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Old 12-17-2009, 05:46 PM   #81
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Landin, a suggestion.
Make the fan that flows cold air into the beer line tube run full time, NOT just when the compressor runs.
The tube will warm up above 38* before the compressor kicks on and the CO2 will break out of the beer.

I've helped a lot of people out on regular kegerators (Summit/Sanyo/Danby/True, etc.) all benefit from tower cooling tremendously. Don't see why this little addition couldn't help you as well.
I've read up a lot at Micromatic's forum. Take a gander over there and see some of the ways people have built tower coolers well.

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Old 12-17-2009, 06:02 PM   #82
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Landin, a suggestion.
Make the fan that flows cold air into the beer line tube run full time, NOT just when the compressor runs.
Thanks for the tip!

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Old 12-17-2009, 06:11 PM   #83
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Landin, i was refering to the fram aroune the entire top? how is that attached? Only to the plywood on the freezer lid?
Yes. There are 3 pieces of trim going on there. They are all wood-glued, corners cut on 45's, and pneumatically stapled in place. The widest piece is vertical under the 3/4 plywood. Then a skinnier piece along the outer edge of the plywood, flush with the plywood surface. The third piece is a wider horizontal overhang on the plywood surface and the second piece of trim. It's all bound together really solid, and all corners are cross-stapled.

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Old 12-29-2009, 04:30 PM   #84
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Not secured, though they fit pretty snug. The duct is easily removable. To do so I just back-off the shank nuts nearly all the way and push the shanks forward (extending them out of the coffin) which allows them to "leave" the duct. Then the duct can be lifted out of the female bases and laid down. All the while the beer lines are sliding out the holes (still attached to the shanks) allowing me to change a line, etc.

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Are those 4" shanks? Did you estimate right on the length you needed?

EDIT: Never mind I found the parts list. Just ordered my taps and shanks from Rapids Wholesale. Now to start construction
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