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Old 05-03-2012, 10:35 PM   #11
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yeah in general... the herms coil addition w/ hardware and hose is several hundred dollars if you go all stainless. That is why I waited a bit before I did mine. Two brews on it though and I think I really like it. Going to try a step mash with it and see how it turns out.

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Old 05-04-2012, 01:50 PM   #12
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No one ever said a HERMS system was going to be cheap. The benefit to all stainless is that you could use it for 3 years and sell it for almost what you paid. If you do it with copper, it's probably going to look pretty dingy by that time.

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Old 05-04-2012, 02:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
No one ever said a HERMS system was going to be cheap. The benefit to all stainless is that you could use it for 3 years and sell it for almost what you paid. If you do it with copper, it's probably going to look pretty dingy by that time.
very true. And I agree with all the rest as well.

Your statement about copper is why I am considering making a stainless immersion chiller to replace my current copper chiller.
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:33 PM   #14
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Im in the same boat, i have a 50' stainless coil with 2 90 degree bends to go strait out of the keg. I was looking on how to attach the coil inside with the fittings you mentions bobby. Could you post a link to your site on which fittings you would use for this project. I have the coil but am still trying to figure it out. Seems like your prices are right up my ally.

the coil is 1/2 inch outside diameter.

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Old 04-30-2013, 06:22 PM   #15
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I have some custom made fittings exactly for this purpose on the way, but probably won't be here for 2 weeks. They are based on the bulkheads I use on my weldless diptubes, but have 1/2" tube compression instead of 5/8".

You can still make a functional equivalent with http://www.brewhardware.com/fittings...ubecompression
1/2" NPT male x 1/2" tube.

and the 1/2" make weldless kit on here: http://www.brewhardware.com/thermome...l-thermometers

Teflon tape goes on the threads of the compression fitting, thread the locknut all the way down, silicone gasket, through the keg wall, then SS washer, then ball valve or type A camlock to create the gasket compression.

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