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Old 10-23-2009, 02:20 AM   #31
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JB Weld.... unmistakeable

Pol, I figured you would probably know. That's a good thing. Just how foodsafe is the JB weld in boiling wort? Any aftertastes? Or anything noticeable?
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:23 AM   #32
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Pol, I figured you would probably know. That's a good thing. Just how foodsafe is the JB weld in boiling wort? Any aftertastes? Or anything noticeable?
I dont have it in mine wort or water... so, I dunno.

I do know that after it cures, it has a slippery oily like film on it. BUT I have used boiling water to help cure it (exothermic reaction) and it left the JB clean, no more oily surface. So, I suspect it cleans off and leaves nothing behind, I see a lot of ppl use it.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:28 AM   #33
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I dont have it in mine wort or water... so, I dunno.

I do know that after it cures, it has a slippery oily like film on it. BUT I have used boiling water to help cure it (exothermic reaction) and it left the JB clean, no more oily surface. So, I suspect it cleans off and leaves nothing behind, I see a lot of ppl use it.

So, I'm SWAG-ging to say that when it finally cures it will have a "plastic" finish that should be odorless and tasteless like most plastics after a good cleaning. Seems logical enough. Thanks.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:31 AM   #34
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So, I'm SWAG-ging to say that when it finally cures it will have a "plastic" finish that should be odorless and tasteless like most plastics after a good cleaning. Seems logical enough. Thanks.
Yes, that is my thought. I basically use JB for electrical connection potting. I have seen it used many times IN boiling wort and water, so I presume (stupid me) that means it is good to go

It is basically a very high temp epoxy.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:34 AM   #35
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Roqk,

IMO there is no point in using so much JB weld on the outside of the stick. I seal up the sticks internally w/ JB weld. The threads and element can be sealed from the inside whereby almost none of the sealant is in contact w/ the wort.

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Old 10-23-2009, 02:49 AM   #36
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Roqk,

IMO there is no point in using so much JB weld on the outside of the stick. I seal up the sticks internally w/ JB weld. The threads and element can be sealed from the inside whereby almost none of the sealant is in contact w/ the wort.
I suppose it could be just as beneficial just to make sure the threads are sealed properly and not goop the JB-weld all over the nut. But, if a lot of other homebrewers have not had a problem with odor or taste and have boiled many times with the heat-sticks. Then I would say I'm satisfied. The reason I'm asking these questions and getting off topic, is that I plan to go all electric next year. Trying to get my homework in so that the transition is smooth. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:51 AM   #37
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I suppose it could be just as beneficial just to make sure the threads are sealed properly and not goop the JB-weld all over the nut. But, if a lot of other homebrewers have not had a problem with odor or taste and have boiled many times with the heat-sticks. Then I would say I'm satisfied. The reason I'm asking these questions and getting off topic, is that I plan to go all electric next year. Trying to get my homework in so that the transition is smooth. Thanks for the reply.
You can easily mount the element in the kettle, no heatstick required.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:56 AM   #38
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You can easily mount the element in the kettle, no heatstick required.
Yes, I know.

Hence your thread: BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion. Very good write up and advice. Thanks again.
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:02 AM   #39
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Reason i don't like a tube of JB all over the heatstick is that after a few boils it starts to show its age and gets kind of nasty...that's all, I'm told that cured epoxy is inert, but eventually it looks foul and will chip off. W/ proper workmansip you don't need to see any JB.

I have thought about mounting the element in my kettle, but the simplicity of using the same element in the HLT, MT and Kettle is the route I've chosen.

Heatsticks are pretty much for the "less is more" type mentality...Pol, your not the target audience, that's a compliment!

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Old 10-23-2009, 04:09 AM   #40
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That is def. 120VAC, looks like 120VAC and 20A circuit
That plug is only rated for 15amps. A 120v 20 amp plug has a horizontal neutral prong.


I am going to make one for my HLT, but ill go with a 240v setup since i all ready have it for my table saw and air compressor. which looks like this.
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