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Old 12-03-2012, 09:05 PM   #1
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Default how do I get nice blue SS welds, not oxidized ?

My TiG welds are always gray and oxidized. How do I get them to be a nice, clean, blue color ?

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Old 12-03-2012, 09:17 PM   #2
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Not an expert here, but use less heat (or travel faster) and increase your argon coverage. Also make sure you're not melting through to the back side of the weld (if it's unshielded), which can also pull contaminants through to the front.

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Old 12-03-2012, 11:08 PM   #3
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Back gas with argon.

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Old 12-03-2012, 11:18 PM   #4
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Grey means too much heat input. If your welding thin SS, make sure your purge the backside of weld with argon, or use solar flux B to prevent sugaring of the weld. Using a gas lens and as big of a cup as you can get, and small diameter tungsten also really helps with thin stuff. I like to use 1/16" tungsten and filler. Also check your hoses for leaks as well because that can cause contamination. A good way to check if to strike a arc on a piece of SS in just one spot and let off the pedal keeping the torch directly over the spot untill the gas stops, the spot should be silver or a bit gold or you have a leak.

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Old 12-04-2012, 12:01 AM   #5
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Also, there are few ways to control heat input I figure I will mention. Heat input is not always the problem of too much amps, it can also be from traveling to slow as well. It's normally better to use a higher amps and faster travel speed to achieve a weld with less heat. You can also use things like copper on the back of a weld to try and suck some of the heat out of the weld (if the joint will allow it).

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Old 12-04-2012, 03:03 AM   #6
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If your welder can pulse it can help with to much heat

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Old 12-04-2012, 03:49 AM   #7
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Its not a problem of purging the back side because its happening even on thicker material. Here is a picture of a bead laid on 1/4" SS. There is no way it was penetrating through on that.



I don't think its a heat problem. On 0.100 wall SS, I am waiting for the puddle and waiting to add rod. Maybe I need to turn up the heat and move faster ?

I think it must be the nozzle on the torch. I'm using a #5 cup. Maybe I need a gas lens ?

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Old 12-04-2012, 04:11 AM   #8
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Here is another weld of mine.

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Old 12-04-2012, 04:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr20steve View Post
Grey means too much heat input. If your welding thin SS, make sure your purge the backside of weld with argon, or use solar flux B to prevent sugaring of the weld. Using a gas lens and as big of a cup as you can get, and small diameter tungsten also really helps with thin stuff. I like to use 1/16" tungsten and filler. Also check your hoses for leaks as well because that can cause contamination. A good way to check if to strike a arc on a piece of SS in just one spot and let off the pedal keeping the torch directly over the spot untill the gas stops, the spot should be silver or a bit gold or you have a leak.
Some good ideas here. Thanks.

I'm using a 1/16" electrode on the tubing. I'm probably going to step up to 3/32" to get a bit wider arc. Its focused too small with the 1/16" electrode.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:18 PM   #10
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I'd use a bigger cup (#8?) and turn up the argon flow a bit.

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