HOW TO: Wire an Auber SYL-2362A2 PID for a Fridge
This is the EASY way to wire the Auber SYL-2362A2 PID controller for a kegarator, keezer, or fermentation chamber.
1 10+ foot 14AWG 3 wire extension cord.
1 SYL-2363A2 PID Controller
1 type K Thermocouple (example here, get one with long enough leads.)
6 blue Skinny fork connectors
The service cord to my freezer was only 18 AWG, so 14AWG cord is more than plenty.
Cut the extension cord in half. Strip about 8 inches of the outer sheathing back on the male side and 4 inches back on the female side. So the three wires are exposed. Should be a black, white, and green wire.
Take the side with the male plug and cut 4 inches of the black, white and, green wires.
Toss the small white and green wires. Now strip a quarter inch off each end of the small black wire and and all of the wires on the extension cord. Crimp small fork connectors onto all white, black, and both ends of the small black wire. (One is missing on the short black wire here, wasn't sure if it was going to be too long. it wasn't)
Unscrew terminal 1 and stuff the black fork from the cable with male plug and one end of the short black wire on under the screw and tighten it.
Unscrew the #2 terminal and put the white wire from both halves of the cord under it and tighten.
There should be some forks on the ends of the thermo couple. Take a philips head screw driver and loosen the screws labeled 9 and 10 and slip one fork under each one and tighten them down.
Unscrew terminal 13 and place the loose end of the short black wire under it and tighten. Unscrew terminal 14 and place the black wire from the female cord under it and tighten.
Last take the two green wires and use a wire nut to twist them together. (Strip back to 1/2" if needed.)
Double check that all the screw terminals are good and snug.
Here comes the hard part.
Plug one end into the wall.
If all goes well none of the magic smoke will escape (You followed the directions right?)
Then plug the fridge/freezer into the female end of the cord.
Bend the forks 90deg away from the PID so the wires are coming straight at the controller. Put a couple of wraps of electrical tape around the base to protect the terminals. Secure the controller to the fridge. (this is temporary with tie wraps and some sticky pads.)
Here is a pic of one properly mounted in the door of a fermenting chamber.
Set up the PID with the following parameters:
press set, enter 0089, press set again
intY = K
outY = 4 (on/off control using j2)
Hy = ? (This is the range you want it to operate in. If set to 3 the compressor will turn on at SV+3 degrees and off at SV-3 degrees. The smaller the number the tighter the control BUT you will cycle the compressor more)
Atdu = 0
PSb = ?, put the tip of the thermocouple in some ice water, adjust this number up and down till it reads 0 deg C. (I dont know if that probe is water tight. So just put the tip in the water or seal the back end with some silicone.
rd = 1
CorF = 1 (0 for Celsius)
Then you need to set one more parameter in the PID menu.
Press Set, enter 0036, press set again
ot = 20 to 40, This is the minimum time in seconds the fridge will be called to run and allowed to stop, preventing short cycling.
Everything else in this config is not applicable so leave them at their defaults.
Set the SV (Setpoint Variable)
Press set, 0001, set
SV = 50 (what ever you want your serving temp to be.)
And that is it.
I am assuming you used the $6 bare k type thermocouple. are you going to mount it in a tube and seal it?
or are you using the $32 liquid model here?
great write up. I love the looks of this... are there many folks using these, or does the programming scare them off?
I updated the link for the thermo couple. I've used the RTDs you posted for my brew rig, I think they are a bit overkill for a fridge. You can find ones with longer leads from e-bay.
I am very intrigued by this!! I'm reading more and more in to this electrical control stuff so that I can possibly start controlling my variables much better. Some questions for you...
1) In your 3rd post you say "Set PV = 50". Do you mean SV? The manual is calling it out as SV but maybe I'm missing something here.
2) Is this preferable over say a digital or analog Johnson controller? If so, why? Cost? accuracy?
3) I see from the #5 post that you have used these for your brew rig. Are these able to be used on gas (propane or natural)?
And finally.... Please post more pictures!!! :D
Thanks! This is a very useful topic!!
Oh, one other question....
Why would you use this model over the SYL-1512A2?
Thanks for the typo catch, I should have said SV, (Setpoint Variable).
I don't care for the analog controller with the mechanical probe because you can't prevent short cycling and the hysteresis is unadjustable.
The digital ones use a thermistor and are a bit more configurable. Personally I think they are bulky and unappealing, functionally they may be fine.
I didn't use these on my brew rig, I use the slightly more configurable ones for that. For gas these guys would be what you want. To control the gas you would need solenoid valves to control the flow of fuel and pilot lights. do a search on asco redhat valves and you will find all the info you need. Thats about all I know about it because I don't have much experience with gas ;).
You can use the 21512a2, the only diff is the size and you can't see both the PV and SV.
Looks like you have the wrong part number in the initial post (2363?)
Great writeup. Thanks.
Wow. You're the man. I really like the idea of a PID for ancillary stuff like kegerators/ferm chambers.
So I guess it's about the same price as a Ranco, you just get a cooler display and more control?
I may have to wire something like this up!
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