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Old 07-13-2013, 01:41 AM   #181
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This is the RTD I am using (the deluxe model)
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&produ cts_id=267

The part external to the control panel is shielded but the inside section is not. Should/Can I make a change here that would help? I will pick up the sleeve tomorrow and try it out. I am a little confuse of where to put the sleeve/sleeves. Close to the panel? Exterior or Interior. I guess I am thinking it should be clamped as close to the PID as possible. Is this correct?



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Old 07-13-2013, 03:23 AM   #182
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From the picture of the probe, the wires are not shielded and are acting like an antenna for the spark module noise. A quick and cheap test is aluminum foil wrapped around the temperature sensor leads with a bare copper wire for grounding running a few inches into and in contact with the foil, then attached to the frame to direct noise away from the controller input. A better solution would be a shielded 20 Ga 3 conductor cable to replace the unshielded wires shown that is meant to minimize the noise pickup.
As to the ferrite sleeves, as close to the controller as possible is the normal installation location.



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Old 07-13-2013, 07:04 AM   #183
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You could also switch out the 1/4" copper pilot tube with 1/4" aluminum pilot tubing. This should reduce the conductivity.

http://www.pexsupply.com/Robertshaw-11-293-1-4-x-5-Pilot-Burner-Tubing-w-Fittings

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Old 07-14-2013, 01:32 AM   #184
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The ferrite sleeves worked. I also had to hook the ground up in this manner.
Igniter to ignition module and also gas controller to frame.
Thanks for all your help



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Old 07-26-2013, 11:17 PM   #185
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Hi everyone, been on this forum for a while and just now realizing that this is my first post.

Anyways I just got in a bunch of my parts to get this thing set up and I did a dry run with out hooking anything up to the gas, just all the electrical stuff to see if I could get it to work. To my surprise when the PID called for heat I got spark and everything on the first try and then it eventually timed itself out. Here are my questions: Is there a thermocouple that is suppose to be hooked up separately to the pilot light? How does the system know that the pilot is lit? Secondly I have no idea how to connect the 1/4" copper pilot tube. All I have is what appears to be a brass fitting that screws into the gas valve that has a 1/4" hole through it. While the tube fits pretty snug in there I don't see how its suppose to compress to form a seal.

Any help would be great. I'll post pics of the system once its finished.

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Old 07-27-2013, 01:00 AM   #186
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The rod that the igniter is sparking off of is also a flame sensor. Let me know if you would like a few pics as I have the same set up.

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Old 07-27-2013, 04:45 AM   #187
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Saj,
Insert the copper tube into the fitting until it bottoms out, then screw the fitting in about 1-1/2 turns, which compresses the internal ferrule around the tube to make a seal. This is a one time use item, if tube was not at the bottom of the ferrule you will need another compression fitting as once compressed it is not going to open up for the tubing after that.
As to the flame sense, the flame acts like a rectifier converting the AC spark into DC current flow which the ignition module detects with spark ignition.
The thermocouple type control valves use the thermocouple to generate power to energize an electromagnet inside the control valve, no pilot flame, no power to hold valve open and let gas flow through.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:23 PM   #188
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Thanks for the response. I'm going to try it out with the gas on this Tuesday, hopefully my luck continues and everything works. Also need to find a control panel box to fit all this stuff into.

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Old 07-31-2013, 02:02 AM   #189
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hooked it up to the gas and still had the problem of the pilot shutting off after it was lit, then realized that i never grounded the pilot back to the unit....did that and everything worked fine. I do need to replace the compression valve on the burner side for the pilot, for some reason it didn't get a good seal and leaks gas. Occasionally the gas coming from the compression fitting will lite up and start melting my ground wire. need to wait for the rest of my parts to come in and I can start doing a final install.
Thanks for all the help!

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Old 09-15-2013, 06:29 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue View Post
The NG orifice is doing it's job correctly, if too much gas all of the flames will be white-yellow or blue with yellow tips, all flames would be the same, not random flames with color.
The occasional orange flame is likely the oil based paint used on the burner burning off or other contaminants blowing though the inside of the burner, not over fuel. Not to worry the paint oils or contaminants will soon burn off / run out and you will get all blue flames.
To adjust the flame level you can adjust the internal regulator in the honeywell valve to limit maximum flame, unscrew the cover and back off the spring to lower the flame, then put the cover back on.
First off thanks for all the help in this thread. Great info that helped me get going really quick.

I currently have a single tier non automated setup and just completed testing of one of my HW values and ignition modules. I am running LP. This all worked great once I realized I have one Auber with a bad relay.

As a separate test to check flame size I ran one burner through the HW valve, ignition modlue and one straight through the LP gas line. As expected (I am sure I read something to this somewhere on HBT) the burner running through the HW valve was not as high as the one running straight from the LP tank.

Would tighting the regulator spring as you described above increase my flame size on LP? The difference was about an inch and a half. (clearly visible after sun down) I love the idea of the automation but hate to think I may spend more time getting up to temps.

Thanks again.

FYI - Yes I did change all the orfices and spings for use with LP. I am running Hurricanes with the LP valve.


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