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Old 06-21-2013, 03:02 AM   #11
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I ferment in mine as well already. I do 10 gallon batches which is actually 11 with trub and yeast lost. I'm just thinking of a cool and cheap way to make them into nicer fermenters. I like the idea of flipping it over.

What type and size fittings do I need to fit the sanke tap?

I'm wanting to wrap them in copper lines and make them glycol chilled eventually. I think they will be economical and awesome
What part of your plan do you think will be an improvement? Not trying to dissuade you, just curious.

A 2" tri-clamp fitting fits perfectly on a standard type D sankey neck. You'll likely need to either trim a standard tri-clamp gasket, or make your own gaskets out of silicone baking sheets or similar material though.

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I've thought about dump valves but have also read that you need a good angle on bottom for trub and yeast to slide down.
Typically 60° is considered the minimum angle for the trub to slide properly, but it doesn't need to be quite that steep if it's highly polished. The slight angle on either end of a sankey isn't enough to get the trub to move at all.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:42 AM   #12
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I've had different ideas in my mind of what to do but I wanted to put it to everyone else to see if anyone has done it or if there was any different ideas.
I will put up a build thread of me making these probably.

In the end this is what I want and plan to do.

I want them on legs, I would like the top open enough to get my arms in to clean and work on, eventually with glycol jackted lines around them.

To accomplish I will make leg frame that they sit on but can be removed easily.
Turn upside down and put dump valve to pull yeast off with and a side valve to pull clean beer off.
Cut the bottom of the keg open(which when it's turned over will be the top) and find stainless lid and a gasket for that
And then wrap tightly with copper lines going to pump and tank in freezer with glycol.

Any suggestions, comments, websites that could help me with this?

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Old 06-21-2013, 02:38 PM   #13
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How large of bath sizes are you putting in each ?
I get 12-13 gallons of finished beer out of one 15.5 gallon sanke keg fermenter.
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:47 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by josterhues View Post
I've had different ideas in my mind of what to do but I wanted to put it to everyone else to see if anyone has done it or if there was any different ideas.
I will put up a build thread of me making these probably.

In the end this is what I want and plan to do.

I want them on legs, I would like the top open enough to get my arms in to clean and work on, eventually with glycol jackted lines around them.

To accomplish I will make leg frame that they sit on but can be removed easily.
Turn upside down and put dump valve to pull yeast off with and a side valve to pull clean beer off.
Cut the bottom of the keg open(which when it's turned over will be the top) and find stainless lid and a gasket for that
And then wrap tightly with copper lines going to pump and tank in freezer with glycol.

Any suggestions, comments, websites that could help me with this?
This is an awesome addition to a sanke fermener. http://www.brewershardware.com/sanke-fermenter-kits/

This cap makes it super easy to transfer the beer under pressure using CO2.

I use a standard fridge with a ranco controller for temp controlling the ferment. Most standard top freezer style fridges will hold a sanke keg.

I clean the sanke keg by inverting it over a sump pump and recirculating 180F PWB solution. 30 mins of recirculation and it's completely clean. Then rinse off the PWB with hot water.

I don't know if major modifications to the sanke keg are worth the effort. It would probably be more efficient to buy a conical or one of these: https://brewmagic.com/products/fermenters/brew-magic-fermenter
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:22 AM   #15
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Those brew magic fermenters are beautiful to me, but I don't have $600 to spend on one when I think I can build my own for a 1/3 of that.

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Old 06-24-2013, 07:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josterhues View Post
I've had different ideas in my mind of what to do but I wanted to put it to everyone else to see if anyone has done it or if there was any different ideas.
I will put up a build thread of me making these probably.

In the end this is what I want and plan to do.

I want them on legs, I would like the top open enough to get my arms in to clean and work on, eventually with glycol jackted lines around them.

To accomplish I will make leg frame that they sit on but can be removed easily.
Turn upside down and put dump valve to pull yeast off with and a side valve to pull clean beer off.
Cut the bottom of the keg open(which when it's turned over will be the top) and find stainless lid and a gasket for that
And then wrap tightly with copper lines going to pump and tank in freezer with glycol.

Any suggestions, comments, websites that could help me with this?
Not sure I can be much help other than giving you my thoughts that led to me stick with unmodified kegs. I can tell you that you won't be able to harvest yeast just by flipping the keg upside down and putting a valve on it. The only yeast that you'll be able to dump there is whatever settles in the neck, which is a tiny fraction of the yeast cake. You need something closer to a 60° cone to harvest yeast. For me, putting legs on would only cause complications without any benefit. Making the fermenter taller would just make fitting multiple fermenters in my ferm chamber more difficult. Drilling a hole and adding a valve wouldn't allow me to use them for pressurized fermentation, and creates another area that needs detail cleaning so that nasties don't hide in the small crevices. I transfer using pressure and the keg spear, which is super easy and works great. If I want to wash the yeast and store it, I simply add some sterile water to the yeast cake after transferring the beer, shake it to stir it into a slurry, and then transfer the slurry out using pressure. It would be nice to be able to reach inside the kegs, but that would once again prevent pressurized fermentation, or use for serving, and they're plenty easy to clean even without being able to put a hand inside.

The unmodified kegs work great with the system I use, and are very easy to ferment in, transfer beer out of, harvest yeast from, and clean. Leaving them unmodified also saved me a lot of time and money, and allows me to use the kegs for serving occasionally. That's not to say that it's the right way to do things, or that it's best for everyone though.

You mentioned many things you want to do to the kegs, but you still haven't said in what ways you think these changes will be an improvement over using the unmodified kegs.

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Originally Posted by josterhues View Post
Those brew magic fermenters are beautiful to me, but I don't have $600 to spend on one when I think I can build my own for a 1/3 of that.
I wouldn't use them even if they cost less than an unmodified keg. They'd take more time and effort to clean, I'm not sure I'd be able to safely ferment under pressure in them, and they wouldn't be any easier to fill, ferment in, or transfer beer out of. The only advantage for me would be the ability to reach inside, which for me is a very small advantage, and doesn't come close to outweighing the disadvantages.
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Yuri rubs it out with 60 grit... wouldn't even feel a tenga egg. -Randar

, place entry ox dixla to suck. Fcxk fwnpoo and passed. Hel an my spupid ass. OK. - TXCrash
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