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Old 06-20-2012, 03:08 AM   #21
jroot
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Here is a handy website that recommends what glues to use for several different materials - http://www.thistothat.com



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Old 06-20-2012, 03:10 AM   #22
lschiavo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJL
I've not had this issue yet, but I would probably use silicone caulk. Silicone is waterproof. It's flexible, so it shouldn't ever start to peel or crack. It bonds really well. It's waterproof and isn't really affected by temperature changes.
I've used silicone on 3 or 4 loose tops. Weigh it down and give it plenty of time to cure. Better than new IMO.


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Old 06-21-2012, 11:42 AM   #23
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Quick update: Well I went ahead and used the 2x faster drying Gorilla Glue. I made sure I scuffed the corney bottom with 100 grit sand paper as well as the inside of the rubber cap. I then cleaned both surfaces with acetone. Then using a damp cloth (I had an afterthought of using a spray bottle with a fine mist - it would have probably given a better uniform layer of moisture) moistened the two surfaces applied the gorilla glue in criss-cross patterns with only about 1/4" spacing between the lines and a nice bead at the top of the rubber cap....after 24 hours...it expanded just above the rim so I'll have just a little excess to cut off which is what Thargrav suggested. I like the way it cures and I don't think I should have a problem now. It didn't use much of the glue either - it was like $4 and something at Lowes and I didn't use more than 1/3 of the bottle. Now we'll see how it holds up to usage.

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Old 06-21-2012, 12:08 PM   #24
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I used marine JB Weld and it worked great. I like that it is not affected by moisture or heat. When you clean your corny, if you use hot water it can cause other adhesives to release. After using the JB Weld I put a bead of silicon caulk around the rim where the bottom and metal meet and smoothed it out. This worked well and will keep water and gunk from seeping into the cavity between the bottom bumper and the bottom of the metal on the corny. Good luck!

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