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Old 01-29-2013, 04:55 PM   #31
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So, htc, great minds, right?!?!
Holy Cow!!! That thing is awesome! What kind of chill times are you getting with 100 feet of coil? It looks like we had about the same shopping list...

I'm diggin' the quick disconnect btw. I definitely hate screwing the garden hose onto the chiller. Does it leak at all?
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:09 PM   #32
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Htc,

I haven't timed it. I want to make an easy way to be able to suspend the chiller so the uppermost coil is just below the surface of the wort to maximize convection. Once that's done, I can time it with and without agitating the wort. My ultimate goal is efficient cooling times without any user intervention.

Adam

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Old 03-05-2013, 08:20 PM   #33
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Finally time for an update! I tested the chiller last month; 5 gallon final volume, low chilling water hose measured in the low 40's,

Timed from Boiling:

to 150°F in 1:57
to 125°F in 2:48
to 100°F in 4:21
to 63°F in 9.22!!!

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Old 05-06-2013, 09:12 PM   #34
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For anyone that has made this adapted / upgraded Immersion chiller, have you tested what the temp is coming out compared to the temp in the kettle? I wonder if more 4 shorter coils spread out more vertially.

Just a question, I am going to hopefully build this in the next week or so, too bad copper is so expensive now.

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Old 05-06-2013, 09:32 PM   #35
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I'm wondering why you used T joints for the two 'bottom' connections, did you just not have any 90's?

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Old 05-07-2013, 03:54 PM   #36
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I'm wondering why you used T joints for the two 'bottom' connections, did you just not have any 90's?
I'm not sure if HTC had other plans, or why the bottom "legs" were uneven in length, but whenever I get around to building one this design, I will be using those to space to coils off the bottom to avoid my heating element.
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:24 PM   #37
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I'm wondering why you used T joints for the two 'bottom' connections, did you just not have any 90's?
Sorry I missed your reply. I didn't use 90's because I wanted to keep the bottom coil off of the bottom of my kettle, mostly to minimize chiller contact with the kettle and maximize wort contact. I know it wouldn't be much, but every little bit helps.

As far as the uneven legs go. Chalk that up to poor engineering. I tried to remove the cap on the longest leg and shorten it, but it takes an incredible amount of heat to un-solder a sweated joint.
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:25 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63belair View Post
I'm wondering why you used T joints for the two 'bottom' connections, did you just not have any 90's?
Sorry I missed your reply. I didn't use 90's because I wanted to keep the bottom coil off of the bottom of my kettle, mostly to minimize chiller contact with the kettle and maximize wort contact. I know it wouldn't be much, but every little bit helps.

As far as the uneven legs go. Chalk that up to poor engineering. I tried to remove the cap on the longest leg and even it, but it takes an incredible amount of heat to un-solder a sweated joint and I just couldn't pull it off.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:43 PM   #39
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I think I just found the design for my next IC.

P.S. Don't assume that there isn't any water left in your IC and leave it in your unheated garage in the winter...

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Old 01-17-2014, 01:59 AM   #40
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You're right, that design does make it a pain to drain the water from. I try to rotate it around the coils to get it empty, but it lives indoors so it's not a worry.

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