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Old 02-06-2013, 07:22 PM   #41
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in-line flow controllers (at bottom left corner of webpage)

http://stcvalve.com/Stainless_Steel_Fitting.htm?gclid=CPOfk6rAorUCFUKd 4AodpnsAyg



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Old 02-06-2013, 07:54 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldies View Post
For my RIMS set up I will recirculate my mash water run through the rims tube until I get my desired strike temp and to ensure I wont lose a prime. After I mash in I let the grain settle for at least ten minutes. I then turn on my pump with the ball valve (On the outlet side of the pump) barely open. Once I can see things are flowing and I wont be getting a stuck mash I will then flick on my element switch set at the proper mash temp. Every 2-3 minutes after that I will open the ball valve a little at a time until I'm at proper flow rate. Once you tinker with your system you will know that "Sweet Spot". I never open my ball valve more than half way though. Also, some beers depeing on the grist will vary on how much I open my ball valve.
Coldies hit the nail on the head here ....you need to let the grain bed settle naturally before you start pulling on it with the pump. Even then, you need
to go slow with it so you don't end up compacting it and ending up with a stuck false bottom.


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Old 02-06-2013, 09:52 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtn_Brewer View Post
I previously looked into this extensively. March 809 pumps are brushless motors (see spec sheet below) and therefore need an electronic speed control (ESC), which is rather expensive. A ball valve is way cheaper and simpler, so that's what I went with.

If there is an engineer or electrician out there, further clarification would be appreciated .
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Originally Posted by BetterSense View Post
It is true that brushless motors must be controlled by modifying the electronic commutation. AC synchronous motors (probably what the March pumps use, also 'brushless') don't have any commutation and spin at mains frequency, so you would have to have an in-between complicated gizmo to change the rotation frequency.
The 110 VAC March 809 pumps (quit buying the inline, get the center inlet- there I said it) have a PSC motor, and can be controlled with a 'variable fan speed controller'. They look like old school wall dimmers with the tan knob, but are specifically for ceiling fans/PSC motors. They used to be ~$20 new, but I haven't seen a price lately. I believe they are TRIAC based. I think the typical numbers touted for use with these pumps are that speed can be safely reduced by about 50%. PWM speed controllers can also be used with PSC motors, and should provide a bit more useable range than the fan speed controller. WalterAtMarchPump has a post on the subject, and gave a blessing, of sorts, to their use.

I think I remember reading that the more common/cheaper Thyristor based wall dimmers (with the same tan knob look, but not the 'pot' based ones), will also work as a PSC motor speed controller, but with a much more limited range (due to overcurrent/undervoltage issues). I has to do with the trigger points differences (I think), of the Thyristor vs. the TRIAC

That ESC wiki link isn't applicable. It was referring to 3 phase and/or DC motors, and small RC motors at that. For 3 phase motor speed control, vector VFDs are the king of the hill.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:21 PM   #44
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All fixed and ready for round 2.



-Jason

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Old 03-20-2013, 04:38 PM   #45
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Jason Great Build . Do you have a parts list and where you purchased things from. I see you mentioned a couple of places in your first post but I was looking for a complete parts list if you have one. Thanks

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Old 03-21-2013, 04:43 PM   #46
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This is awesome! How much did this addition cost you? I too would be very interested in a parts list. Wouldn't mind seeing a few more detailed pictures of the heating element in its SS enclosure. Those clamps are beautiful.

Good work!

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Old 03-22-2013, 02:24 PM   #47
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Hey guys, I can take some more pictures tonight and get a better parts list.

Small update as well. I used this setup for the 3rd time last weekend and I think I got it figured out. For my 14 lb grain bill I added 1 lb of rice hulls and got the flow set just right I think. At the end of the mash I have never seen wort that clear!! Also I was able to control the temp much better at the higher flow then try 2. It only took 12 minutes to raise from 150 to 168 for mashout.

Try 1: 1/2lb rice hulls no flow control = block of concrete 58% efficiency wort with stuck sparge
Try 2: No rice hulls w/ flow control = better grain bed 70 ish% efficiency semi clear wort with ok sparge
Try 3: 1lb rice hulls w/ flow control = nice grain bed 81% efficiency very clear wort with easy sparge.


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Old 03-22-2013, 02:53 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonO
Hey guys, I can take some more pictures tonight and get a better parts list.

Small update as well. I used this setup for the 3rd time last weekend and I think I got it figured out. For my 14 lb grain bill I added 1 lb of rice hulls and got the flow set just right I think. At the end of the mash I have never seen wort that clear!! Also I was able to control the temp much better at the higher flow then try 2. It only took 12 minutes to raise from 150 to 168 for mashout.

Try 1: 1/2lb rice hulls no flow control = block of concrete 58% efficiency wort with stuck sparge
Try 2: No rice hulls w/ flow control = better grain bed 70 ish% efficiency semi clear wort with ok sparge
Try 3: 1lb rice hulls w/ flow control = nice grain bed 81% efficiency very clear wort with easy sparge.
That looks fantastic the clarity is unreal!!
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonO View Post
Hey guys, I can take some more pictures tonight and get a better parts list.

Small update as well. I used this setup for the 3rd time last weekend and I think I got it figured out. For my 14 lb grain bill I added 1 lb of rice hulls and got the flow set just right I think. At the end of the mash I have never seen wort that clear!! Also I was able to control the temp much better at the higher flow then try 2. It only took 12 minutes to raise from 150 to 168 for mashout.

Try 1: 1/2lb rice hulls no flow control = block of concrete 58% efficiency wort with stuck sparge
Try 2: No rice hulls w/ flow control = better grain bed 70 ish% efficiency semi clear wort with ok sparge
Try 3: 1lb rice hulls w/ flow control = nice grain bed 81% efficiency very clear wort with easy sparge.


Granted I know it depends on the rig but where did you have your valves set? I'm brewing with mine the first time tomorrow and want to get an idea
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:42 AM   #50
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Here's a better parts list. The inlet and outlet on my mash ton are both 1/2" barb. If I think of anything else I'll add it here. I'll add some more pictures in the next post.

Controller:

1x Radio Shack 270-1809 project box
2x Radio Shack 275-021 120vac Switch
1x Mypin T Series PIC controller w/40 amp SS Relay (Ebay)
1x Radio Shack CB/Ham Mic Plug Female
1x Radio Shack 4PIN DIN PNL Jack Male
1x Leviton R57-16352-0GS 20 Amp 120vac outlet

Other: I had the assorted wire and crimp connectors for the internals already. I added a old CPU heatsick to the SS Relay. Also the 120vac input plug I gutted from an old computer power supply.



RIMS Tube

From Brewers Hardware:
TWS16 16" Stainless Steel Thermowell
RIMS15 1.5" Tri Clover RIMS Tube
TC15F10NPSL 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Fitting
TPPT100TC153 Pt100 RTD Temperature Sensor in 1.5" Flange 3" penetration
TC15B12 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1/2" Hose Barb
TC15MOUNT Mounting Bracket for 1.5" RIMS Tube
TUBES12X34 Silicone Tubing 1/2"
Chugger Pumps:
SS Inline pump
Home Depot:
Camco 4500 watt element ( I think this is the part Model # 15184 Store SKU # 258184)
1x 1/2" NPT Brass Ball valve
1x Watts 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. Brass Barb x FIP Adapter
1x Watts 1/2 in. x 1/2 in. Brass Barb x MIP Adapter
6x 3/8 - 7/8 Stainless hose clamps
Other: Wood was left over from another project.
-Jason


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