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Old 07-07-2013, 08:14 PM   #161
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I think harbor freight sells a cheap/accurate water manometer.



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Old 07-10-2013, 04:12 AM   #162
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Thanks for the harbor freight tip. I actually just built a manometer though. Was pretty simple and total cost was about $5. Basically just an npt to barb adapter sized for the test port of the valve (1/8" npt if I remember correctly) and some clear vinyl tubing I had lying around. Other than that you just need an inch ruler, some water and some food coloring. I can take a pic if anyone is interested, really nothing to it.

Only tested 2 of the valves so far. The output of the first was 4" W.C exactly. The second was around 3.5" W.C. I set them both to 4" for now but I was hoping I might be able to find the recommended pressure for the NG hurricane burner orifice; anyone know?



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Old 07-10-2013, 04:22 AM   #163
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3-7" WC is recommended for natural gas. The BG-14 typically comes with high pressure orifices that will need to be drilled out or new ones purchased. I drilled mine with a 3/32" bit and thaey worked perfectly with my Honeywell gas valves. I didn't even use a drill. I just twisted the bit by hand and it went right through the soft brass.

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Old 07-10-2013, 04:25 AM   #164
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I purchased the NG orifice for the hurricane, mine aren't drilled. Was hoping someone would know the pressure rating for the NG orifice. 3-7" is quite a range. I think I'll just leave them set in the 3.5-4" w.c. range as they seem to burn quite well with that pressure.

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Old 07-10-2013, 04:40 AM   #165
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Honeywell valves are factory set at 3.5"WC, which is ideal. Range allows you to dial in the proper pressure to air mixture to obtain a perfect flame.

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Old 07-11-2013, 02:24 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by de3isit View Post
3-7" WC is recommended for natural gas. The BG-14 typically comes with high pressure orifices that will need to be drilled out or new ones purchased. I drilled mine with a 3/32" bit and thaey worked perfectly with my Honeywell gas valves. I didn't even use a drill. I just twisted the bit by hand and it went right through the soft brass.
7" is an input pressure for NG not an output. 3.5" wc is ideal for valves with ratings well above 200, 000 btuhs.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:35 AM   #167
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I am hoping someone here can help me. I am using the honeywell valves and Auber 2362. When the spark ignition is active either with a manual switch or through the PID the PV on the Auber is jumping around. Sometimes it will show EEEE. It jumps to an incorrect value and then right back to the correct value. I am assuming it is some sort of interference issue but I don't know how to fix it. Does anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

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Old 07-12-2013, 03:35 AM   #168
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I will take it you mounted the ignition modules inside the same enclosure as the Auber PID controller. As others before you have found out, the ignition modules emit quite a bit of radio frequency energy which drives the PID controller CPU crazy. The most used cure was to move the ignition module to it's own enclosure away from the primary control panel and make sure there is a wire return from the pilot body to the ignition enclosure and ignition module ground terminal to help prevent the spark current from traveling through the frame or other conductive components

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Old 07-12-2013, 10:30 AM   #169
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The ignition module is mounted on the frame. Not sure I follow "make sure there is a wire return from the pilot body to the ignition enclosure and ignition module ground terminal". Where do you attache the wire to the pilot body. All I have on that is the spark plug wire.

Thanks for the help.

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Old 07-12-2013, 10:37 AM   #170
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I am taking a new look at the diagram and see I missed the ground. I will try it today and report back.



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