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Old 01-26-2012, 04:26 PM   #251
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Tom,

Great build! I've decided to base my build off of your set up. One thing I haven't figured out is where did you end up placing your manifold? Is it attached after one of the four regulators, or is it attached between the 4 and the regulator on the CO2?

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Old 01-26-2012, 04:39 PM   #252
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I have a primary regulator on the tank and a secondary regulator (bank of four) mounted to the back of the collar. There is no need for a manifold since I have a regulator for each keg.

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Old 01-26-2012, 07:20 PM   #253
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Best Buy has it delivered to my door for $206 w/ taxes total. I'm considering it since you can get 5 kegs in there.

I was really thinknig about something a sankey would fit in. Trying to weigh in how much that matters to me, or if after I use the sankey or fermentating (10 gal batches), just transfer it to two cornies and in they go.

When putting in or removing kegs, is it a big ordeal? are you pulling another keg up with you or is it just a little shimy to get it in and out?

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Old 01-26-2012, 07:51 PM   #254
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Correction, after thinking about it. It doesn't matter a sanke isn't going to fit in there. Now the question is for that price is it worth it for $10 to get the Frigidiare 7.2 Cu?

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Old 02-03-2012, 06:31 PM   #255
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A Sanke won't but a sixth barrel will and I have never had a problem getting a sixth from my local keg place.

For homebrew though yeah you are limited to the cornies.

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Old 02-03-2012, 06:36 PM   #256
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Got a PM about hinge mounting...

I've mentioned it before but the weak point seems to be the collar and not the hinges. I suggest getting a metal plate and drilling it out for a back plate, or that is what I would do if I did it over again anyway.

How I did it though was just long bolts, nuts and small backed washers. Not sure what they are called but they have depth to them and have a rubber backing. They seem to have gripped the wood without doing too much damage though I am very careful opening and closing the top.

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Old 02-04-2012, 01:41 AM   #257
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I did the exact same thing as TomSD on my unit. Although I haven't had any questionable incidents with lid (yet) I agree that the plate idea to add strength at the collar-hinge attachment joint is warranted. It may be something I will do if I run into a situation where I have to make a change, or if I get a bigger Keezer .

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Old 02-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #258
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Default Started my keezer build

Parts have been coming in for some time now but I've only started to do any kind of assembly this weekend. I don't see my version being much different from the ones posted on here for the sake of simplicity, but here is what I have so far. I couldn't find the 4" wheel that TomSD used so I worked with 3" that required four points of attachment instead.

2x6x8 @1
1x4x6 @ 2
2x4 pieces were scrap (2x4 - 20.5" @3)

I opted for including a 1x4 piece around the base to hide the casters, so you end up taking off 1.5" off each length & width to accommodate the additional piece. The trim pieces were assembled and attached using a Kreg jig.









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Old 02-29-2012, 08:42 AM   #259
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Continuing with the collar, I treated the wood just like the base trim with denatured alcohol and Minwax Ebony. One thing to notice with the bigger pieces is that DA dries FAST. When you apply the stain, it will not mix like oil and water. I just rub it with the stain pad until it emulsifies which doesn't take very long at all. It'll then look almost pitch black (too black), but after you let the stain set in, you just wipe/rub the excess off to your liking.



I was a bit concerned with cutting the seal on the lid but after studying this thread and poking about on my own, I found it came off easy with a sharp utility knife when cut on both sides.



and here


Here's the collar assembly sitting on the lid. You'll need to trim part of the little plastic ends (on the corner) a little to make sure things fit/align, which is easy with a utility knife.



Here's the finished collar. I brought it indoors after a couple days to help it cure at room temp for about a week.

Mapping out where the taps will go


Kegs will arrive sometime next week probably. This keezer project has to be back burnered for a little while to take care of more important things. At any rate, I should have this completed no later than 5 weeks time, since by then I should have 2-3 brews already in kegs.

One note about chalkboard paint. I didn't bother looking at an actual HD store for it since I looked online and it said it wasn't available in store. I was in Lowes last week and found Valspar brand for about $15 a quart. It's with their specialty paints area. I later went to HD and thought to check out their similarly placed items (these were next to the sprays behind the cage) and they have Rustoleum brand, which was $10 bucks a quart. AND I BOUGHT 3 at LOWES. AGH... Oh well. I did learn they both carry magnetic paint/undercoating which seems pretty interesting...

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Old 03-26-2012, 09:03 PM   #260
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Default A couple of questions...

Hello all,

I am working on this keezer project and have come to a point where i could use a little guidance.

I have my collar built and attached to the lid, but now i need to attach the collar to the freezer body using the stock hinges. Here's where i am getting a little confused...

When I place the collar on top of the freezer and line up the hinges to mark where to drill holes through the collar, i note that the hinges are angled slightly toward the collar in their closed position. It seems if i drill the holes without making some kind of adjustment, when i tighten the bolts to attach the hinge to the collar, they would want to lift up the back end of the collar slightly which could mess up the seal??? i don't know if this makes sense or not, or if this is anything that i need to worry about...

so, in general, my question is -- how did those successful with the project drill holes through the collar for the hinge bolts?

Thanks in advance for any advice! I'd hate to mess something up now...

Jeff

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