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Old 11-08-2009, 12:48 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Hot water heaters have a sacrificial element to them that dissolves instead of the zinc. Brew kettles do not have this.
Then,.... the question that begs to be answered is: "Are these heatsticks safe for use in home brewing?"
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:53 PM   #102
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We may all die... we may.

How much zinc does it contribute to a 5 gal. brew? Hrmm, dunno, someone needs to have that tested.

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Old 11-08-2009, 01:01 PM   #103
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I guess that unless your intake is less than 4 grams it shouold be ok. I can't imagine 4 grams coming off of a heatstick at any time

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Old 11-08-2009, 03:56 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by huntsman View Post
I would think that it'd be ok since a lot of homes in the US use them everyday to heat hot water. However, I'm no expert. I,too, do not know the implications of heating water to the boiling point with a zinc coated element, much heating a wort to boiling.....and then consuming that hot water/wort

input anyone???
Well, I also don't consume hot water from the tap. I only use cold for cooking/drinking, then heat it if needed. (Although, that's just out of habit from when I had an electric water heater. I have a gas water heater now.)
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:59 PM   #105
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Interesting. I use a turkey fryer/propane burner setup and was recently musing about the possibility of a heat stick. I need to give this a shot. Thanks

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Old 11-08-2009, 11:47 PM   #106
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i would like to build a cooler with 2 of these mounted inside to boil anyone seen a build like this ?

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Old 11-08-2009, 11:55 PM   #107
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You don't want water in your cooler to get hot enough to boil.

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Old 11-09-2009, 12:21 AM   #108
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guess the heat sticks are he best option then thanks

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Old 11-09-2009, 10:02 AM   #109
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SO, you cant find one that keeps a leg energized? Yet it is "normal on this forum". That is all I was wondering, because it appears you make things up, so that you can rant.

I know this forum is open to ideas an opinions. But making things up? Hardly. Just calling it as I see it.

Heh, that is all I wanted to know, and the other posters to know. It is not normal here for people to build such circuits, that is false.
Pol; go back to 11-30-08, title by you as 3,500, 4,500 or 5,500W,
on page 6 posting #51 by you "(2) hots running to the SSR and out to the element". I've never seen a SSR that has connections for two hots or 240 volts, no way, a SSRD yes.

Reply #52 by bakins; "circuit #1 30A 240 V, 1 hot to element,1 hot to SSR".
This allows for a energized back feed and unsafe wiring practices plain and simple.

Pol reply #53, "meaning I can get by with the 25A SSR and heat sink as I cannot find a 6,500W that is low density I will be using a low density 5,500W element". That sure sounds like a 240 volt power to the element with a SSR not a SSRD or two SSRs for again a energized back fed system.

stevehaun; reply #56 like bakins,"I run one hot directly to the element and the other hot is switched by the SSR..

Smartest wiring system by CodeRage which is also his high electrical standards, "I use 2 SSRs on both sides of the 240 volt element".

My reply from above statements I didn't pull out of my ass, pulled from this forum. There are other wiring diagrams posted by other members that had some unsafe design builds.

I do not "because it appears you make things up, so that you can rant", those are your remarks Pol.

For someone who at one time who stated they wanted nothing to do with electric heating in the past, called "PID crap" you sure have done a flip flop
over time. You do make my day and worth a laugh at times, keep it up.
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:14 PM   #110
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Quote:
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You don't want water in your cooler to get hot enough to boil.
This is very true, the liner in the cooler will become compromised.
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