn on at SV+3 degrees and off at SV-3 degrees. The smaller the number the tighter the control BUT you will cycle the compressor more)
Atdu = 0
PSb = ?, put the tip of the thermocouple in some ice water, adjust this number up and down till it reads 0 deg C. (I dont know if that probe is water tight. So just put the tip in the water or seal the back end with some silicone.
rd = 1
CorF = 1 (0 for Celsius)

Then you need to set one more parameter in the PID menu.
Press Set, enter 0036, press set again
ot = 20 to 40, This is the minimum time in seconds the fridge will be called to run and allowed to stop, preventing short cycling.
Everything else in this config is not applicable so leave them at their defaults.

Set the SV (Setpoint Variable)
Press set, 0001, set
SV = 50 (what ever you want your serving temp to be.)

And that is it.
Coderage,
Does this setup work for HLT and BK applications? I installed my PID (SYL-2352) last night, it was late and all the setup parameters and functions have me totally confused...I should have just left if alone and went to bed.

I'm trying to figure out which settings need to be changed when controlling 5,500w elements in the HLT and BK...thanks
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:10 PM   #18
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Coderage,
Does this setup work for HLT and BK applications? I installed my PID (SYL-2352) last night, it was late and all the setup parameters and functions have me totally confused...I should have just left if alone and went to bed.

I'm trying to figure out which settings need to be changed when controlling 5,500w elements in the HLT and BK...thanks
I'm interested to the answer to this question as well, as I too will soon have a 5500w element in my HLT/BK.

illin8, do you have 2 SSR's switching your element or a single?

I am assuming your using 40A SSR(s) rather than 25A since for 5500w you must be running 240/220v correct?
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:25 PM   #19
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I have one PID & one SSR...using a 3-prong outlet so I have to manually plug in whichever vessel (HLT, BK) I need to control. I am using Auber 40A SSR and heatsink on 240v (actually 245v at my house).

Did a small trial run last night with just water, aside from two leaky keggles I was very impressed. The only thing is that I don't have the PID configured correctly (I don't think) and haven't run the auto-tune (actually I did, but didn't let it finish because I started pressing buttons and screwing stuff up).

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Old 03-19-2010, 10:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodeRage View Post
Items needed
1 10+ foot 14AWG 3 wire extension cord.
1 SYL-2363A2 PID Controller
1 type K Thermocouple (example here, get one with long enough leads.)
6 blue Skinny fork connectors
I've been looking for this thread, I actually started another to find the Skinny fork connectors. I've looked everywhere I can think of to find those. Where did you get them? Coincidentally I have the same freezer and PIDs.
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