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Old 02-19-2012, 05:25 AM   #11
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For instance, I could send the 8V leg straight out to the valve and have the 16V leg go to the PID for switching?

If I were to get this transformer, would the two wires coming out of the secondary side be wired similarly...one to the valve, the other to the PID?

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Old 02-19-2012, 05:42 AM   #12
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This might help. Don't think of it as 8v & 16v but only 24v.

Separate the transformer outputs as 24vac & 24vac Return.

Wire pid terminal 14 to one lead on valve. Wire 24vac to common terminal of pole1 of dpdt switch. Wire AUTO terminal of dpdt pole1 to pid terminal 13. Wire MANUAL terminal of dpdt pole1 to pid terminal 14.

Wire 24vac Return to common terminal of dpdt pole2. Jumper AUTO & MANUAL terminals of dpdt pole2. Wire AUTO terminal of dpdt pole2 to other lead of valve.

I assumed your switches are dpdt (on-off-on) type.

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Old 02-19-2012, 01:58 PM   #13
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Yep they are...Thanks! I'll give it a shot today.

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Old 02-19-2012, 02:44 PM   #14
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The pid functions as a simple switch in the valve circuit. The dpdt switch either interrupts the circuit (off), enables the pid switch to control (auto), or bypasses the pid (manual). Using both poles of the dpdt allows for isolating the valve completely from the 24vac. Good luck.

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Old 02-19-2012, 02:58 PM   #15
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CollinsBrew,

It's been mentioned a few times so far. Your transformer is dead shorted with the way you have it wired.



You need to reconfigure the way you deliver the power to the devices involved.

I hope this helps.

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Old 02-19-2012, 04:11 PM   #16
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Ok... I messed with your picture a little bit and configured the wiring so that you will no longer have a shorted transformer. As best as I can follow your other wiring from the pictures, I think this change will get you where you need to be. (However, be sure to check it out before powering up again.)






I sure hope this helps.

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Old 02-19-2012, 07:01 PM   #17
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Thanks P-J. If I break the strip where you have it in the pic as my wiring is now, the two black lines go to pin 13 on the PID and the two red go to the manual side of my switch. Wouldn't I have to jumper that over to the AUTO side of the switch somehow to complete the circuit?

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Old 02-19-2012, 07:38 PM   #18
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Wouldnt it make more sense to replace the neutral with one of the phases?
Assuming the rest is wiered correctly ofcourse

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Old 02-19-2012, 08:01 PM   #19
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Collinsbrew

Are you working from a schematic or wiring diagram of some sort? Your pictures don't give a clear layout of your wiring to the pid, switch and valve. There are a few different ways to wire your setup. If I knew where your starting point was, I can certainly help you sort it out.

"Black to pid terminal 13". What is connected to pin 14 of pid?

"Red to manual terminal of switch". What is connected to the other two terminals of that pole of the switch? What's connected to the 3 terminals of the other pole of the switch?

What are the two leads to the valve connected to?

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Old 02-19-2012, 08:11 PM   #20
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The neutral to the valves? I thought about this and asked the question in some other threads about the TH and TR post on the honeywell vr8200 valves. I could run one leg to the valve and just have the other go where I currently have it. When the PID switches it will complete the circuit and would do the same when I move the switch to the MANUAL position.

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