Heatstick = awesome! - Page 16

**passedpawn** · 11-16-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pickngrin

I bought a 2000W element over the weekend. However, I'm hesitating as to what wattage (almost sounds like stuttering there!) to do. I wonder if I'm better off with two 1500 watt sticks? I'm concerned about access to outlets on different circuits and generating enough heat to make these worthwhile (eg, for indoor all-grain brewing). I have one 20-amp outlet in my kitchen (inside a cabinet, actually).
What would you do?

I'd put together the 2k element and hope for the best. If you insulate your pot with some hot water heater insulation from HD you will get decent boil times. Turn off that breaker and figure out everything else that is on it and make sure not to use that stuff while heating!

BTW, your screen name reminds me of the old Hee Haw show, where the guitar and banjo guys would say "I'm a pickin', and he's a grinnin'".

aekdbbop · 11-19-2009, 03:23 PM

Just used my 2000w 120v heatstick last night.. had to get a 20amp outlet..

heated 8 gallons in a cool garage from 85f to 180f in about an hour.

pretty happy with it.. easy to make.. and it will surely lower my propane usage..

**android** · 11-24-2009, 01:26 AM

i'm totally in on this... made a 1500W one and a 2000W one, with the combo, it brought 8 gallons of water from 50-160 in about 40 mins. that is roughly the same rate as it takes me to heat with propane, so needless to say, i'm stoked! i'm brewing with them tomorrow. i think i'll still use propane to maintain the boil, but if i'm feelin' lucky, i'll use the heatsticks. thanks for this post.

zanemoseley · 11-27-2009, 06:41 PM

So what is the consensus on the materials used in the cedarcreek DIY guide? Are the safe from leeching in water as well as wort? I'm thinking of making a 1500w one to help heat water/wort when brewing with NG outside.

tlarham · 11-28-2009, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zanemoseley

So what is the consensus on the materials used in the cedarcreek DIY guide? Are the safe from leeching in water as well as wort? I'm thinking of making a 1500w one to help heat water/wort when brewing with NG outside.

I just built a 1500w heatstick using the cedarcreek guide and it has worked great -- I love it. I use mine to supplement the propane (i.e. heating the strike water right in my mashtun, and then heating in my hlt while the mash is going -- timed out perfectly, and then of course boosting my kettle boil).

No leaks so far (I really went to task with the JB weld), but the first time I used it the cord fell against my burner stand and melted -- there was much cursing.

-- T

speedyox · 11-30-2009, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zanemoseley

So what is the consensus on the materials used in the cedarcreek DIY guide? Are the safe from leeching in water as well as wort? I'm thinking of making a 1500w one to help heat water/wort when brewing with NG outside.

I'm interested in the consensus about material safety as well.

Are the nuts that come with the drain pipes really zinc?

Is chrome plated brass really safe for water/wort?

**BrewBeemer** · 12-01-2009, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevehaun

Let me preface my comments by saying that I am not an expert in electricity. That is why I had my plans evaluated by an electrical engineer who is also a licensed electrician. He also looked over my control box before I plugged it in. He specifically told me that I did not need to control both limbs of a 240 vac circuit. He did instruct me to install a dpst switch on the circuit. I would have gladly stayed out of this pissing contest but I was quoted out of context:

"stevehaun; reply #56 like bakins,"I run one hot directly to the element and the other hot is switched by the SSR..."

Now to brewbeemer's example: "To rely on reaching over to this DPST "kill switch" while your hung up being electrocuted is a joke! There is no way in hell while your nervous and muscle system are over powered by an electrical shock and still be able to do a normal thinking and body function like flipping that DPST switch."

I agree with your comment. However, you overall logic on this topic is flawed. If you are being electrocuted by the 240 vac circuit controlled by your DSSR, you would still have to reach over and turn off your PID to stop the electrical shock. This is no different than flipping the DPST switch. I really don't see how using a DSSR is inherently safer than using a single SSR. The only time I have my DPST switch on is when I am heating water or wort. Otherwise the circuit is turned off - no current to either limb of the 240 vac circuit. The PID and SSR is only used to control the circuit when it is turned on. I do not use the PID/SSR to turn the heating elements on and off.

Here is literature from Watlow that shows how to wire a SSR for a 240 vac circuit controlling a heater. They show controlling only one limb of the 240 vac circuit.

http://www.watlow.com/literature/prodtechinfo/files/controllers/ssre_c.pdf

There is nothing wrong with using a DSSR but it is not the only way to control a 240 vac circuit safely.

Steve; I and my state have our state license as IBEW union wiremen electricians the past 5 years, i'm licensed plus not your normal homebrewer just passing on safety issues about bad wiring electric heating systems i've seem on this forum many times. Nuff from me it's your azz wire it to how you wish as you can only die once. Get a system approved by UL standards then i'll be impressed. Back to my cave to read and enjoy the postings.

OhioBrewingTechnologies · 12-01-2009, 01:25 AM

I'm just curious. Of all the hazards of brewing, is anyone willing to admit to being zapped? Or do you know someone who has? Being zapped should require more than one concurrent mistake. If anyone has done it I'm curious how it happened and what went wrong.

Dan

**wilserbrewer** · 12-01-2009, 02:09 AM

tlarham, JMO, but that extension cord might be a bit thin?? Keep an eye on it that it doesn't get to warm. Also, I believe running a thin cord will result in voltage drop, which will give you less heat.

Kauai_Kahuna · 12-01-2009, 07:07 AM

Quick question, I do stove top brewing in my apartment, and I can get a slow rolling kind of boil in my insulated 7.5 aluminium pot. But reaching that boil can take over an hour, and heating up the mash water also adds another half hour or so.
Would a 1500 watt heat stick be worth making?
How much time would it cut off of heating?
I know it would add enough heat to get a strong boil, which would be nice.