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03-09-2009, 02:54 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Pea Green, Colorado
Posts: 2,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerklein2
On the heater, what might help is getting a passive heater and putting it at the bottom of your kiln and putting a fan at the top. That ducting you are using is probably just too constricting for the fan on that heater. It can't handle the pressure drop you are putting on it. You could also shorten the ducting as much as possible. That would help as well.
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There is no fan on the heater at all, the fan on the outlet duct is pulling vacuum on the whole system. The vacuum is what is putting out the flame, I think you are right about the duct size though, maybe bigger ducting between the heater and kiln for less vacuum, maybe holes in the back of the Mr. heater shroud? I need something to allow more heat to go in without drawing in outside (unheated) air. When I first tested the system it was 70F ambient, that allowed me to pull in 150F through the kiln , but heater wouldn't stay on for over 15 min's appx.
Thanx! Vern.
Last edited by COLObrewer; 03-09-2009 at 03:03 PM.
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03-09-2009, 03:40 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SW Oregon
Posts: 510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLObrewer
The only difference I've learned of are between 6 row and 2 row, I presume this is 6 row, but I have some planted on the window sill in the kitchen to see for sure. It will make fine beer either way! 
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A bit of information on grading below. 6-row= kernels all the way around the barley head (comes out to 6 rows) 2-row= only two rows (opposite from each other) around the head.
Feed grade barley is lower in weight per bushel, less quality all around. Could be caused by not enough rain, rain at the wrong time, poor weed/soil management, poor quality seed. No farmer wants to hear that any wheat, durum or barley crop has been judged "feed quality"=low $$; unless you planted barley for that purpose. When you have a contract with, say A-B, you do not want to hear that your 400-800 bushel truckload has been rejected as malting barley, either!!
Feeding Barley to Swine & Poultry.
__________________
I used to be dyslexic, but am KO now!!
Enola Gay--Far East Tour Summer '45--Coming to Your Town, Limited Engagement--Get Your Seats Now!!--They'll Be Gone in a Flash!!
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03-09-2009, 06:02 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Pea Green, Colorado
Posts: 2,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete08
A bit of information on grading below. 6-row= kernels all the way around the barley head (comes out to 6 rows) 2-row= only two rows (opposite from each other) around the head.
Feed grade barley is lower in weight per bushel, less quality all around. Could be caused by not enough rain, rain at the wrong time, poor weed/soil management, poor quality seed. No farmer wants to hear that any wheat, durum or barley crop has been judged "feed quality"=low $$; unless you planted barley for that purpose. When you have a contract with, say A-B, you do not want to hear that your 400-800 bushel truckload has been rejected as malting barley, either!!
Feeding Barley to Swine & Poultry.
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Ok? I'm not sure what you are saying but from reading the posted link it appears that "feed" barley and "malt" barley are interchangeable, the difference is that feed barley is possibly rejected malt barley due to some tested deficiency. The barley I am using, I'm almost certain, has had no testing whatsoever.
I.E. Farmer Joe brings in a bunch of last years "feed" barley to the elevator and says "Horace, can you have yer son clean up a few hunderd pounds a this barley so's I can plant some more?", Horace says "Sure, you want to pay me fer it or just hold some back to sell as payment?" Joe: "Ah just hold some back again" . . . Months later along comes Vern, "Hey Horace, you have any malting barley?" Horace: "Well, I have some barley left over from Joe's seed barley", Vern: "Do you know if it's two row or six row?" Horace: "No, no idea, it's just what he let me keep for payment" Vern: "Has it been treated in any way?", Horace: "Nope, just cleaned", etc, etc, etc, . . now we all know the true story (to date) of "Vern and the barley stalk" or "How to become a master maltster in 4 easy steps" Hehe 
Edit: After reading further, what is more interesting to me is: If winter barley has more or less diastatic power than summer barley, both are grown here.
Last edited by COLObrewer; 03-09-2009 at 06:18 PM.
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03-09-2009, 07:45 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 709
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Amazing stuff, thanks for all the info!
__________________
Current Rig
4.5KW E-HLT
5.5KW E-Kettle
MasterFlex Peristaltic Primary Pump
March Secondary Pump
Therminator for Chilling
Planned
Automated Grain Drop
Automated Hop Dropper
System controlled via BrewTroller
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03-09-2009, 07:49 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLObrewer
Edit: After reading further, what is more interesting to me is: If winter barley has more or less diastatic power than summer barley, both are grown here.
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Some interesting reading: http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/publications.htm?seq_no_115=175232 It talks about a specific winter barley cultivar, but it has some interesting general info as well- namely that pretty much all malted barley is from spring barley.
__________________
Primary:
Secondary: Bee Cave Robust Porter (with coconut)
Kegged: Cascade/Citra Amber Ale
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03-09-2009, 07:51 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Austin
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLObrewer
There is no fan on the heater at all, the fan on the outlet duct is pulling vacuum on the whole system. The vacuum is what is putting out the flame, I think you are right about the duct size though, maybe bigger ducting between the heater and kiln for less vacuum, maybe holes in the back of the Mr. heater shroud? I need something to allow more heat to go in without drawing in outside (unheated) air. When I first tested the system it was 70F ambient, that allowed me to pull in 150F through the kiln , but heater wouldn't stay on for over 15 min's appx.
Thanx! Vern.
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Ok, then you are going to want to open up the inlet that is allowing air to flow into the heater and through the duct. Shortening and widening your ducting will also help. What is probably happening is that the pressure drop in your current system builds up a vacuum and then starves your flame of oxygen and puts it out.
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03-09-2009, 08:23 PM
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#27
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Swing the BIG hammer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,433
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This thread really needs to be in the brew science forum.... *subscribed*
Great info....
__________________
North Saint Paul Brewshack
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmendez29
Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
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Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
Primary:empty
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03-09-2009, 08:27 PM
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#28
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Swing the BIG hammer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLObrewer
3. Need capability for more heat and possibly more air flow through the kiln for better efficiency and ability to do crystal and other specialty malts/grains.
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any way to fix a screen lined drum from a home clothes dryer inside your kiln? I'm seeing reduced gearing to provide slow turning on the drum... I cant imagine being able to dry more than 30 lbs a drum.... maybe two drums installed in the same kiln....
__________________
North Saint Paul Brewshack
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmendez29
Mom was right. Never argue with an idiot. They just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
Where's my beer. I know I left it around here somewhere.....
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Kegged/Drinking:Nihilistic Integrity - Black IPA, #1 BIAB pale ale, Bells Two Hearted - yes a keg of the real stuff
Kegged/Conditioning:Wally N Seans Braggot, Emerald Eyes - Irish Red, Atomic Tsunami - brown
Primary:empty
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03-09-2009, 08:50 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Pea Green, Colorado
Posts: 2,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerklein2
Ok, then you are going to want to open up the inlet that is allowing air to flow into the heater and through the duct. Shortening and widening your ducting will also help. What is probably happening is that the pressure drop in your current system builds up a vacuum and then starves your flame of oxygen and puts it out.
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I'll try moving the head away from the heater further, and/or trying a bigger duct, maybe larger than the heater head to let air flow past it., Thanx! 
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03-09-2009, 08:54 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Pea Green, Colorado
Posts: 2,592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seabee John
any way to fix a screen lined drum from a home clothes dryer inside your kiln? I'm seeing reduced gearing to provide slow turning on the drum... I cant imagine being able to dry more than 30 lbs a drum.... maybe two drums installed in the same kiln....
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Was thinking along the same lines, a dryer drum may be too big, but. . . wait . . . maybe one from those small over/under washer dryer units? I was thinking of building some from round plywood disks on each end, with screen wrapped around, the dried roots would fall right out the screen holes. Even a manually operated one would be a step up from hand turning the malt on trays, wouldn't even have to open the door.  Sweet!!!
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