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Old 01-28-2011, 05:15 PM   #21
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FWIW, I have a dip tube installed and have no problems whatsoever with running or priming my mag drive pump. None!

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Old 01-28-2011, 05:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
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FWIW, I have a dip tube installed and have no problems whatsoever with running or priming my mag drive pump. None!
That's awesome. Mind posting pictures of a setup that is working out? I feel a lot of people say, "Mine works fine" but we never see them. Maybe pictures of setups that are working could help out those having trouble.
I haven't really dove into mine yet to try it out.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:01 PM   #23
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my diptube was trapping air in my line. What I had to do was, lift and lower the ss tubing until all the air was forced back into the keggle leaving the tubing full of wort. then once I hooked it up to the pump I could clearly hear the little bit of air that was in there leave the vent and it started to auto siphon before I even turn the pump on.

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Old 01-28-2011, 06:11 PM   #24
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Here's a setup that reliably primes itself without any monkey business.


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Old 01-28-2011, 06:41 PM   #25
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I don't understand why so many people have problems with pumps. It really isn't complicated, dip tubes or otherwise.

1. Water level in vessel must be higher than the highest point in the tubing leading to the inlet of the pump (water doesn't flow up hill).

2. To prime the pump, water must be able to flow freely. Open all downstream valves and reduce back pressure as much as possible. This is why dump valves work well.

3. flood the pump.

4. start/stop pump rapidly a few times to purge air pockets from pump head.

5. pump to your hearts content.

I have used March pumps in every config. possible and they work just fine in any orientation.

They do not produce a positive displacement so they cannot move air. You need liquid in the pump head before the pump will work.

Here is one setup, the pump is in the box in the arrangement shown in the OP but doesn't even have a dump valve or autovent. To prime, I lower the box until liquid flows naturally, then I am done and primed.

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Old 01-28-2011, 07:37 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
That's awesome. Mind posting pictures of a setup that is working out? I feel a lot of people say, "Mine works fine" but we never see them. Maybe pictures of setups that are working could help out those having trouble.
I haven't really dove into mine yet to try it out.
This is the 1/2" ID DIP Tube/Siphon Tube


This shows the pump w/dump valve, flow control valve and vacuum gauge mounted on a swiveling wood base:


I close the flow control valve and open the dump valve and start the pump. As soon as I get a forceful flow from the dump valve (about 2 seconds) I close the dump valve and open the flow control valve to start pumping. This method is quick and reliable. It literally never fails and it's extraordinarily easy. I find it puzzling that there are so many posts reporting difficulty with priming or losing prime with their mag drive pumps. It's really not difficult to use these pumps.

IMO, for optimum pump performance, use large ID hose or pipe, keep hoses or pipe as short as conveniently possible and use the fewest number of fittings possible.
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Old 01-29-2011, 03:47 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
If Flomaster's pump were rotated 90º clockwise, the the exit would be top dead center.
B_K, I find this wrong rotating the pump from vertical inlet / outlet 90 degress clockwise to the horizontal position as the exit at "top dead center", inside the pump is not at the top for the outlet port.
If you rotate the head from vertical inlet / outlet clockwise 66 degrees this will place the outlet discharge inside the pump at the top of the impeller chamber or straight up at the highest point to best vent air from inside the pump. Adding to this 66 degrees or 24 degrees discharge pointed upwards on my Chugger pump.
Installing the March HF impeller having longer impeller blades this reducing the impeller tip to pump body OD clearance from .374" to .135" can only help with catching pump prime. I had to spout off.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:14 PM   #28
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I was having a hard time the first time I used my pumps. I found that there were two things causing a problem.

First, I was using quick disconnects hooked up to barbs with hose fittings. Once the o-ring in the hose fittings got warm, they started introducing bubbles into my lines. What I thought was tight before I started brewing proved to be very loose once it got warm. To solve this, I just tightened all my hose fittings when everything was hot (wear gloves). I stopped getting bubbles in the lines after that. If you have clear lines, check them for small bubbles like you see from CO2 in beer or soda. If you have bubbles, you are going to get a stuck pump.

Second, my orientation of the pump head was wrong. Turning it so the outlet was pointing up like on the Brutus 10 solved my problem completely. No need for any bleeding value or vent. Just let it fill from the bottom with your outlet valve open. Once it's full and you see fluid in the outlet line, turn the pump on.

I think the biggest reason that having your outlet point up works is because your INLET is pointing DOWN. This means that all the bubbles have to go through the outlet, they cannot travel down into the inlet. If you have the inlet coming in horizontally from the side, it lets bubbles travel back up the inlet. If you are using a dip stick on the inlet side, bubbles in the inlet side will kill your siphon.

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Old 01-30-2011, 05:58 PM   #29
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IMO & IME, the pump head orientation doesn't matter if you have a dump valve installed and any air trapped in the dip tube can be very easily purged as well.

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Old 01-31-2011, 04:51 PM   #30
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Bendiy, that's a great point about the orientation of the inlet being more important than the outlet. Whatever method you use, the most important thing is purging all the air from the inlet side. Diptubes, leaky fittings, and having your pump as a high spot that traps air in the impeller housing are all the usual suspects.

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