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Old 08-11-2009, 12:39 AM   #1
jordanpace
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Default help on e-HERMS wiring

I have been out of the country for awhile, but back to brewing.

However, I have run into a problem.
Before I left, I converted my brutus-10 style sculpture to a e-HERMS.

I am running two 5500 heating elements in both my HLT and Boil kettle.

Currently I have everything wired up like this


Except the elements are running off 220VAC and I'm using a BrewTroller.

The problem that I am having is... When I choose to turn on my heating elements, nothing happens. Although I do get signal that the BrewTroller is telling the SSRs to switch on. But I get nothing to the elements, even though they should be getting power from the 220VAC 60amp.

Is there a different way to wire this thing up using 220VAC as apposed to using 110VAC?

I am heading out to my house again right now to make sure everything is hooked up properly and I will take some pictures of my wiring. Here is something I drew up with paint of how I have it wired up at the moment. (Not 100% drawn up but maybe you can get the idea. pic is probably really big too.)


Basically I have my SSRs wired up the same as in the first picture, sorry if all the crossing lines are confusing.

Does anyone have some input?

I would just like to say I am no electrician, and I hope I dont have something awful wired up that could kill me...



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Old 08-11-2009, 12:44 AM   #2
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Do you have a volt meter?



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Old 08-11-2009, 01:08 AM   #3
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i did until it got fried yesterday. plan on replacing that

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Old 08-11-2009, 01:09 AM   #4
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i do know that power is coming out of the breaker box to the 220VAC 60amp because it also operates my air compressor (when i have it plugged in)

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Old 08-11-2009, 01:59 AM   #5
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I don't see anything wrong assuming the (+) out of your Controller does indeed go to the (+) on the SSR and the (-) on your Controller does indeed go to the (-) on your SSR. What I would do is disconnect the power line connected to the SSR (leaving the controller connected to the SSR) and take an ohmmeter between the L1 and T1 terminals of the SSR. If the Controller calls for heat you should see the resistance drop. If you don't see the resistance drop either you have a bad SSR or controller. You can verify that the controller is working by putting a voltmeter ( in DC Volts mode) across the A1 and A2 terminals. If the controller calls for heat the voltmeter should rise to between 10 or 20 volts. If it does not the controller is bad. If both the Controller and SSR test good there is a problem with your 220VAC going to the SSR.

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Old 08-11-2009, 03:33 AM   #6
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thx Sawdustguy, will get another voltmeter tomorrow and try that out

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Old 08-11-2009, 09:46 PM   #7
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Are your SSR's switched by DC or AC?

Brewtroller outputs 12VDC to switch the SSR, your PID may be using AC and your SSR's are possibly AC, and perhaps thats why they work with the Auber.

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Old 08-11-2009, 10:32 PM   #8
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Just remember the BT switches to GND. So meaning like if your going to be switching your HLT element it would be 12V+ on Pin one of the BT (the furthest pin to the left) and then the next pin would be - which is the switched pin.

I did that once, hooked the SSR up backwards and it didn't work very well.


The other thing you can test is when the BT has the output on make sure your getting 12v to the relay pins.

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Old 08-12-2009, 12:24 AM   #9
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Are you overloading the current drive capability of the BrewTroller output channels?



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