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Old 05-17-2011, 03:14 PM   #1
ryandlf
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Default Help with Automated LP (Propane)

So after setting up my electric HERMS rig I have decided that I prefer to use my propane burner to heat the HERMS coil vessel and keep the mash up to temperature. So far I have been doing it manually, but that requires me to babysit the mash the entire way through and constantly light and adjust the burner. I'd rather be watching a movie during a 90 minute mash so...

I'd like to use these Honeywell parts for the solenoid and pilot light setup:

Standing Pilot Gas Valve
Pilot Burner
Thermocouple

The gas valve has a pressure rating of ½ psi, or 3.5 kPa. I am using a standard Bayou classic burner and hose with a 10 psi regulator. Do I ditch the current hose and just connect the solenoid directly to the gas tank with gas tubing? Do I need to buy some sort of regulator to go between the gas line and the tank? I guess i'm having a tough time understanding the difference between low pressure and what I currently have. Can I use these parts with a regular 20# propane tank?

Second, how do I connect the gas line to the pilot light? Is it copper tubing or what and how do I make the connections, compression fittings?

And last but not least is a wiring question. I currently have my controller set up where my Love controller controls a receptacle that I had the heating element plugged into. Its got an off and on switch and when its on it is being temperature controlled. I'd like to have a switch that can be set to auto (which allows the love controller to turn the solenoid on/off), an off position which is just off, and an on setting so that when I am doing my boil etc I don't have to use the temperature controller and the burner will just run. Is this possible? Anyone have a wiring diagram showing how to wire this up. Wiring my current controller is the extent of my electrical experience so i'm pretty dumb when it comes to that stuff, but I can certainly figure it out.

My inspiration is coming from this build. Sorry for all the noob questions, but you have to start somewhere right?

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Old 05-17-2011, 04:42 PM   #2
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Typically you will have your propane tank which is connected to a regulator which goes to your gas piping which is connected to a TEE which has a valve at each opening where one valve is for the pilot light and the other to the in port of the solenoid valve and from the outlet of the solenoid to the burner.

To plumb the pilot light you can use gas flex (the yellow flexible tube) or you can use copper fittings but I would not use compression fittings as threaded is safer in my opinion and will create a better seal with Teflon tape on the threads.

The regulator you have should work just fine, I would use it and see anyway before doing anything. The only thing that will happen is you will get a weak flame but i doubt it.

You will want to search for a 4 way switch on mcmastercarr.com such as this one (7343K881). You will connect your main hot wire to prong 3 on the switch, you will have one wire from the solenoid valve to prong one and the hot wire from the temp controller to prong 2. On prong 4 you will have another wire from the solenoid valve. When you get your switch you can contact the manufacturer for a wiring diagram as they are usually not supplied. Using this method your love controller will always be on as this should be wired thru a switch to cut the power to the entire unit, however when the switch is in the off position the signal it sends will not reach the solenoid valve.

Hope this helps

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Old 05-17-2011, 07:20 PM   #3
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Here are couple parts you are going to need to go with the parts you are planning to use:
Transformer to step 120 down to 24 VAC http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-A...0VA-11014000-p.
Low pressure LP conversion gas for burner jet fitting - 3/32" drill bit to drill out jet for low pressure.
Low Pressure Propane regulator to connect to tank http://www.amazon.com/Two-Stage-Regu.../dp/B000BRJOUO, connect 10 psi regulator to inlet or install a tank adapter and connect direct to tank.
The Honeywell valve is meant for low pressure (.5 psi or less), do not hook the 10 psi regulator to the valve as it will not operate. The flex hose between gas valve and burner can be one of the water heater flex lines from HD or Lowes.

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Old 05-17-2011, 07:27 PM   #4
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I think the solenoid valve also acts as a safety switch for the pilot light so that when the pilot light is out it does not allow gas to flow to the burner. Like this:



Is that some sort of copper tubing he is using to connect to the pilot light? Also what about the pressure thing? Does anyone have a picture of the connection from the gas tank to their brew rig? It seems that most use 1/2" threaded connections to run gas lines where they need to, but what about gas line to propane tank, where do I get a connection like that, Home Depot?

Will this work for the 4 way toggle switch?

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Old 05-17-2011, 07:35 PM   #5
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Is that valve already 24 vac? Why would I need to step it down? It also says it comes with a natural gas to lp conversion kit. Can I simply change the regulator I am using to a low pressure one without having to drill the burner? If not, does someone have a tutorial or something that shows how to drill the burner?

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Old 05-18-2011, 01:44 AM   #6
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The Honeywell valve is 24VAC controlled so you need a step down transformer to operate it, 120 Vac will burn up the solenoid coil inside. The pilot burner in the picture is hooked up with 1/4" soft copper tubing, and the smaller diameter tube is the thermocouple lead headed to the valve. The thermocouple generates power to hold the safety shutoff open when the pilot is burning, no pilot flame, no power for the safety shutoff, no gas flow. Just installing the low pressure regulator will not solve all the problems, the gas valve will work fine but the burner flame will be quite small. The burner gas jet fitting you have now has a small opening meant to limit flow at high pressure, without drilling it out to let enough gas flow at low pressure the flame will be about 1/2". Drilling the fitting is fairly easy, or you can purchase a low pressure propane gas jet fitting for $5 -$10.
Since the control for the gas valve is 24VAC you will need a 24V switch, or an unlighted switch. To wire up switch here is an example for a Love control and spark ignition https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/Ignition#, just substitute your gas valve for ignition module. Here is a bit more involved diagram for a control panel which uses the rotary, center off switches https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.l...79690350514498

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Old 05-18-2011, 04:34 AM   #7
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If I need a new regulator I might as well get the new fitting while i'm at it. I'm currently using just a regular turkey fryer hose that comes with the regulator and fitting all attached. Anyone have a link where I can find a low pressure fitting? How do I connect that regular mentioned earlier to the propane tank?

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Old 05-18-2011, 04:59 AM   #8
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And just to clarify about the 4 way switch. So the two prongs on the top position...one hot wire will come from the controller, the other hot wire will go to the power source. On the bottom prongs, one hot line will connect to the receptacle and the other is neutral. Does this make sense? When in the top position it will be auto and controlled by the controller, the bottom position will be always on.

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Old 05-18-2011, 12:04 PM   #9
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Morning bump. Anyone have any wiring pics that include 4 way switches?

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Old 05-19-2011, 02:44 AM   #10
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Here is what you need for the regulator http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/636...valve-knob.htm.
As to the switch wiring, center lug to step down transformer for valve, top to controller, bottom to power source. The object is to provide 110 VAC to the transformer when switch is in "Manual On" mode and, and when switched other direction it gets controlled by temperature controller. The switch you call 4 position, is known as double pole, double throw switch and it will have 6 connection points. If you do not want illuminated a switch then a single pole double throw switch with 3 connections will work, one with center off is preferred model.

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