user 84304
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2011
- Messages
- 269
- Reaction score
- 5
This is the one they're using: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCMZ18/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Last edited by a moderator:
Hop spider woes solved! In stainless!
- Thread starter jeffdietzler
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Huaco
Well-Known Member
edited to remove redundant link...
For the guys using stainless canning funnels, you could put about 4 or maybe more dots of Gorilla Glue around the bottom edge. You may have to do one side at a time, the glue will run. Let it cure and I think that would keep the bag from slipping off the funnel. According to the Gorilla Glue website, the regular stuff is food safe once cured, apparently you can even microwave it.
davefleck
Well-Known Member
How did you guys drill the sink flange? Trying not to hurt myself...
Huaco
Well-Known Member
DO NOT DRILL THIS PIECE WHILE HOLDING IT IN YOUR HAND... Just a safety note...
-Locate holes 120 degrees apart. (I actually used a tri-folded piece of junk mail and the O.D. of the collar just so happened to be exactly 11" and the tri-fold locations were exactly where I needed the holes to be.
-Use a center punch to dent the collar.
-Put the collar in a vice in the axis of the drill on a drill press.
-USE CUTTING OIL
-Drill 1/4" hole using a slow speed and a good amount of pressure.
-De-bur with a file or chuck a stone up in the drill press and use that (that's what I did)
davefleck
Well-Known Member
Don't have a drill press. That is my problem
Huaco
Well-Known Member
then use the idea above... sandwich it with 2 pieces of lumber and clamp it with a large c-clamp and use a hand drill motor.
Yea, its exactly what I did. Took one 2x4 and one sliding lumber vice. The workbench acts as the other flat surface to disperce pressure evenly. Then just used a hand drill. worked flawlessly.
LowNotes
Well-Known Member
Is there any advantage to using a hop-spider over just clipping a paint bag to the side of the brew kettle?
I did my first AG BIAB batch a couple weeks ago, and after mashing, I emptied out the grains in the compost outside, rinsed the bag thoroughly, and then clipped it back on to the side of the pot, and tossed hops into it as required during the boil. After the boil, I just removed the clips, and pulled the bag out. Gave it a nice squeeeze to get the most delicious hop-juice I could, and then proceeded with cooling/pitching.
It was super easy and seemed to work perfectly. I haven't tasted the beer yet, and won't bottle until this Friday, but it definitely kept a wad of hops out of my fermenter. I only had 4oz total from the boil, and the pellets had swelled up to about the size of a softball.
I did my first AG BIAB batch a couple weeks ago, and after mashing, I emptied out the grains in the compost outside, rinsed the bag thoroughly, and then clipped it back on to the side of the pot, and tossed hops into it as required during the boil. After the boil, I just removed the clips, and pulled the bag out. Gave it a nice squeeeze to get the most delicious hop-juice I could, and then proceeded with cooling/pitching.
It was super easy and seemed to work perfectly. I haven't tasted the beer yet, and won't bottle until this Friday, but it definitely kept a wad of hops out of my fermenter. I only had 4oz total from the boil, and the pellets had swelled up to about the size of a softball.
Having your pot open to air leaves a potential for bacterial contamination. One thing to consider is that ideally you are throwing millions and millions of yeast cells into your wort. You are potentially adding a microscopic sample of bacteria, and you ave adding a very much quantifiable amount of yeast.
One thing that comes to mind is that people have been brewing beer since before they even understood how it worked what so ever.
One thing that comes to mind is that people have been brewing beer since before they even understood how it worked what so ever.
Whoa whoa whoa, i thought that was a very important step in the process of getting tasty beer. Now you are just confusing me!
Its like what is going to have the advantage, the huge yeast sample you pitch, or the minute unintended residents that have settled their way into your wort. Thats like having a full set of professional basketball players playing against 2 average joes.
Its like what is going to have the advantage, the huge yeast sample you pitch, or the minute unintended residents that have settled their way into your wort. Thats like having a full set of professional basketball players playing against 2 average joes.
I have all the materials for this build...
Have a question. I have use a 16QT kettle for partial mash/partial boils on my gas stove-top. The 5 gallon bag will hit the bottom of the kettle.
Any concerns with the mesh bag burning/melting due to the heat generated at the bottom of the kettle?
Have a question. I have use a 16QT kettle for partial mash/partial boils on my gas stove-top. The 5 gallon bag will hit the bottom of the kettle.
Any concerns with the mesh bag burning/melting due to the heat generated at the bottom of the kettle?
I have seen people posting mixed results with this, I don't have a problem and can let my bag hit the bottom. I am using an electric stove (not the kind where your pot sits right on the coil) and my pot has a domed bottom.
The melting point of nylon is listed as 374*F or possibly higher. Will the liquid in your pot be able to get hot enough to melt the nylon? No. Will the bottom of your pot (when touching a element or flame directly) beable to have a localized heat that is high enough to melt it, def possible.
The melting point of nylon is listed as 374*F or possibly higher. Will the liquid in your pot be able to get hot enough to melt the nylon? No. Will the bottom of your pot (when touching a element or flame directly) beable to have a localized heat that is high enough to melt it, def possible.
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Nothing says you have to fasten the bag at the neck of the bag. Just "choke up" on the bag so that it does not touch the bottom of the keggle...
I made a temp PVC one and I clamp the bag to the top. The fine nylon bags from my lhbs are 19x12 I think which are very very big in my 5gal pot. I roll down the tops with the spider on the top but no water in the pot till its just hanging above with about 1/2" between the bottom of the bag and the pot, then I clamp it.
hyperboarder
Well-Known Member
How are you guys drilling these? I just spent half an hour, used WD40 as lube, drilled slow, etc. Nothing got hot. Didn't even get through one. New bit time?
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
Use sharp bits made for metal and not wood. You likely have a dull bit.
The_Mad_Scientist
Well-Known Member
Step bits and a lubricant.
Definitely get yourself a good drill bit for a smaller starter hole. Once you get through it is easier to widen it. I broke 5 older drill bits on this because I was lazy and didn't want to run back out to the store.
hyperboarder
Well-Known Member
I assume a step bit will be too big, yeah? I'll need one eventually for drilling my pots, figured it might work for now.
Which lowes? The one in Woburn?
Toecutter
Well-Known Member
Any chance you saved your reciept/packaging ?? I am trying to locate one of these, and having the part number/SKU or anything you can provide will help me locate a Lowes in my area that I can find one. Thanks
iijakii
Well-Known Member
Building one of these this weekend. Problem is my kettle is wider than keggles, don't think I can get away with 6" bolts. I'll have to measure tonight. What other option would be best? All Home Depot had was bigger ones in Zinc.
user 84304
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2011
- Messages
- 269
- Reaction score
- 5
I would then just go with stainless threaded rod. You can then cut it to size, sand the ends to smooth and it should work well.
I made mine with a 1/4" stainless all-thread rod that I found at Home Depot for about 5.99. Lowe's likely has it also. Just cut it to size and smooth your threads down so you can thread your nuts on and not dice your fingers one day.
Trying to find stainless carriage bolts long enough for my kettle was impossible also.
Trying to find stainless carriage bolts long enough for my kettle was impossible also.
nutty_gnome
Well-Known Member
From a practical standpoint, why are these built with three 'legs'? Two should suffice because gravity is going to keep the bag side down.
Also, why don't people use inexpensive turnbuckle bodies to create a 'press fit' below the edge of the kettle so that one can choose to use a pot lid if needed? They are 2 bucks at HD and you can use bolts as you see fit in the turnbuckle body rather than the eye bolts in the package. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...53&langId=-1&keyword=turnbuckle&storeId=10051
That said, I go commando and free-ball all my boils with no bags.
Also, why don't people use inexpensive turnbuckle bodies to create a 'press fit' below the edge of the kettle so that one can choose to use a pot lid if needed? They are 2 bucks at HD and you can use bolts as you see fit in the turnbuckle body rather than the eye bolts in the package. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...53&langId=-1&keyword=turnbuckle&storeId=10051
That said, I go commando and free-ball all my boils with no bags.
Bargain fittings has the best price around on step bits. He ships fast and sells em for about 13 bucks IIRC. Local box stores want way way more and theres is made in china. Give it a look before you buy.
Bob
Bob
HopsJunkie said:
You may want to tread the nut onto the rod prior to cutting it. After you've cut to length just twist the nut off to clean the threads. I have found that to be helpful..
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Three legs ARE better than just two. If the legs are bumped and it falls into the wort you are in for quite a fishing trip to get that thing out. If you bump a 3-legged spider one might fall, but the other two are there to keep it up out of the wort.
Similar threads
