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KramE 09-25-2012 12:41 PM

Help Needed! -Drilling Location for Ball Valve
 
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Hey all,

I have a 60qt Bayou Classic Aluminum kettle that I'm converting to eBIAB. Upon inspection, the pot has a significant curve from the base to the wall. From the bottom of the steamer basket to the bottom of the kettle is approx. 1.75" and I need 1.25" for the heating element.

I'm concerned if I drill only 0.25" from the bottom, not only will I not get a seal due to the curve, but the element will be at such an upward angle, that it will not fit due to contact with the basket.

I can obviously drill higher...but how much? Do I need to drill where it starts getting flat? Or can I cheat down a little and still try to clear the basket?

cooper 09-25-2012 12:59 PM

I would make sure that I drilled a hole as low as possible but still high enough to clear the floor with the bulkhead/sightglass/thermometer (obviously right?) and then worry about where to put the basket. You might have to rig something else in there to keep the bag off of the element.

Aschecte 09-25-2012 01:22 PM

^ +1 to this I would not drill at a .25 inch as you are correct in thinking it may not seal as well as you may carmelize or scorch the wort on the bottom. As for the basket is there a way you could measure how high above the bottom the basket sits ? then just drill abovee the bottom but below the basket.

KramE 09-25-2012 02:01 PM

I know where the bottom of the basket sits in relation to the wall. If I measured down, it would be pushing it very close to the curve.

It would be easy to make a spacer to lift the basket up....which looks like the safer route. Confirm?

Hmmessman 09-25-2012 02:47 PM

I have the 60 quart with a steamer basket. Mine has a half inch nipple welded on approximately two and a half inches from the bottom. It works great. If anything it could you be a little higher. The basket fits in with no restrictions.

rekoob 09-25-2012 02:48 PM

what kind of bulkhead fitting are you going to be using? Will you be welding or "soldering" a coupler in? If that's the case I wouldn't worry about the curve of the pot, you can tweak the coupler to make it straight.
If you will be using a weldless fitting I don't know if you can make it sit straight or not, I have't messed with them much but I am sure someone out there will have an answer.

cooper 09-25-2012 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KramE (Post 4442701)
I know where the bottom of the basket sits in relation to the wall. If I measured down, it would be pushing it very close to the curve.

It would be easy to make a spacer to lift the basket up....which looks like the safer route. Confirm?

I'd put the fittings where I wanted them and then lift the basket to whatever height it needs to be to cover it.

KramE 09-25-2012 08:57 PM

Hey all, thanks for all the responses.

I am using a weldless ball valve, and a 5500w element.

I decided to take a conservative approach and move my fittings up a bit. All the holes center at 2" and the basket blocks almost half of the hole.

I'm either going to put screws through basket perforations at the top to catch on the lip, or through the bottom to act as legs.

Any thoughts one way or the other?

speedoguy 09-25-2012 09:02 PM

I would put the bolts at the bottom to act as leg, that way you could still use the lip properly.

rekoob 09-26-2012 12:55 PM

+1 to the legs.


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